Aerostar Ford Aerostar

Warm engine idle shake

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 06-04-2005, 11:39 PM
asavage's Avatar
asavage
asavage is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Oak Harbor, Washington
Posts: 1,122
Received 19 Likes on 13 Posts
Originally Posted by rpokorny
Looks like I will change out the O2 for sure, as for the IAC or IBV or what ever it is called, is it a difficult part to remove? Is there a chance that the bolts can snap or will they come out fairly easily? I had a look, and it doesn't look too hard if I remove the black plastic that is covering the part. The plastic is held in with plastic clips that have to be broken to get loose, so I guess I will replace them with nuts and bolts.
The black plastic is called a "snow shield", and yes, you have to generally break the push pins that retain it to the throttle cable bracket and upper plenum. On mine, they never go back on!


If your idle is really 600 RPM or less when warmed up, the ECM is not able to adequately control it. This is often a sludged-up idle air bypass, and you are on the right track and have received good advice here. You will usually not have to buy a replacement gasket for the IAC solenoid, the old one usually can be reused.

At least our old 3.0ls don't have EGR!

Doing a periodic/prophylactic replacement of the O2 sensor is a good idea, as they get lazy long before they'll trigger a Check Engine light. 60k is a good number.

Regards,
Al S.
 
  #17  
Old 06-16-2005, 03:37 PM
rpokorny's Avatar
rpokorny
rpokorny is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm finally back... I got hit with the coolwebsearch malware which took over my pc as well as my other two pcs on my home network. It took a week of work to clean it out.

Have just purchaced my O2 sensor and will install it this weekend.

PS. Getting rid of some of this malware can take a long time and disable the pc.
 
  #18  
Old 06-16-2005, 08:09 PM
asavage's Avatar
asavage
asavage is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Oak Harbor, Washington
Posts: 1,122
Received 19 Likes on 13 Posts
One more advantage to:

a) not running IE
b) not running Windoze

"PC" does not imply "Microsoft".

Regards,
Al S.
 
  #19  
Old 06-17-2005, 08:54 AM
rpokorny's Avatar
rpokorny
rpokorny is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I finally replaced the O2 sensor last night. It was very hard to replace as it wouldn't budge, I didn't want to damage the exhaust system, so when I put a pipe on the wrench and it still didn't budge, I had to resort to heat. I used a propane torch, heated it for a few minutes, then I had to use vicegrips as the nut part had rounded with the wrench. It finally came loose. As it cooled, it seemed to tighten up again, so I sprayed it with liquid wrench to keep it from becoming stuck again. I put the new one on, but it didn't seem to make a difference at first. After driving for 30 minutes, the idle at red lights was faster, and the shake was almost gone.

It still has a little shake, but am beginning to think it is something as simple as wiring and plugs. I made the mistake of using Bosch plugs and wires. Even though they are new, It still sounds like it is missing. I may replace them again, but it is getting expensive.

What is the best product to use to loosen rusted parts. I have alway used Liquid Wrench. What would be available in canada.
 
  #20  
Old 06-17-2005, 03:58 PM
Bear River's Avatar
Bear River
Bear River is offline
Former ******
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Well, there are some better penetrateing oils out there, but now you would be getting into a lot of opinions, as everyone has their favorite. The best thing to do on 02 sensors is to use special anti sieze compuond made specifically for o2 sensors. Regular anti seize is not good for 02 sensors.
 
  #21  
Old 06-17-2005, 04:31 PM
93nighthawk's Avatar
93nighthawk
93nighthawk is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Mitchell, SD
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Usually new O2s come pre-coated with anti-sieze on the threads. Just be careful not to wipe it off. FYI.
 
  #22  
Old 06-18-2005, 01:10 AM
asavage's Avatar
asavage
asavage is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Oak Harbor, Washington
Posts: 1,122
Received 19 Likes on 13 Posts
Std anti-sieze (lead or molybdenum) is fine for O2 sensors -- just don't get any where there aren't threads! The lead and moly "poison" (coat, really) the sensing element portion of the unit and won't read accurately if you get anti-sieze on it, and I don't know any way to "clean" the thing after it's been poisoned.

Regards,
Al S.
 
  #23  
Old 06-22-2012, 04:42 AM
Jose A.'s Avatar
Jose A.
Jose A. is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,456
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Idle Air Control Bipass Valve
O2 sensor
MAF sensor

and don't forget the Coolant Temp Sensor! Eventually you'll hit on the one causing the problem!

 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Tertius81
3.8 & 4.2L V6
7
07-29-2014 04:57 AM
Mr. Diesel 7.3L
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
7
05-10-2013 06:24 AM
BarterOnlycom
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
24
04-26-2013 08:33 PM
xshovelheadx
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
9
10-30-2009 04:38 PM
JoeMech
Aerostar
23
08-26-2009 08:29 PM



Quick Reply: Warm engine idle shake



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:25 PM.