first, I apologize for the cheap shameless plug on for my screen name.(always advertising)

Now for the real question. I have been reading all over the forum and can't determine what is going on with my truck:

I have an '06 F250 with a 6.0. I have 180,000+ miles. My truck has been very faithful however, I have a problem that has gotten progressively worse. I started noticing last year out at the deer lease when it got below 30 degree the engine had an issue warming up. Loss of power but no smoke.

Now, whenever I am starting it after it has sat and completely cooled down, when I start it(still starts immediately) it takes the engine about 10 minutes to warm up. The engine idles rough and I have very little power. As of a few months ago, it does now smoke while I'm waiting for it to warm up.

Here's a breakdown of symptoms:
1) rough idle until engine is warm to normal running temperature.
2) I have low to no power for the first 2-3 minutes. low to some power for the next 3-10 minutes and full power after 10 minutes.
3) smokes until warm, after that. no smoke
4) it will give a hard shift when cold. to make a smooth shift, I do a manual shift by releasing the excelorator and reapplying.
5) when it is not warm and I get it up to 50 mph, the whole truck starts shaking and engine sputters. after warm, it runs perfect
6) on cold mornings(below 40 degrees) if I don't give it a little gas from the excelorator right after starting it and leave it to warm up, it will die. It only takes about 10-20 seconds of idling a little higher than normal for it to take over for itself and I can walk-off and let warm up.
7) once the engine is warm after 10 minutes, no issues.

I saw on the forum that someone suggested cleaning out the EGR valve. Did that and replaced the gasket and seals also. I'm lost, anyone know what is going on?

 

Welcome to FTE. You'll find the knowledge, information, and resources here are second to none!

Please remember, only supporting vendors can actively advertise here on FTE. If you'd like to become a supporting vendor, we can certainly put you in touch with the person who handles that here at FTE.

As for this thread, you've posted in the '04 - '08 F150 forum, so I'm gonna move this on down to the 6.0L PSD forum where the resident experts can help you out with your problem.

Stewart

 

Thanks Stewart, yes, please do give my information to the right person. I may be cheap and shameless, but I do have respect for other websites.

Also, thanks for moving me to the correct spot. Hopefully I provided enough info to get an answer.

Y'all have a great day!

 

welcome Barter only, first off do you have any gauges to read live data like a scan gauge or dash boss theres others to but seem like the info would be scan gauge with x gauges, do you have OEM oil and fuel filters? also what weight of oil are you useing? have you had any work done to the truck? like glo plugs, ficm,Injectors anything under warrentee? how old are the batteries,there are a great bunch of guys here .so the more info to help them.next do you buy fuel at the same place and add power service or ford cetain boost, howes, to each fill? when was the last time you drained the water separator on the rail?

 

That's what I was afraid of. No I don't have any gauges. This is why I love working on my 78 Vette, simple and easy.

I am running 15W40 Castro. It's been a while since I changed my fuel filter. the last time, I had some water build-up in the fuel filter, it acted differently.(also to answer the question about draining the water on the rail) It has been a while since I changed those out, I will do that just because it should be done. I will try to pick up filters tomorrow to do this tomorrow night.

Not sure on oil filter cause I had it changed at a service station.

I have not had any warrantee work. This truck has been great. I had to replace the tensioner back in November and in the process, broke a plastic nipple on the radiator and had to replace the whole sucker.(didn't trust my coffee straw with JB Weld patch job that got me to the deer lease and back)

I want to say the batteries are about 2 years old.

Fuel is bought generally at the same location but I travel way too much. I have Flashpaq Superchips that I have been using for about 2 years. However, it haven't seen any results from it.(fuel economy or performance)

Had the AC compressor replaced this past summer.

I just really haven't had to do much to it. Other then the fact that the fuel level sensor needs to be changed out(to be discussed later but I know I've been told that I need to either drop the tank or pull the bed), that's about it.

I hate to write a long response, but I want to be able to provide as much info as possible. Let me know if y'all have any other questions.

Thank you very much for your help!

Kyle

 

Kyle,
Welcome to FTE
Here is a nice tool to get
ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
You program in the Xguages and it will let you watch almost
all the needed data for diagnostics and can be found at places like Autozone
or buy it online.
At the top of the forum is something called the Tech Folder https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
you will find some
very good information in there. The 2 things that come to mind with your problem
is battery voltage and FICM voltages (Fuel Injection Control Module) a tired battery
can cause the FICm to have problems you check the FICM at key on, Cranking and
WOT you should see it stay near 48V if it drops down too low it can cause problems with
running and then killing injectors (not good) read this for some FICM info and testing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
This should get you started and give you some things to check and ask about.
Feel free to ask about things.

Sean

 

first need to check ficm volts you can use a DVM look in tech folder for how to

If FICM looks good then check the Oil For fuel delution

If you have excessive fuel delution in oil the inject orings could be leaking untill warm when they seal up and truck runs normal

Iv had the inject oring issue and your symtoms are very close

Smell the Oil see if smell like diesel fuel also check oil leval make shure to do it cold and make note of leval. If the orings leak it may take 2-4weeks to see a noticable change in oil leval

Also check the stuff 04badford mentions

ScangaugeII can be had for 160.00 at autozone and will show what you need and just about everything else on the engine and some trans

SGII will need some programing for all the Custom gauges specific to the 6.0L the folks here can help with that

SGII has 40-50 diffrent gauges you can see however only 25 can be stored so I have the main ones programmed in and have a List for the others just in case I want to check something eles out

 

Sean do you have a picture difference on OEM oil cap vs aftermarket,hopefully kyle they didnt put an after market oil cap on ,but change the fuel filters and drain the water separator,and see if things run alittle better.

 

This is fantastic. Thank y'all very much! I've always feared the electronic side of working on vehicles and not knowing what to look for, but man, this site has it! Sweet! I'm glad I stumbled upon this and y'all.

I was reading about how the alternator takes about 2 minutes to kick in so I didn't think to check the batteries. I will definitely pick up the gauge.

Hopefully this is more like Sherlock Holmes and the best clue is the most obvious one.

I'll check back in when I have some more info(hopefully success!)

Thanks again!

 

Rusty Axlerod has the photos and I don't recall the link to them.
Maybe someone can drop by and post it.

Sean

 

this is a great site and all the guys here know whats up with these motors and trucks ,you will have to enter some info on the scan gauge first ,like tank size, cansef, year, 6.0, then watch the vid and do the pids benny is the man with most all of the pids and knowlage of what it all means. Thanks

 

Here is the picture of the 2 caps. One on the left is what you should have.

Also, Motorcraft filters both oil and fuel are a must. (you can also use Racor, they make the Motorcraft ones)

And for better prices try this site:

Ford 6.0 Liter Turbo Diesel Truck Filters, Air Filters, Oil Filters, Transmission Filters And Glow Plugs - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks

Or:

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - OEM/Factory Parts




I think that is the one from Rusty. Either way, I stole it!

 

Hey Sean, glad you're feeling better dude! Here's what I have on the filters, not sure which one you're thinking of:



YouTube oil filter comparison

 

Thanks Rusty,
That is what I was looking for.

And thanks about asking how I am doing. I see the Dr
today and I think we are talking about when to start the rehab stuff.
I am feeling better.

Sean

 

Thank you Rusty, Kyle look real close at these two caps and make sure its OEM ford along with the filters theres alot of play with aftermarket caps and filters , ( just a piece of mind ) that you know the diff,