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I'm shopping for a car trailer -open or closed and am entertaining the possibility of building my own (open). No, I am not a welder nor have the equipment. That would be hired out or done by me after much (and I mean alot of) practice. I have seen articles on do-it-yourself projects but those seem to be for experienced welders.
I have done a great deal of looking around for new and used. Used trailers are treated like family heirlooms. People have an overinflated value of their worth. New is $$$$!
If you don't already have welding experience and have all the shop equipment to make it happen, I wouldn't take on a trailer building project. If you want to learn to weld, buy a used machine and practice on simple small projects first.
I've work in a tralier and RV shop..... we can't buy the steel to build a trailer as cheaply as we can go up the street and buy the same trailer from a company who buy matierial by the trainload, let alone pay the labor to build it.
Or buy the trailer used. Er, pre-owned. Why pay for the new-to-used depreciation? I agree: buy, don't build. But consider non-new to keep the cost down.
I traded a boat for a used home-built flatbed, 17' deck with a 3' dovetail, and fold down ramps. PO told me he had 15k lb's on it at one time. Only problem is the offset axle puts it kind of high in the air. Only found one car I couldn't get up there though. I have noticed that new trailers seem to sell for cheaper than used trailers from the personals. I plan on trading my flatbed in for a lower deck car trailer this summer, as prices seem to be in the $1500-$2000 range, with financing available.
Around here, in GA, they have many trailer OEMS. A 7000 pound, tandem axle, utility trailer with "used" tires and no brakes runs about $1050. It would not take much to remove the wood floor and replace it with a few sheets of 1/8 steel plate.
Even a beginner welder could weld a couple of cross members for more support under the steel floor before it went down. Most utility trailers are made from 1/8 wall (vs. 1/4 wall for car trailers) so a 120V MIG welder would handle welding in the cross members.
I made my own trailer as my first welding project. I needed a flyweight trailer to tow a 1,500 pound racecar behind a 3.0L Ranger (gutless). There are at least a handful of small open trailer specifically designed to handle a small rear-engine racecar; I borrowed a friend's trailer & copied his, with a few tweaks.
It was a fun project, and satisfying to accomplish, but it wound up costing me about $1,800. That was with a single 3,500# torsion axle, electric brakes, and dip-galvanizing the whole thing.
the biggest probelm with using most house trailer axles is the fact that they use a 14.5 rim, which restricts you to only that tire, and availability can be a problem. However, if you look long enough, some have 5 bolt Ford truck rims or 6 bolt Chevy rims, which of course makes it easier to find tires and rims.
There are plenty of possibilities for hubs on small trailers. Front wheel drive cars many times have basically a solid straight axle, with a drop. These can either be used as are, add a leaf and mount as any other axle, or extend them and use, or what have you. The Dodge minivans even have leaf springs already for use. They use round tubes, which make them easier to stretch.
Last edited by fellro86; Jun 25, 2005 at 01:14 AM.
On a car trailer you want brakes. The easy thing is to buy a complete axle with brakes from Northern Tools. I know at the stores in GA, they stock them. You can walk right in and be out in 15 minutes with everything you need to build a trailer except the steel. Tire and wheel assemblies, complete axles (drum to drum), hangers, springs, controllers, etc. You have to pay the sales tax, but, it is cheaper then the S&H.
You are in VA, get the Atlanta Advertiser (can send you a copy if you wish) or search here: http://www.traderonline.com
There was a used 14 foot car trailer for $450.00. These usually only have a 74" wide deck, but, you could easily modify it to make it wider or to handle a heavier load. The hard part (the coupler) would already be done for you. It is pretty easy to strength a trailer and to upgrade the axles.
edit:
example from trader
14' car trailer , dual axle new tires may need a little work. (woodstock), $450 OBO, 404-245-5782…
Last edited by rebocardo; Jun 25, 2005 at 09:21 AM.