1) Ok, I pulled the spout and tried to set my timing. I have brushed the gunk off, had a younger set of eyes look and still can't figure out which mark on the block to use. What I see from left to right are what looks like 3 or 4 number 5's followed by a longer line on the right. I imagine the longer line on the right is top dead center? So, if anyone out there has a 1991 4.9L and has timed it can you tell me which mark is 10 degrees btc?
2) I currently just set it on the far right mark because that is where the mark on the pulley disappears. If I try to move it any further to the left by turning the distributor (away from the line on the far right and towards the numbers) the 'V' disappears.
Any help here?
Thanks!

 

Hi, Ok here goes. Ford in all its infinite wisdom put two sets of timing marks on the 300. There is one set on the right hand side near the top of the timing cover, these marks are cast in the cover. These naturally are the WRONG marks. On the left side of the timing cover where you can't see them are the right marks. They are on a metal plate bolted to the cover using the cover bolts. The vibration damper also has two sets of marks, wouldn't you know it! There is a large square notch , nope not the right one . There is also a very thin scribed line on the damper, yep that is the right one. .
To do this right, slide under the engine and clean off the thin scribe line and paint it white and while you are under there you can see the bolted on timing mark on the cover there is a large triangle cut in the plate , that is 10 degrees before TDC the correct setting .Pull your distributor cap and crank the engine until the rotor points at number one cyl on the cap.Then see if you can see the alignment of the timing mark on the damper some how and the mark on the bolt on plate, its easier when the engine isn't running and you can stick your head in there without loosing half of it. Your timing marks should be some where near each other. Crank the engine to align the 0 degree mark and the mark on the damper, don't worry about the distributor position. Just line up the marks. Then go to the right side of the cover with the cast in marks( that you can see) and mark the damper with white something, paint even whiteout works.Now you have a new timing mark that you can see. Pull the spout, yes it is in the same harness as the distributor connector, its a gray jumper.Put the cap back on. Start the engine and use your new marks to set the timing at degrees before TDC.
Of course this only works if your cover has the cast in marks, I have a 90 and it has the marks. I have just finished assembling the engine and found out that the engine was set using the damper line and the cast in marks. I figure the engine was running 40 degrees retarded, but MAN did ever start quick in any weather with any oil at any temp.
There are other way to do this but it takes too long to describe them here.Sorry I almost forgot. When you mark the damper with the new mark it should be marked the same as the left side original, i.e.--
if the original marks are aligned at 0 you should paint your new mark to align at 0 also, if the original is at say 6 your new mark should be painted to be in line with 6 on the cast marks and so on.

 

Thanks! You were right. This info really saved the day. Now, is there some special tool to remove the bolts on the distributor mounted ignition control module?

 

Get a set of Torx bits...

 

Someone must have stripped the insides then. The inside is only slightly indented with no torx edges. Sounds like I need to drill it.

 

The tool to remove the module is available at Autozone( around $5 ) it is NOT a torx screw. It is a very thin wall 7/32 deep socket with a **** attached. I believe the first time I removed one I uses a standard 1/4 inch drive deep socket that barely fit because the walls of the socket are too thick.

stractor

 

Well at least my truck came with torx... Sorry.

 

I'm having a similar issue and I remembered there was something weird about the 4.9 and the 90 f150 but couldn't think of what it was until two nights ago. Now to make sure I don't screw up when you say right side are you facing the engine or are you saying right side of the car or passenger side? Looking at yhe engine on my 90 f150 there is a plate low on the passenger side. It's pretty wide. It has several lines on it plus a big triangle notch cut out and a round peep hole at the top most of the plate. It's nearly impossible to see through the hole and the plate isn't very easily seen. On the top of the balancer there is another set that looks to be made into the timing cover. I marked the 1/8" line on the balancer but was curious if was the wide notch cut out of the back I was supposed to use. It's been 15 years or more since I dealt with this. I didn't look at the date on this thing it may be 20 years old for all I know but if anyone can help me out I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks have a good one

 

LEFT & RIGHT IS ALWAYS WHEN SITTING IT THE CAR!
You can not say driver or passenger side as we have users that drive on the left side of the street and the driver sits on the right side or the car or truck.
Dave ----

 

the reason i asked is due to the description of the timing marks on the f150 hes talking about. When facing mine the marks near the top are a bit to the left or driverside on this truck. The other set is way lower on the right or passenger side. His description sounds opposite. The ones made into the cover are near the top of the balancer . the plate is just over half way to the top of the balancer. Laying under the truck you can just barely see it but cant read it at all. From the top its near impossible to see due to hoses lines brackets and parts. I put a timing light on it for the hell of it but couldnt make out or sure where the line was. Its 1/8" long at the most and due to the angle of view i dont have a clue where it was lining up. Ill try my fiber optic camera i guess. Im too big to squeeze in anywhere top or bottom of the truck.

 

Hey Lamboman,
Dave is right when he defines right and left sides when speaking in general terms.
But in the reply to the original post here back in 2005 I believe he was speaking of standing in front of the engine.
The tab I use on my 79 is on the left as you are (looking at the engine).
If you put your head down toward the batt area look behind the belts, you should be able to see the marks. May need to use a mirror.
I always remove the vacuum line when checking timing on my 79.
Just don't forget to hook it back....LOL
Alex

 

am I correct in thinking the v cut into the plate is 10 degrees? And the mark I'm shooting for. Im going to have to paint my mark bigger. I put some white paint on the 1/8" groove but I couldn't see it to save my life. I'll extend it across the balancer. I prob will have to use a mirror or my fiber optic camera cause I can't get down in there or see past the belts brackets etc. Thanks for the reply. I'd just set it by ear if it weren't for the other issues I'm afraid are present. I'm pretty sure the fuel system is part of the issue. The twin tanks don't switch and havnt in decades. From what I've been able to find that can cause the working pump to wear out. I pushed the pressure relief valve in and my hand got some gas on it but not a bunch. I bought a pressure test kit. Turned yhe key on didn't start. Did this several times and the gauge never moved. Then started it and the gauge didn't move. I pulled it off to check it out yhere was a little gas on the adapter. Reconnected and still no movement. Took it off and pushed the valve stem in while running and gas came out but it didn't seem like 50 psi worth. For curiosity sake I screwed it onto the tire valve stem and boom instantly 45psi. So the tester works. The fuel filter was replaced very recently. The one I removed was on backward. I had this thing running like new until it was taken to some shop. It came back worse than it was before I changed plugs wires rotor and dist cap and filter. I'm sure they jacked with yhe timing because I found red paint drips here and there and a big sloppy line across the balancer. I'm guessing they might have timed it using the top set of marks on the cover. If you or anyone have any thoughts on the fuel issue I'd greatly appreciate it.