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What rod is good to use when welding a verticle weld and a bottom weld? I have been using 6011 and 6013 but am new to this so any input would be great.
Same rod- usually, the base metal type determines the welding rod type. I usually use 7018 for mild steel, very strong weld, but the rods need to be dried and stored in an oven to prevent hydrogen inclusion in the weld.
It depends on the material you are welding on. For rusty metal with a lot of paint, grease, and oil; I like to use 6011. For clean metal I would use 6010 or 6013, these rods are hot burning deep digging electrodes. This makes them good for vertical and upside down welding operations. 7018 would probably work okay if you are working with clean metal.
I assume your using AC?
I like 7014 for general welding on clean metal and 7024 for flat welds
7018 is good, but you need the kind for AC and you have to keep them sealed.
They usually have the optimum amperage listed on the package. Burn a few rods and play whit your machine's settings to se ewhan you get the best results with.
a lot has to do with your heat settings also. 6013 will weld at about any heat setting. a 7018 needs more heat to weld with. the 7014 is a good rod. good penetration and a clean weld. they are also more difficult to weld with than say a 6013.
verticle as in vertice postion or you are running a verticle bead ?
Bottom weld? OVERHEAD ???
if in verticle postion (not flat) it's best to run DC reverse same for overhead. but you can learn to weld on AC in all postions and still run good beads. i have learnt how because i dont own a DC welder.
for DC i noramlly run 7018's but dont weld on DC very mcuh at all so
For AC if your metal is clean i would suggest 6013 rods as they are very easy to weld with.
for dirty metal run 6011's because they will burn through paint,rust,grease and just about anything. but they are harder to run than 6013's
Hey I would recomend that if u have a dc weldin machine use some 6010 1/8'' electrodes. they burn in rusty dirty metal and are a fast freeze rod. burns lots like the 6011 do. The 6013 are more for flat welds not over head type welds. I weld pipe and we use the 6010 and 7018 and run em on a DC+ machine. they both clean easily with a wirecup brush on a small grinder/sander.
I assume your using AC?
7018 is good, but you need the kind for AC and you have to keep them sealed.
7018 electrodes for AC vs DC is an old "wives tale". The manufacturers of these electrodes do not sell 2 versions. The same electrode can be used AC or DC+(reverse polarity). 7018 on DC-(straight polarity) doesn't weld very well. If using AC, you run the amperage up higher for the same size electrode. Try this link for more info. Welding Rods
7018 electrodes for AC vs DC is an old "wives tale". The manufacturers of these electrodes do not sell 2 versions. The same electrode can be used AC or DC+(reverse polarity). 7018 on DC-(straight polarity) doesn't weld very well. If using AC, you run the amperage up higher for the same size electrode. Try this link for more info. Welding Rods
Whats the big deal?
There isnt any difference in price (at least not here), so why not get the kind labeled ac if you have an Ac only welder?
Whats the big deal?
There isnt any difference in price (at least not here), so why not get the kind labeled ac if you have an Ac only welder?
Actually, it is not a big deal. If you purchase from a retailer that sells the same exact item, one marked AC, and the other marked DC, for the same price, then it is a matter of individual choice. But my point is: 7018 is a specification for an electrode with a specific chemical composition, and specific "as welded" characteristics. The electrode works with either AC or DC welding machines with equal results.
And to get back to the original question posed, I would not recommend 7018 electrodes for an inexperienced welder with an AC machine.
Last edited by DetailerDave; Jun 18, 2005 at 07:53 PM.
6011 and 6013 are good "drag stick" rods. That is, the gap need not be maintained which can help with out of position welding. 7018 is more susceptible to maintaining a 1/16 gap which can make it better in the hands of the more experienced welder for out of position. The 6011 and 6013 is good for "dragging' the molten puddle in the steel.
Thanks for the info guys. I am currently welding with a gas powered AC/Dc unit ( using AC, haven't found out if DC works yet). I guess that it's good that I am using the 6011 and 6013 since I am some what new to using the stick. I'm not too bad with a mig but I guess just about anyone can weld with a mig.
Actually, 7018 and 7018AC ARE different. I welded with both the same day last weekend (ran out of regular 7018, used the 7018AC I bought by accident at the same time), both types were heated the same, same amperage, same machine, but the AC had NO penetration, massive porosity problems, and tons of spatter on DC. I switched to AC, and the problems stopped.
The difference isn't in the filler material, it's in the flux.
I stand corrected. The wonders of modern technology will never cease to amaze me. I burned my last certified weld in the early 90's. In my personal experience, I have found that different brands of electrodes weld very different. Lincoln LH-70 runs very smooth, AC or DC+, where Atom Arc (branded) E7018 electrodes ran with a lot of spatter either AC or DC+. And I was required to use the Atom Arc cr*p on a nuke power plant job.
I ran a cross a brand name of "Kobe" lo-hi years ago. The 1/8 inch rods were about 6 inches longer than typical Lincoln, Hobart, or other major brand electrodes. I had to use a telescope to see the arc, it was so far away, lol.
hey detail dave...I have never had such bad weld rods as i was given in a nuclear job....That impressed me with the difference in rods that are all meeting the same specs! Lincoln 7018 1/8 rods do fine for me with rust, and have put in x-rayed/job cert. welds in the snow...go figure, what luck... my advise is try different types,,different manufactures...holds true for me when I buy my mig wire...some is just easyer...have fun
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