air bypass valve
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Joined: Nov 1999
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air bypass valve
Just how important is the air bypass valve. My 90 F150 300-I6 keeps error coding for the air bypass valve. Manual says solenoid terminals should have 7-13 volts when tested with v-meter. Mine has zilch. Inside is all clean, thanks to PG's advice in earlier posts about cleaning the throttle bores and this valve assembly. As is, truck has no real performance problems but in-town mpg could be better. What does this valve do exactly?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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air bypass valve
So, did that scrub down cure the idle problems ? It works every time for me! About the voltage to the solenoid, if you hook a meter across the terms with the key on and harness still plugged,you won't see voltage 'cause the solenoid is "suckin' it up",so you see no voltage.You have to go from the wire to ground to see voltage or even voltage drop.The bypass is important,it is what keeps the engine from stallin' when you decelerate rapidly,as well as make minute changes in idle speed according to P/S and A/C load at idle.For better mileage in town, try boosting the timing a little 'til you get clatter on heavy acceleration,then back off a little.
Phillip
Phillip
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air bypass valve
Thanks, PG. I misspoke in earlier post. The voltage to the solenoid is correct. I meant to say that manual says solenoid terminals should have 7 to 13 ohms of resistance without connector on. Mine has zilch. Is the solenoid toast? I'm checking resistance by pulling the connector and putting meter probes on the terminal. No ohms either way. I'll try advancing the timing a little. I assume you mean pull the spout plug and then advance? Thanks again.
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air bypass valve
Oh, ok, ohms. Are you sure your meter is set to the 1 ohm range ? If you absolutely can't get any continuity,on any range,then it's safe to say the solenoid has gone open. Verify against another before purchase.For the timing, yes without the spout about 2 degrees at a time which I believe is a half of a notch.
Phillip
Phillip
