Bear I need some help
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Bear I need some help
ok I lowered my timing to 12*btdc, with 20* mech for a total of 32* I am running the vacum advance, I changed the 50cc pump in my Holley 2300 500cmf carb to a 30cc, and changed my power valve from a 10.5 to a 6.5.
After running for a week I check my plugs and they are bone white not tan like befor.what do i do now ? go to larger main jets ? Im running 76's now 2 sizes larger than the 74's that came with it from the factory. Or go to a 7.5 to 8.5 power valve or both? im running 89 oct fuel, but it apears to be on the lean side now after the changes.
thanks
After running for a week I check my plugs and they are bone white not tan like befor.what do i do now ? go to larger main jets ? Im running 76's now 2 sizes larger than the 74's that came with it from the factory. Or go to a 7.5 to 8.5 power valve or both? im running 89 oct fuel, but it apears to be on the lean side now after the changes.
thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
Idle mixture screws set how many turns out? Float level where (at bottom of sight hole or where)? Did you check the plugs after a period of idling or after doing a highway run and just shutting the engine off and coasting to a stop?
Last edited by Bear 45/70; May 31, 2005 at 12:27 PM.
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I havent counted the turns out i know their both the same to keep it ballanced, The fuel level is adj to the bottom of the site hole and set dso if you bounce the frount end hard you get a splash of fuel out the hole but not if it is sitting. this is after about 5 days of running, freeway and trafic, I had checked them shortly after coming off the freeway. and a drive of about 10 miles at 65mph.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
Float level should be just so the fuel leaks over the lower edge of the sight hole. Should be set with the engine running. You shouldn't have to bounce anything. A low setting can cause a lean condition. Mixture screws should be 1 1/2 turns out plus or minus about 1/4 turn. To far in can also cause a lean condition also. Does the engine ping on hard acceleration?
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no ping whatsoever, Accelerates fine Idle is smooth and no hesatation when taking off from a stop. all in all it runs good, but The whiteness of the plugs conserns me, every other car Iv ever owned eather ran a dark tan or light to dark brown,white always brings up pictures of burnt valves and holes in pistons in my mind. Maby i should invest in a OX gauge and sensor. I cant seem to get this one right 
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
That's is a too warm a plug with todays junk fuel, I know that's what is recommended, but it is also what they sell. Try an AR32. The car FE engines came with this heat range in them originally and the emmissions world dropped the oringinal standard plug from the line up. Champion RF9YC is the cross and the originial truck number was RF10C, but I realized a consistant 1-2 mpg increase and a better preformance in my '68 390 4V by going to the extended tip plugs (the Y in the part number). With todays fuel cold plugs are needed to counter all the extra oxygen additives in the fuel for our pre-emmission designed engines.
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well I called my local napa parts house and tried to get the Ar32's. they didnt have any in any of their pacific coast stores, they could order some from Denver, they told me they were special "Raceing" plugs, would it be poss to go down a heat range on the regular aurolite plugs, and if so how many ranges should I go down just one or maby two ? or should I try and se if they have the champoin RFY9C plugs ?
Last edited by jav409; Jun 1, 2005 at 09:23 PM.
Post Fiend
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From: Union, Washington
I have always been partial to Champion plugs.I still run the RF9YC's in my '68 390 and I won my Championships and set my records racing boat with them. And I know for a fact they still make the RF9YC's. If they claim they can't get them I know a distributor in Seattle with them.