same ole Ranger Problem
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same ole Ranger Problem
hi folks, sorry to be a pain, but my 92 Ranger still misfires at all speeds. When I was last here, it was suggested to replace fuel filter which I did with no change. I finally took it to a shop with the computer check equipment two weeks ago. I was charged $120 for the checkup, was told no trouble codes come up, all the sensors are fine, fuel pressure is good & my problem is it needs a valve job.
I'm not the smartest, most mechanically inclined guy in the world, but early in my self diagnosis of my problem, I checked compression and all 6 cylinders are 140-145 lbs. so I can't buy the valve job. I did recheck after I giot the truck home and again all 6 cylinders are 140-145 lbs.
Finally I keep going back in my mind it's the MAF, probably since I have a friend that had a Nisson with a bad MAF and he said the problmes were similar.
I disconnected the wire to the MAF & it makes no difference in the way it runs, in fact it runs with the MAF removed ( as poorly as it does with it connected ) Is it possible the MAF can be bad and not show up as bad code ?
any help greatly appreciated.
thanks.
wayne
I'm not the smartest, most mechanically inclined guy in the world, but early in my self diagnosis of my problem, I checked compression and all 6 cylinders are 140-145 lbs. so I can't buy the valve job. I did recheck after I giot the truck home and again all 6 cylinders are 140-145 lbs.
Finally I keep going back in my mind it's the MAF, probably since I have a friend that had a Nisson with a bad MAF and he said the problmes were similar.
I disconnected the wire to the MAF & it makes no difference in the way it runs, in fact it runs with the MAF removed ( as poorly as it does with it connected ) Is it possible the MAF can be bad and not show up as bad code ?
any help greatly appreciated.
thanks.
wayne
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does it seem like the engine is running lean? because that is one of the symptoms of a bad MAF, although I would think that it would throw an O2 code or something. maybe not. did you pull codes after you disconnected the MAF? are you going by what the mechanics said or did you actually watch them run the tests?
Last edited by el conquistador; Jun 5, 2005 at 11:14 PM.
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From: SW Va
I'm of the same mind as El Conquistadr, seems to me there are likely some more computer codes in there, if the MAF being disconected din't make any difference in how it ran.
Why not run this ride by your favorite autoparts store, like Advance Auto, AutoZone, ect, for a NO COST, second opinion, computer scan.
Then post ALL the codes they find.
If you don't want to do that, look in the second red, "Read First" Technical thread at the top of this forum, in there you'll find instructions on how to pull the computer codes yourself.
If you got NO response from disconnecting the MAF sensor, it shure sounds loke something is amiss in that circuit or sensor.
Also in te technical stickey, you'll find instructions on how to clean & test your MAF sensor.
You can carefully clean it with a good spray throttle body or electrical contact cleaner.
Let us know what you find.
Why not run this ride by your favorite autoparts store, like Advance Auto, AutoZone, ect, for a NO COST, second opinion, computer scan.
Then post ALL the codes they find.
If you don't want to do that, look in the second red, "Read First" Technical thread at the top of this forum, in there you'll find instructions on how to pull the computer codes yourself.
If you got NO response from disconnecting the MAF sensor, it shure sounds loke something is amiss in that circuit or sensor.
Also in te technical stickey, you'll find instructions on how to clean & test your MAF sensor.
You can carefully clean it with a good spray throttle body or electrical contact cleaner.
Let us know what you find.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
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From: Eastern WA
My most frequent finding when there is occasional misfire while cruising at a steady speed is a lean condition. Thoroughly check for vacuum leaks, including at the the lower intake/heads (4.0L engine). Realize that with a leaky intake you could have a leak on just one cyl; the remaining cyls will produce a normal condition and the O2 sensor may not see a problem on the bank with the leaky intake. The MAF is suspect; usually a dirty MAF results in a lean condition and engine knock under acceleration or when climbing a hill, especially on a warm/hot day. BTW, spark plugs that have been subject to someone cleaning the intake and/or decarboning the engine can have a conductive coating that weakens the spark and causes erratic missfire. Wise people spray that stuff in and follow up with new spark plugs.
