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Old May 22, 2005 | 04:06 PM
  #1  
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Oil Change Interval?

The 'quick lube' industry promotes religious 3,000 mile oil changes, but as far as I know, a longer interval will not cause engine damage.

Since I lack an owners manual for my '93 3.0, can someone here that has one tell me what Ford recommends for the interval? Standard and severe service schedules both, if you have access to them.

Thanks.
 
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Old May 22, 2005 | 04:40 PM
  #2  
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I do not know what Ford recommends. We had a 92 with the 3.0, and changed every 2800-3000, and have no complaints about the vehicle. Change it every 3000 for a long lasting van. We sold ours running strong at 310,000 miles on it. Treat it well, and it will do the same for you. 3000, just like the penzoil says

Ryan
 
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Old May 22, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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Ford recommends 7500 miles, but I won't go that far. The savings is not worth it with the cost of oil changes in the teens nowadays.
 
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Old May 22, 2005 | 10:34 PM
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my .02

First off it depends on what type and brand of oil you run. Good quality Dino Oil (like Castrol GTX) you can run 6-8k miles on before changing. Or if you are running full synthetic oil (like Mobil 1) you can go 20k mi plus before the additives/molecular structure break's down.

The key is changing the filter about every 2k-3k miles. It is a myth that oil needs to be changed every 3k miles. The oil does not "wear out" in that amount of time. The problem is that the filter is usually full/clogged by that time.

From a business point of view, it is easier to make more money changing the oil AND filter at the same time then just changing the filter. Also the time required to do either is about the same.

Personally I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and change the motorcraft filters every 2k mi. At the 20k mi mark I change the oil. It comes out only a tinge darker than when it went in and I mostly do in city driving. I did this in my '93 Tempo from brand new to 200k mi and no engine problems/leaks. It took a deer to kill it.

The filter is the key, that keeps your oil clean.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 11:41 PM
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Mine is a 1995 4L and we use it for towing trailers, 24 hour runs down to Fla to see family and general driving. We change out the oil every 3K to 4K miles. Why be cheap stretching the miles between changes and killing the engine? Just my opinion!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 05:42 AM
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I use synthetic 5W-40. I used to change it every 7,500 when I did a lot of driving. Meanwhile I went down to 5,000 or every 6 months. Mostly it's 6 months with less than 5,000 mls driven.
Plus I have to refill a quart every 600-800 mls so it gets fresh oil anyway. And I change the oil filter every time!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 05:49 AM
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I have a '92 Sable with 236,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 25,000 and the oil filter every 12,500. I use Amsoil's synthetic that has a recommendation of a 25,000 mile oil change. Everytime I change the filter I send a sample of oil to the lab to ensure I was not causing any excellerated damage to the engine. Prior to this experiment I always changed my oil at manufactures intervals. I have a couple of other vehicles that I also use the extended oil change oils and filters on. They are too new to see if there are any issues. However, I lab tested both of them and they show no signs of any issues.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 07:09 AM
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I change every 3,000 so I don't use any fancy synthetics since I change so often just use Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil, or whatever name brand I can get in bulk at the local Costco or Sams Club . I always use the Motorcraft filters since Autozone carrys them for about $3.85 or so. I never use those generic oils they just doesn't give me piece of mind.
 

Last edited by krankshaft; Jun 9, 2005 at 07:13 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 09:44 AM
  #9  
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I change the oil at 5,000 mile intervals. mainly because it's easy to remember. I don't think it hurts, as my 94 had 250,000 when I gave it to my brother a year ago. Now it's close to 270,000 and running strong. BTW, he changes the oil every 3000 miles.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 10:37 AM
  #10  
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on the subject of those off brand oils. be careful, most of them do not contain detergents
 
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 04:47 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by M.Herrington
on the subject of those off brand oils. be careful, most of them do not contain detergents
Anything with API SB (or SC?) or higher will. That is, about 1946 spec or newer.

But you're right: there *is* still SA oil being sold at convenience stores. Not suitable for anything except a Sears air compressor, IMO.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 06:13 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 93nighthawk
my .02

First off it depends on what type and brand of oil you run. Good quality Dino Oil (like Castrol GTX) you can run 6-8k miles on before changing. Or if you are running full synthetic oil (like Mobil 1) you can go 20k mi plus before the additives/molecular structure break's down.

The key is changing the filter about every 2k-3k miles. It is a myth that oil needs to be changed every 3k miles. The oil does not "wear out" in that amount of time. The problem is that the filter is usually full/clogged by that time.

From a business point of view, it is easier to make more money changing the oil AND filter at the same time then just changing the filter. Also the time required to do either is about the same.

Personally I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and change the motorcraft filters every 2k mi. At the 20k mi mark I change the oil. It comes out only a tinge darker than when it went in and I mostly do in city driving. I did this in my '93 Tempo from brand new to 200k mi and no engine problems/leaks. It took a deer to kill it.

The filter is the key, that keeps your oil clean.
------------------------
Nighthawk, I see what you are saying. Honestly, I do. However, these are my only two "quips" to what you are saying: 1) I agree with you about the oil filter being changed. However, if I am going to go to the effort of changing the oil filter, why not just loosen the drain bolt, and drain the oil? To change the oil filter, the Aerostar will be up on car ramps, right. (I always change my oil filter from under the van. There is not enough room, to changing the oil filter, without the front end being up. Correct? 2) I like and use Mobil 1 5w30. However, I don't like any oil being in the engine for 20,000 miles. During that time, the oil must hold a lot of combustion by-products, moisture, acids, etc. suspended in the oil. Especially during the winter, when moisture "issues" are more apparent. Also, at 20K, the oil has undoubtly been subjected to numerous heat cycles, cooled down, heat up, etc. So even though the oil (Mobil 1) might still be okay, the amount of by-products in the oil, is what I would frown on, personally. Nighthawk, if I am missing something, please let me know. Hey, I've been wrong before. I might as well be this time as well!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 09:26 AM
  #13  
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I can't remember if it was the '87 Tempo or the '89 Aerostar we bought new and the Ford owners manual actually recommended (unless in severe driving conditions) 5w 30, SC, every 10,000 miles. Since then I have changed oil and filter about 10K using whatever is on sale if it’s SC rated. And I had 180K on the Tempo, and 315K, and 284K on the Aerostars when they were sold running great on original motor/trans. I’m on my third Aero now. Maybe its luck but I also believe we waste a lot of good oil with the 3,000 interval recommendation. Not to mention what is dumped or disposed of improperly. Also, what really kills is when the oil is constantly ran low. Thank goodness for the ‘Low Oil” idiot lights that all cars should have.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 05:40 PM
  #14  
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I don't have any oil change history on my '91 3.0L, but I bought it with 145K on it, changed the oil at 151250, 163880, and I might get around to it again soon. Looking at 168000 as of this morning. Maybe I'll go to 175000 and change it again. Oh, and I have low oil pressure, too. Lots of pressure when cold. But once warmed up it stays between the N of NORMAL and the red zone. I'll wait to hear knocking before I try to figure that one out.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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There was a post a while back about the oil gauge being a dummy gauge and not indicative of true pressure. It was more of an indication of having or not having oil pressure. Seems there was a link to a revision where you could change the sending unit, alter the PC Board on the dash, and have a real gauge. I couldn't find it in the search, but I'll bet one of these experts here could turn it up. If we can find it again, I'll make a copy and try it out.
 
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