Warm engine idle shake
#16
Originally Posted by rpokorny
Looks like I will change out the O2 for sure, as for the IAC or IBV or what ever it is called, is it a difficult part to remove? Is there a chance that the bolts can snap or will they come out fairly easily? I had a look, and it doesn't look too hard if I remove the black plastic that is covering the part. The plastic is held in with plastic clips that have to be broken to get loose, so I guess I will replace them with nuts and bolts.
If your idle is really 600 RPM or less when warmed up, the ECM is not able to adequately control it. This is often a sludged-up idle air bypass, and you are on the right track and have received good advice here. You will usually not have to buy a replacement gasket for the IAC solenoid, the old one usually can be reused.
At least our old 3.0ls don't have EGR!
Doing a periodic/prophylactic replacement of the O2 sensor is a good idea, as they get lazy long before they'll trigger a Check Engine light. 60k is a good number.
Regards,
Al S.
#17
I'm finally back... I got hit with the coolwebsearch malware which took over my pc as well as my other two pcs on my home network. It took a week of work to clean it out.
Have just purchaced my O2 sensor and will install it this weekend.
PS. Getting rid of some of this malware can take a long time and disable the pc.
Have just purchaced my O2 sensor and will install it this weekend.
PS. Getting rid of some of this malware can take a long time and disable the pc.
#19
I finally replaced the O2 sensor last night. It was very hard to replace as it wouldn't budge, I didn't want to damage the exhaust system, so when I put a pipe on the wrench and it still didn't budge, I had to resort to heat. I used a propane torch, heated it for a few minutes, then I had to use vicegrips as the nut part had rounded with the wrench. It finally came loose. As it cooled, it seemed to tighten up again, so I sprayed it with liquid wrench to keep it from becoming stuck again. I put the new one on, but it didn't seem to make a difference at first. After driving for 30 minutes, the idle at red lights was faster, and the shake was almost gone.
It still has a little shake, but am beginning to think it is something as simple as wiring and plugs. I made the mistake of using Bosch plugs and wires. Even though they are new, It still sounds like it is missing. I may replace them again, but it is getting expensive.
What is the best product to use to loosen rusted parts. I have alway used Liquid Wrench. What would be available in canada.
It still has a little shake, but am beginning to think it is something as simple as wiring and plugs. I made the mistake of using Bosch plugs and wires. Even though they are new, It still sounds like it is missing. I may replace them again, but it is getting expensive.
What is the best product to use to loosen rusted parts. I have alway used Liquid Wrench. What would be available in canada.
#20
Well, there are some better penetrateing oils out there, but now you would be getting into a lot of opinions, as everyone has their favorite. The best thing to do on 02 sensors is to use special anti sieze compuond made specifically for o2 sensors. Regular anti seize is not good for 02 sensors.
#22
Std anti-sieze (lead or molybdenum) is fine for O2 sensors -- just don't get any where there aren't threads! The lead and moly "poison" (coat, really) the sensing element portion of the unit and won't read accurately if you get anti-sieze on it, and I don't know any way to "clean" the thing after it's been poisoned.
Regards,
Al S.
Regards,
Al S.
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