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Old May 29, 2005 | 04:33 AM
  #1  
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Dyno numbers

Anyone who has dynoed there inline, plz post your mods and numbers. Also post your tire size and gear ratio and whether or not the number is corrected for drivetrain loss, or is at the flywheel.

I used a calculator, and by best guestimate on my weight (6100 pounds, 93 flareside 4X4) im putting 200 to the wheels, im going to get it dynoed next week to see what it is for sure.

I want to figure out if I can get to 220 HP without doing anykind of forced induction, or headwork, that way slapping on a clifford head, and a 6-7 pound supercharger will put me close to, well lets do the theoretical, what everyone wants to hear math. 220, 60 % is 136, lets say 350, with a good intercooler and water injection, 6 psi will bump it up to about 490 HP. If this clifford head is really as good as they say, then watch out, the inline might just be back in action. But i really dont even want to see clifford make it, hes taking way to much into pocket, Im tempted to take the head to a machine shop and giving him 600-700 $ and say, PORT THE HELL OUT OF IT.

Would a decent cam, totally unresrictive exhaust, a offy dual port intake manifold, a 4 bbl carb, MSD ignition system, and some equal leght, dual headers get me to 200-220, or am i more than likely looking at 160-180?

Im not trying to start another add more power topic, Im just trying to get some solid answers. Ive done mods, but before I can dyno it, i have no idea of telling if Ive barely gotten back to the stock quoted HP rating but at the wheels, or Im actually putting down some good numbers.
 
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Old May 29, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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DT 466Man's Avatar
DT 466Man
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a stock 300 ain't putting 200 to the wheels. your feeling all that torque.

These motors are alot like the truck motors from the 40's and 50's meaning not hp all torque. A stock EFI makes 145 so i would guess 120 or so at the wheels.

The only mod to my truck is a cat delete and a RV cam. With 4.10 gears it really hauls not fast but it can accelerate pretty quick and pull the pass. front wheel up a little if i stomp on it from a stop light.

DT
 
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Old May 29, 2005 | 11:37 AM
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BigBlockCapri460
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From: ohio
stock hp

120 hp
220 tq
stock 96
 
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Old May 29, 2005 | 09:05 PM
  #4  
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Gerry Lutz Jr.
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You two must have miss read or not all the way read his message. what he said was:

Would a decent cam, totally unresrictive exhaust, a offy dual port intake manifold, a 4 bbl carb, MSD ignition system, and some equal length dual headers get me to 200-220, or am i more than likely looking at 160-180?

As for a answer my best guess is 180-190hp to the wheels..... Without head work the manifold and exhaust won't help as much. Can only blow so hard through a straw if you know what i'm trying to say.
 
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Old May 29, 2005 | 09:32 PM
  #5  
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BigBlockCapri460
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From: ohio
ok how is this
stock cam
m s d
not headers but good flowing exhaust
turbo 7# boost
and tuning
240 hp
3 something tq
turbo=bigger straw
 
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Old May 30, 2005 | 10:54 PM
  #6  
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DT 466Man, can you seriously get the front wheel up a little bit from a stoplight? That's awesome! I sure wish i didn't live at 6500ft. and have 85 octane gas. Back in Missouri, i could smoke one tire coming out of a corner uphill for about 100 ft. Well maybe more, but i didn't want to throw a rod or anything. Never get a wheel off the ground though.
 
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Old May 31, 2005 | 12:21 PM
  #7  
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6100 lbs for a 4x4 Flareside? Where was that weight measured? A truck stop? My truck weighs about 4200 lbs with two people and about half fuel. I don't think the 4x4 hardware is going to add 2000 lbs. You'll be doing good to get 120-125 at the wheels in stock trim.

Search for dyno numbers, there have been some charts posted recently.

I'd pay money to see a 300 yank a truck's right front off the ground. I'm a bit skeptical of this claim to say the least.
 
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Old May 31, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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DT 466Man
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Not off the ground guys come on.. I wish it would.
It will yank the front end up a good bit but not lift the wheel off the ground. Didn't mean to make it sound like it would pick the wheel up.

More like a loaded semi taking off how the torque shoves the front end up in the air on one end and down on the other.

My 85' i guestimate it weighs around 4500lbs.

DT
 

Last edited by DT 466Man; May 31, 2005 at 01:32 PM.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 08:25 PM
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F150, 1986, 4.9l + E4OD tranny + T-Case BW1356 Electronic Shift + Dana 44 IFS at front, 117 inch wheel base, dual fuel tanks weights about 4000 - 4100Lbs
 
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:26 AM
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hmm, my weight guestimate may be off, I do want to get it weighed though. Im thinking that rather than give cliff any money, im going to spend some cash and just tell a shop to port the hell out of the head. Ive heard what keeps these motors from revving like a normal motor is that you get much above 5-5500 RPMs and you will throw a rod. Is there anyone that makes a high performance rod for this motor? Id be willing to pay like 500-600 $ for rods if it would allow a 6K rev without fearing breaking things.

I dont know, but i really want to start messing with the truck again, I bought a VW bug to race, but man I love my truck.
Gonna look into finding another block. From there its off to the machine shop with a months worth of paychecks. Once it gets back, its time to save. Im guessing there will prolly be a grand to 1500$ in the shortblock, then Ill dump a good 500-600 into the heads. I think a resonable goal would be 250 HP and 400 ft lbs of torque, and that might be obtained without forced induction. If i go forced, i would like somewhere around 300-325 HP, and 400 ft-lbs (I DONT WANT ANYMORE TQQQ!!!!!!!). If i can get the motor built right, so that it has 200-220 HP with headwork, cam, and all that other stuff, 7 lbs of boost intercooled will allow me to hit 300 HP.

Yea so it all sounds good on paper right?
Well Im trying....
 
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 06:41 AM
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My F250 weighed right at 5300# with two people and a little miscellaneous junk in the bed.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:16 PM
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I just pulled my 94 F150 2wd styleside(I6 of course) across the scales on Sat. 4400lb unloaded with 2 people(340lb) and about 1/16th of a tank fuel. This was the city dump scale. So it was a certified 4060 lbs, empty weight.--Ryan
 
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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The problem with "certified" scales is that they are often certified to be within 2% of their full scale reading. If it's meant to weigh 80k lbs (most go at least that high) that means it is only within 1600 lbs at any weight. The best place to weigh your truck is at a drag strip where they are only meant to weigh about 5000 lbs. You might have to do the front and rear separately, but you will get a better number.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:25 PM
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Ahh. Did not know that. Nevertheless, it seemed like a reasonable number to me, and I doubt it was off by over 1000 pounds. But I see what you mean, legally it COULD be off by that much.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:34 PM
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Would a decent cam, totally unresrictive exhaust, a offy dual port intake manifold, a 4 bbl carb, MSD ignition system, and some equal leght, dual headers get me to 200-220, or am i more than likely looking at 160-180?


Mostly likely 180 hp, more inportant you'ld gain some serious torque. I'll guess around 300lbs. Are you thinking about bumping up the CR?
 
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