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Lemme see if I finally got thes right: lower r&p gears have higher numbers; i.e.: a 3.08:1 is HIGHER than a 3.27:1 ratio. Right? I sure hope so... Also, with lower gears & slightly bigger tires (33's), is there a big penalty on gas mileage? Seems like there would be some difference, with the engine turning more times for the truck going the same distance. Well, at least it might make the OD (E4OD tranny) more than a nuisance going uphill!! Any siggestions for a good rearend setup? 1990 F150 2WD, 351W, E4OD with a currently stock rearend (whatever that is.. 3.08?)
Bigger (taller) tires makes a gear ratio seem higher (or lower in number). But yes, the rest of your post was correct. Gas milage will change some but it just depends on how much difference you want. It depends on what you want. I just changed from a 3.00 to a 373 and I noticed a big improvement in accelaration. But I lost about 3 mpg. With the old gears I was turning 2000 rpms at 60 and now Im at 2600 at 60. I dont have overdrive but I wish I did. Anyway post back what you use the truck for and what you want it to do.
Really all I use the truck for is daily driving, with a good portion of it uphill. I would like a little quicker acceleration from a start, and to get rid of the sluggishness it seems to have going uphill, especially in OD. I usually leave off OD going uphill, and even in 3rd is still downshifts to 2nd, even though I'm going around 55-60 mph (4000-4500 rpms in 2nd!!)
Yeah, Id say you should probely go with a lower gear. Just remember that the higher in number you go the more it will affect gas milage. Im happy with the 373 that I have but that doesnt mean you should go that low. I think you'd be fine with the 373 but it just depends on you. I noticed a dramatic improvment in mine at all rpms. It just sounds like my tranny should shift again but its already in third. But anything between the 308 that you have now to a 373 will give you an improvment. It just depends on how much you want it to change. But I wouldnt go any higher in number than the 373. Good luck and I hope it works out for you.
If you get a set ordered from somewhere, make sure you specify that you want gears for everyday driving not the racing gears. The racing gears get to hot real quick and are only good for about 50 miles at a time. Also, youll need to get the backlash and pinion depth set by a pro. Its not something anyone can do so figure that into your price.
i have an 85 f-150 with a 351 4v, 3.50 gears with a 9 inch in the rear aand a dana 44 front, i got 33 1250 mudkings and a 4 inch lift, about how much would it run to change to a set of 4.10 gears? or is it 4.11? i would want this done in a shop...thnx
They told me that if they had to take out the drop out (or pumpkin or center section) or whatever you want to call it that it would cost me 200 dollars for them to do it all but if I took out the center section and brought it to them that it would cost 80 bucks. I took mine out for them and it was pretty easy but then I needed to get all the bearings changed so it ended up costing me about 500 dollars for everything. I had mine done at a performance shop so it would probaly be cheaper somewhere else. But thats what I paid and IM very happy I did.
In Case you wanted to know, there is an equation that will help you with this.
(axle)(Trans)(T-Case)(MPH)(336)/ = RPM
(Tire Diameter)
This will help tell you where your truck is going to be running with all kinds of setups. It is easiest in drive/fourth gear because you can drop the trans and t-case ratio's. Find the tire diameter by finding the rolling radius, and multipling it by 2 because diameter alone is too big, and your rpms will be lower than it actually is. Just measure from the center of the hub to the ground and multiply that by 2. For reference, I have a stock F150 (235/75R15) and 3.08 gears, and am at 2000 rpm at 55 mph.
Also, please let me know what you find out about the price. Most specifically with the front Dana 44. I am doing this, and will myself if it isn't cheap. I am sure you have checked this, but you can buy complete center sections for the 9", and all I think you need to do is bolt it into the housing. I believe the carrier is already all assembled.
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