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Posted earlier about the air bypass on my 90 F150 300-I6. Truck had been returning a 22 or 23 error code under engine self test and not getting really good mileage. Tracked this to a dead solenoid on the air bypass valve, parts houses call it the idle air controller. Replaced it Sat. and what a difference, smoother running, lower idle and I can tell already better mileage. This truck was running poorly when I bought it back in Aug. Since, I have spent about $250 on general maintenance, tune up and new ACT,ECT, O2,MAF/MAP sensors and air bypass valve. If your 300-I6 is sick, learn how to do the engine self test, track the codes to their source (may be one of these sensors), and replace if necessary. It will put new life in your stump puller engine!
Jim,
You can get info on how to run the engine self test at: <a href="http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html">http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html</a>
Isn't hard to do and only requires a fairly common jumper wire to do it. You basically get your computer to output engine error codes through the check engine idiot light on the dash. A Haynes or Chilton's manual (about $20 each) also is a good investment. If you're getting 15 to 20 mpg in town and down the road your I-6 is tuned well and running right.
Jim,
Forgot to mention...read Phillip Guidry's posts about cleaning the air intake throttle body tubes and air bypass valve. This is real easy to do on a 300 I-6 and improves performance greatly. If you can't find that post, go to the top of the page and click the search button, follow directions, and search for phillip guidry or just guidry. If you need help on this, post back or email me and I'll describe how to do it on a 6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.