Does this problem happen only when hot or only when cold, or both? If only when cold, I'd have the plug wires on my "suspect" list. The general tipoff on a plug wire going bad is random missfire when cold that progressively get's worse over time/miles.
Does this problem happen only when hot or only when cold, or both? If only when cold, I'd have the plug wires on my "suspect" list. The general tipoff on a plug wire going bad is random missfire when cold that progressively get's worse over time/miles.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Jun 6, 2005 at 01:28 PM.
Post Fiend
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From: Eastern WA
Acutally, arching will usually only be seen in extreme cases, such as a burnt wire. The insulation for the last 20 or so years is soooooo darn good that the carbon fiber inside develops a break; this break burns over time increasing the gap between the ends of the remaining fiber and the arc distance. You can't see this, but testing with an ohm meter will reveal the condition. Never pronounce a wire good simply because no visable arching can be seen, well, unless it's the old 7mm plug wires from the 60's (non electronic/HEI).
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thanks guys for the help. I called my local Autozone & they said they can't pull codes on anything 96 or older ??? That sound right ??
Anyway, I have a cheap code scanner, the one with the blinking lights & early on, I pulled codes myself & nothing came up.
I have already replaced plugs, plug wires, rotor, coil, dist. cap & fuel filter.
I've cleaned the MAF & throttle body with cleaner.
I'm feeling I got ripped by the shop as I don't think I need a valve job.
I guess I'm going to stick my neck out & buy a new MAF to see. ( and incur the wrath of my wife ! ) She wants me to sell it for what I can get, but dang it's a nice old Ranger.
It's my "knock around" vehicle so I'm not pressed to get it running any time soon. My main car is a 91 5.0 Mustang. It's just that I'm 53 years old & with just basic mechanical skills, I have never had to put a vehicle in the shop for a mechanical repair. I always buy Fords & I guess I'm lucky. I sure hate to let this thing beat me. I guess I need to buy something even older with no electronics...
thanks again, you guys have been good to me.
Wayne
Anyway, I have a cheap code scanner, the one with the blinking lights & early on, I pulled codes myself & nothing came up.
I have already replaced plugs, plug wires, rotor, coil, dist. cap & fuel filter.
I've cleaned the MAF & throttle body with cleaner.
I'm feeling I got ripped by the shop as I don't think I need a valve job.
I guess I'm going to stick my neck out & buy a new MAF to see. ( and incur the wrath of my wife ! ) She wants me to sell it for what I can get, but dang it's a nice old Ranger.
It's my "knock around" vehicle so I'm not pressed to get it running any time soon. My main car is a 91 5.0 Mustang. It's just that I'm 53 years old & with just basic mechanical skills, I have never had to put a vehicle in the shop for a mechanical repair. I always buy Fords & I guess I'm lucky. I sure hate to let this thing beat me. I guess I need to buy something even older with no electronics...
thanks again, you guys have been good to me.
Wayne
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
Originally Posted by el conquistador
In addition to what billy said,
the telltale sign of a bad plug wire is arcing. wait until it is dark outside, crank up the engine and look under the hood for a plug wire arcing to the block.
the telltale sign of a bad plug wire is arcing. wait until it is dark outside, crank up the engine and look under the hood for a plug wire arcing to the block.
Also, grab the wiring harnesses and gently move them around with the engine running. Don't yank them, just pull gently but enough to move them. Listen for changes in engine speed. Had this problem on my daughter and it turned ou the be some chaffed wires. Patched wires and problem was fixed.
Ran like crap and sometimes would not start at all. When it threw a code it was always something bogus that had nothing to do with the real problem. Since the codes were false, the dealer and most shops were absolutely useless in trying to get it fixed. It won't beat you. You are smarter than it is. Good lcuk and let us know what happens.
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