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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 02:46 AM
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pull engine

Just a quick question. Do you have to pull the engine to replace the cam? This is a 351m.
 

Last edited by red75; Jun 4, 2005 at 02:48 AM. Reason: no engine identifaction
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 04:19 AM
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No, just the radiator, grille, intake, etc. There may be an R&R process listed in your repair manual.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 09:03 AM
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Red,
Just did this two weekends ago onmy 400, and Eric is correct - you don't have to pull the engine. Working in the engine bay is a PITA, especially on a truck lifted as much as mine. If you have A/C, the new cam will be a tight squeeze to sneak in front of the coil, but it will fit. The biggest trouble I had was getting the timing cover back in place. I had to loosen and lower my oil pan to get the front seal to fit correctly. Otherwise, it's very straightforward. Check your distributor drive gear for wear while it's out, and new plug wires and plugs can't hurt.

Good Luck,
Ernie
 
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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Thanks for the information. I don't have a A/C so thats one problem I won't have. GreenSubmarine what cam did you put in and how long did it take?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2005 | 11:45 AM
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I put in a Comp XE 262, and got the K kit because I needed springs and lifters anyway. Mine took longer than yours should because I swapped my heads out for a set of 58cc Aussies at the same time. From start to finish, which means crank up and finalize the timing it took me 10 hours. That also includes lunch, one trip to the parts house, cleaning and prepping everything,about a dozen beers, and stopping a couple of times to cool off. I live in central FL and it was hot - I did it in the driveway. All the climbing in and out and over things took a lot of time as well, but this is an easy task if you're prepared. The Sub sounds better now and seems to pull hard through about 5500. I'll know better when I get it in some deep mud . If you have any specific questions, feel free to pm me and I'll give you my phone #.

Good Luck,
Ernie
 
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