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Before I would go out and spend $1700.00 on re gearing, I would seriously consider a super chip micro tuner. It made a big difference when towing my trailer and I actually get better mileage with it.
Where are you getting the figure ot $1700? A set of ring and pinion gears with install should cost around $500 depending on where you have it done.
Every post I have seen regarding gear changes on the forum have been $750.00+ per axle. I'm assuming he has a 4X4 since he lives in Canada. So he's looking at $1500.00+ based upon what everyone else has experienced.
Seems the average is around $1700.00.
Before I would go out and spend $1700.00 on re gearing, I would seriously consider a super chip micro tuner. It made a big difference when towing my trailer and I actually get better mileage with it.
Sort of goes against the rules to get more milage and more power at the same time..
More power uses more fuel! Better milage uses LESS fuel and gives less power..
Ford needs to get one of those chips and see where their engineers have gone wrong..
Big Jim
Sort of goes against the rules to get more milage and more power at the same time..
More power uses more fuel! Better milage uses LESS fuel and gives less power..
Ford needs to get one of those chips and see where their engineers have gone wrong..
Big Jim
When you have more power the engine doesn't have to work as hard to pull a load therefore getting a gain in efficiency.
I don't believe the engineers have done anything wrong. They engineered the vehicle to run on 87 octane. The chip, in towing or performance mode, requires the use of premium grade fuel.
The estimation of ~$1500 to change the gears in both axles of a 4wd truck is about right. My gearchange ran $1500 complete, including tax, labor, and parts on a '92 F350 4wd (Dana 60 front/Ford 10.25" rear).
The F150's are much cheaper. I had one changed at a local differential shop, supposed to be the best in town. Installed 3.73's for $400 out the door. $750 per axle is about right for the SD class trucks
When you have more power the engine doesn't have to work as hard to pull a load therefore getting a gain in efficiency.
I don't believe the engineers have done anything wrong. They engineered the vehicle to run on 87 octane. The chip, in towing or performance mode, requires the use of premium grade fuel.
Tony
Weeelll, yes and no! If you are referring to slapping a 454 cu in in there and getting THAT power... maybe. But if you are referring to changing the TIMING and amount of fuel to the existing engine... then No in fact hell no! Now if you change the cam lift duration and timing then you might get the engine in a different power band, but its highly unlikely you could get it more driveable with that load on it..
Those chips can only change the amount of fuel delivered and the amount of advance in the spark.. You WILL NOT get an appreciatable amount of high gear pulling power from changing your chip! Running empty and with open intake and cat back systems you will be making so much NOISE it might make you think you are doing better... But you hook up to that load and start out on the hiway and you will see a dissapointment..
GEARS is what will see an improvement in towing power.
Big Jim
I'd start with a chip or a tuner before getting into any other major mechanical upgrades. Many tuners and chips are designed to boost both HP and torque... it's the latter you're after for towing. I added a chip to my '99 V10 when I owned it and was quite happy with the increase. Chip had advertised about 25 HP and 40 ft-lbs torque. I had also added a K&N air filter (not the whole intake kit) and a throttle swirl spacer kit. No noticable gains from either of these. Suggest only change the exhaust out when it is worn out. Advertised gains there are quite small.
Another consideration before changing rear ends, you might want to check the torque curve for your motor. You could move it beyond its peak output and end up in worse shape.
If you really can't live with slowing down on hills, get a SD with a diesel ... I did, and the difference between the V10 and it are night and day on the hills. I live in Alberta too, and travel into the Rocky's quite frequently with my 12 klb 5ver. Lots of money for the truck, but mileage is better and no more Dogdes or Chevies passing up hills. I Love It!
One the newer trucks, they are using stainless steel exhaust, so it will not wear out for quite some time. The bolt ons will not add a ton of HP by themselves, but combined together, they give a bigger benefit.
Big Jim, putting one of them 454 bowties will make an ol Ford spit, buck, & wheeze and quit on the side of the road.. A 460 on the other hand....well that's a different deal all together.
muffet, All a chip can do is change the timing & durations from the computer. Torque is made from the stroke, the longer it is the more ya got. The computer (chip) can optimize (raise the level) but it can't add torque.
I use sole to raise the performance of my truck. (shoe sole)
I'm towing a 5th wheel topping out at just over 8,000 lbs with a truck like yours except RC and 3.73 (less weight and lower gears). I get by but power is an issue. I've added a cold air intake system and high performance muffler. I don't beileve the muffler gained me much, but the intake sure did. The factory intake on the 2004 F150 is restrictive beyound belief. I don't know what they were thinking.
I've been trying to convince myself to buy the Xcal 2 but the numbers just don't add up. If you figure 20 additional hp at towing rpm, that gets you a lot on flat ground but not on a hill. With my rig estimated weight of around 13,900 lbs each 2% in grade requires an additional 56 horsepower to maintain 60 mph. Tunning the engine will gain me enough power to handle perhaps 1 % grade.
That leaves lowering the gear ratio, adding a supercharger or trading to a larger truck.
The only case where an XCal would do the trick is perhaps the rare case where your TV is almost powerful enough to tow uphill under the load and the chip gives you the minor added boost you need.
Big Jim is mostly right about the limits of tunning. The thing he failed to mention, although I suspect he is aware if it, is that manufacturing engineers have to consider a quiet ride and government regulations in their designs. My rule of thumb is that a well thought out stage 1 modification can gain you between 10% and 20% depending on how efficient the factory system is.
I've adopted the approach of slowing down and enjoying the ride. I top most long or steep grades at better than 50 and frequently do better than a lot of other TV's so what's the big deal?
Enjoy.
Last edited by MotorPsycho; Jun 20, 2005 at 07:59 AM.
When I got my 85 F-250 earlier this year it was bone stock, 460/C6 with 109k miles on it. It got 7mpg. I swapped from 3:55 gears to 4:10 gears, added a K&N filter, and removed the muffler. I now get 10+ mpg towing or not. I increased my tire size about 1.5" as well. My freeway RPM at 70mph only increased 200-300rpm's. I have a lot more oomph for towing, and my mileage hasn't suffered at all. The regearing cost me $1450, for the gears, two master rebuild kits, 3 new u-joints in the front axle, new carrier bearing and labor. I have the D50/10.25 axles. A gear change will make a big improvement, my truck still slows on hills, but may only slow to 65 instead of 50.