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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: omaha ne
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1990 f 350 7.3 non turbo 4x4 auto.Pushing water and steam out the radator but not over heating.Head gasket?Is there a sealer i can get to get me by for a week or two til my other motor can be put in?Thanks Patriot Towing
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 305
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From: Bothell, WA
If the water and steam are coming out of the radiator cap sealants won't do any good. Assuming they are coming out of the radiator cap here are a couple things you could try.
1. Check your radiator cap for the proper pressure and replace it with a new one if it's not holding 13 lbs. Less than that and you will lose coolant. If the cap is good go to step 2.
2. Check for exhaust gas in the coolant. If the test comes up positive it might be a headgasket or a cracked head or block. On my engine it was a failed sleeve. Hope for the easy fixes. If the exhaust gas test is negative try #3.
3.The check ball could be stuck. The test describes squeezing the top radiator hose and listening for a clink as the ball settles back down. The check ball is located next to the block in the goose neck connecting the radiator hose.
1. Check your radiator cap for the proper pressure and replace it with a new one if it's not holding 13 lbs. Less than that and you will lose coolant. If the cap is good go to step 2.
2. Check for exhaust gas in the coolant. If the test comes up positive it might be a headgasket or a cracked head or block. On my engine it was a failed sleeve. Hope for the easy fixes. If the exhaust gas test is negative try #3.
3.The check ball could be stuck. The test describes squeezing the top radiator hose and listening for a clink as the ball settles back down. The check ball is located next to the block in the goose neck connecting the radiator hose.
Last edited by tdford; May 21, 2005 at 10:51 PM. Reason: correct grammar
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
When my head gasket failed it took 15 seconds running to build 30 PSI in the radiator.
Also when it sat for just a few minutes not running, the water drained into the cylinder and hydrolocked the engine.
Blown head gaskets are not something to try an easy fix on.
Engine dependability is almost zero, and the possibility of greater engine damage is almost 100%.
When I went to replace the heater core at a later date, it was so swelled up from over pressure that I almost could not get it out of the heater, and the radiator failed shortly after that. I only drove the truck two miles home with the radiator cap loose after the head gasket failed.
So that was an additional 400 dollars in parts plus the time to change them for driving it 2 miles.
Also when it sat for just a few minutes not running, the water drained into the cylinder and hydrolocked the engine.
Blown head gaskets are not something to try an easy fix on.
Engine dependability is almost zero, and the possibility of greater engine damage is almost 100%.
When I went to replace the heater core at a later date, it was so swelled up from over pressure that I almost could not get it out of the heater, and the radiator failed shortly after that. I only drove the truck two miles home with the radiator cap loose after the head gasket failed.
So that was an additional 400 dollars in parts plus the time to change them for driving it 2 miles.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; May 21, 2005 at 11:42 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Mackinaw, IL
Just a thought... I don't know if it will help but this past summer I blew a lower radiator hose and after I replaced it and added coolant I had the same thing happen with my truck. I ended up being an air pocket in the cooling system somewhere. We ran the truck up on ramps and let the system "burp" itself if you will. I was very lucky though. I thought I blew a head gasket on a fresh motor.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 305
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From: Bothell, WA
Anytime the coolant is drained, or lost and replaced it's possible to trap air in the block because the thermostat doesn't have a by-pass. Patriottow's test for the problem would be the same procedure used to correctly refill the system. It's a little easier than the ramp trick.
Start the cold engine and let it run untill the thermostat opens. You can tell this by feeling the upper radiator hose. When it starts to warm up the thermostat is opening. Immediately shut off the engine, remove the radiator cap, and check the level. The coolant will have drained back through the open thermostat and replaced the air pocket if there was one. Immediately add coolant to the correct fill level before the thermostat can cool down and close. If you let it cool down before adding the coolant it's possible to trap another air pocket.
Start the cold engine and let it run untill the thermostat opens. You can tell this by feeling the upper radiator hose. When it starts to warm up the thermostat is opening. Immediately shut off the engine, remove the radiator cap, and check the level. The coolant will have drained back through the open thermostat and replaced the air pocket if there was one. Immediately add coolant to the correct fill level before the thermostat can cool down and close. If you let it cool down before adding the coolant it's possible to trap another air pocket.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 61
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From: Jersey Shore Area
Might be my problem.
I just got my truck back together 1 hour ago. I 'm hoping I have this very problem (and not another one). I just put a post out on "5.0L temp gauge spiking after t-stat and pump". I think the t-stat may be okay (new), as the temp WILL drop as rapidly as it raises. I'm gonna try this and let you know. Beat's popping the t-stat for nothing.
To prevent "pinching" the t-stat, I got a new housing, turned it upside down, lightly siliconed the gasket surface, slipped in the t-stat, and applied the gasket, using the bolts to align it. I let the glue set, and the tstat seemed to be in there pretty firm. I installed it every so gently and squarely after all the posts and horror stories I read. So I don't think it got pinched, and it sure don't leak!
Thanks - JerseyDevil
To prevent "pinching" the t-stat, I got a new housing, turned it upside down, lightly siliconed the gasket surface, slipped in the t-stat, and applied the gasket, using the bolts to align it. I let the glue set, and the tstat seemed to be in there pretty firm. I installed it every so gently and squarely after all the posts and horror stories I read. So I don't think it got pinched, and it sure don't leak!
Thanks - JerseyDevil
Last edited by jerseydevil; Jul 14, 2005 at 10:38 PM. Reason: more
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