Warm engine idle shake

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Jun 4, 2005 | 11:39 PM

#16

asavage

FTE Community Team

Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 1,813

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From: Oak Harbor, Washington

Quote:

Originally Posted by rpokorny

Looks like I will change out the O2 for sure, as for the IAC or IBV or what ever it is called, is it a difficult part to remove? Is there a chance that the bolts can snap or will they come out fairly easily? I had a look, and it doesn't look too hard if I remove the black plastic that is covering the part. The plastic is held in with plastic clips that have to be broken to get loose, so I guess I will replace them with nuts and bolts.

The black plastic is called a "snow shield", and yes, you have to generally break the push pins that retain it to the throttle cable bracket and upper plenum. On mine, they never go back on!

If your idle is really 600 RPM or less when warmed up, the ECM is not able to adequately control it. This is often a sludged-up idle air bypass, and you are on the right track and have received good advice here. You will usually not have to buy a replacement gasket for the IAC solenoid, the old one usually can be reused.

At least our old 3.0ls don't have EGR!

Doing a periodic/prophylactic replacement of the O2 sensor is a good idea, as they get lazy long before they'll trigger a Check Engine light. 60k is a good number.

Regards,
Al S.

Jun 16, 2005 | 03:37 PM

#17

rpokorny

Thread Starter

5th Wheeling

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 49

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From: Manitoba

I'm finally back... I got hit with the coolwebsearch malware which took over my pc as well as my other two pcs on my home network. It took a week of work to clean it out.

Have just purchaced my O2 sensor and will install it this weekend.

PS. Getting rid of some of this malware can take a long time and disable the pc.

Jun 16, 2005 | 08:09 PM

#18

asavage

FTE Community Team

Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 1,813

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From: Oak Harbor, Washington

One more advantage to:

a) not running IE
b) not running Windoze

"PC" does not imply "Microsoft".

Regards,
Al S.

Jun 17, 2005 | 08:54 AM

#19

rpokorny

Thread Starter

5th Wheeling

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 49

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From: Manitoba

I finally replaced the O2 sensor last night. It was very hard to replace as it wouldn't budge, I didn't want to damage the exhaust system, so when I put a pipe on the wrench and it still didn't budge, I had to resort to heat. I used a propane torch, heated it for a few minutes, then I had to use vicegrips as the nut part had rounded with the wrench. It finally came loose. As it cooled, it seemed to tighten up again, so I sprayed it with liquid wrench to keep it from becoming stuck again. I put the new one on, but it didn't seem to make a difference at first. After driving for 30 minutes, the idle at red lights was faster, and the shake was almost gone.

It still has a little shake, but am beginning to think it is something as simple as wiring and plugs. I made the mistake of using Bosch plugs and wires. Even though they are new, It still sounds like it is missing. I may replace them again, but it is getting expensive.

What is the best product to use to loosen rusted parts. I have alway used Liquid Wrench. What would be available in canada.

Jun 17, 2005 | 03:58 PM

#20

Bear River

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Joined: Nov 2004

Posts: 4,901

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From: Salt Lake City, Utah

Well, there are some better penetrateing oils out there, but now you would be getting into a lot of opinions, as everyone has their favorite. The best thing to do on 02 sensors is to use special anti sieze compuond made specifically for o2 sensors. Regular anti seize is not good for 02 sensors.

Jun 17, 2005 | 04:31 PM

#21

93nighthawk

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Joined: Jul 2004

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From: Mitchell, SD

Usually new O2s come pre-coated with anti-sieze on the threads. Just be careful not to wipe it off. FYI.

Jun 18, 2005 | 01:10 AM

#22

asavage

FTE Community Team

Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 1,813

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From: Oak Harbor, Washington

Std anti-sieze (lead or molybdenum) is fine for O2 sensors -- just don't get any where there aren't threads! The lead and moly "poison" (coat, really) the sensing element portion of the unit and won't read accurately if you get anti-sieze on it, and I don't know any way to "clean" the thing after it's been poisoned.

Regards,
Al S.