Carb question
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2001
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Carb question
I've been working on my '55 f250 w/ 239 V-8 all original and stock. See the pictures in my gallery.
I pulled the gas tank and had a radiator shop clean it, they would not seal it due to some baffles in the tank. I replaced the fuel pump and blew out the steel lines between the tank and fuel pump. I inspected the rubber line between the steel line and fuel pump and it looks ok. It's been sitting for many years with gas in it.
The truck would not start, now with the new fuel pump it starts great but has a lot of vibration and stumbles as I accelerate. I know nothing about carbs. Am I better to have this one cleaned and rebuilt or buy a new one from LMC truck? What should I expect to pay to have a carb rebuilt? Is this something a beginner can tackle?
I pulled the gas tank and had a radiator shop clean it, they would not seal it due to some baffles in the tank. I replaced the fuel pump and blew out the steel lines between the tank and fuel pump. I inspected the rubber line between the steel line and fuel pump and it looks ok. It's been sitting for many years with gas in it.
The truck would not start, now with the new fuel pump it starts great but has a lot of vibration and stumbles as I accelerate. I know nothing about carbs. Am I better to have this one cleaned and rebuilt or buy a new one from LMC truck? What should I expect to pay to have a carb rebuilt? Is this something a beginner can tackle?
Elder User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 736
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From: Owasso Oklahoma USA
The carb is very simple to rebuild with a kit. Another thing to check is the vacuum advance on the distributor. My 239 hesitated on accelleration until I replaced the vacuum advance on the distributor. I got it from Scaremento Ford. This distributor relies on vacuum advance alone and is called the Loadamatic. If you can, get a 1957 or later Y block distributor that has vacuum and mechanical advance for a better performing engine.
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I gave up and took it down to a local mechanic. It would only go 25-30 mph. He was able to get into it and found 3 cylinders with no compression and one cylinder with no spark. I had 4 bent rods causing the valves to stay open causing the loss of compression. The mechanic was great and it only cost me 200 bucks! She drives real nice now and has a real smooth engine. 
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
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From: Michigan
Had a similar problem on my stock 55-- 239. Traced the problem to the carb float needle valve. Some dirt and fine steel shavings had lodged in the needle valve seat and caused the motor to stall and buck, etc. Cleaned out the valve and bingo, problem solved.
Fred
Fred
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