key things that should be noted
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Evanston, WY
Originally Posted by debestuss
Explain this whole stretching rod bolts thing. What I'm gathering here is that having them torqued to spec isn't enough?
-Scouder
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 992
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Originally Posted by FalconStng
Get Steve Christ's book before you start. "How to Build Big Block Fords". If you pick up just one thing that you would've messed up then it'll be worth it. As for me, it saved me on the cam plug that Six spoke of. The machine shop I used put it in backwards...I wouldn't have known myself had I not picked the book up and read it.
does this book have any spec for the FE motors?
Does anyone have any specs for a 390?
like clearances and trq specs and thing such as that.
Last edited by bshackelford711; Jun 3, 2005 at 11:52 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 669
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All that and more. There are casting listings so you can identify what you have. It also has very detailed disassembly/reassembly instructions. I've built many engines over the years...though never an FE before. I almost didn't buy the book because of my past experience. I'm really glad I bought it...it's chock full of info.
Tracy
Tracy
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
After you've destroyed a 428 block, cam and couple of rods, look at the money you saved without running ARP bolts. Done that in the 70's, never again unless your stupid, rich or never go over 4,000 rpm's. Just my financial way of thinking.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 65
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix, Az
Hey Beemer
Try to get a "coating" of lubricant on all surfaces. The metal, being porous will only retain a "boundry layer" after all. The rest drains off. So putting on lots of it is really messy and not efficient.
Stay away from the WD40 on any surface that you want to have or retain a lubricating, non-friction action as the WD40 will wash away or out all or most of your lubricants including the grease in sealed bearings.
I once lubed the aileron bearings in an F27 Fairchild aircraft as the sealed bearings were a little stiff. It really freed them up nicely, but the inspector who looked at my sign-off, wrote it up and we had to remove both ailerons and replace all of the bearings and then had to perform a test flight of the aircraft. Expensive and it nearly cost me my airline career very early on.
WD40 is good for many things, rust inhibitor or prohibitor and lubricant it is NOT.
Try to get a "coating" of lubricant on all surfaces. The metal, being porous will only retain a "boundry layer" after all. The rest drains off. So putting on lots of it is really messy and not efficient.
Stay away from the WD40 on any surface that you want to have or retain a lubricating, non-friction action as the WD40 will wash away or out all or most of your lubricants including the grease in sealed bearings.
I once lubed the aileron bearings in an F27 Fairchild aircraft as the sealed bearings were a little stiff. It really freed them up nicely, but the inspector who looked at my sign-off, wrote it up and we had to remove both ailerons and replace all of the bearings and then had to perform a test flight of the aircraft. Expensive and it nearly cost me my airline career very early on.
WD40 is good for many things, rust inhibitor or prohibitor and lubricant it is NOT.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 80
From: tujunga, calif
like most engine failures, the problem is the driver not the parts, used in the operation range they were designed for they don't fail
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 375
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From: East TN.
Originally Posted by xfordman
'Falcon......from what I hear that assbackwards cam plug thing is common, but you would have caught it anyway because the cam wouldn't have gone all the way in, it would hit the plug.
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