Ok, it was not my front differential making the increasingly loud noise in the front end of my 96 AWD, looks like it might be the driver's side front wheel bearings. I'm going to change them but my cheapo Chilton manual is only for rear wheel drive models.

A few questions, first does anybody know if there is a link to a site with an exploded view of Aerostar parts? I don't have any diagram for what the front hub looks like inside.

Also looking for a "blow by blow" description of how to disassemble, knock (press?) out the bearings and install new ones.

Anybody know what the bearing specification is? Are they a standard Timken bearing that I can purchase or do I have to go back to Ford?

Thanks in advance.

 

The front wheel bearing assemblies are a dealer item. In 1997, while away from home I had to have them changed at a Ford dealer. Set me back a $1000.00. I don't remember, but I think each wheel bearing assembly runs about $250.00 each.

 

I think Autozone offers around $110.00?
Fordguy49

 

It pretty easy I just did mine with the help of my chiltons manual.

 

Sounds good....more info please!

Can you re-type the instructions on here for me?

Did you remove and replace the actual bearings or did you buy them pre-assembled into a hub? Where did you buy the parts and how much was the cost?

Thanks.

 

Go to fordparts.com and click the OEM parts link select your year Aero and continue from there they should have a parts diagram you'll have to drill down for it though.

 

The ones I picked up from AutoZone were Timken bearing hubs, very high quality, around $110 each as mentioned above. Replacement is really fairly straightforward, the only source of trouble would be removing and installing the axle/hub nut. It takes around 175-200 ft/lbs torque which means a big torque wrench is required along with a 30mm deepwell socket.

 

And a nice BIG breaker bar to loosen the bolt if it hasn't been loosened for some time.

As for a torque wrench if you don't have one you can go the cheap deflecting beam route or the more expensive one that is preset at a specific torque and clicks like a ratchet when the bolt is at the preset torque.

 

Replacing the hub assembly is not a big job. You'll need a 30 mm deep socket to remove the hub nut and a 3 jaw puller. Remove the hub nut and the 3 bolts securing the assembly to the suspension from the back. These are easy to see once the brake caliper and rotor are removed. Use the puller to remove the assembly from the drive axle. Slide the new bearing into place and pull down with the hub nut. The Haynes manual recommends that the hub nut be torqued to 165 ft lbs and the three mounting bolts be torqued to 59 ft lbs.

I posted this in your thread about differential lube but thought I'd copy it here. The job should take less than an hour per side, pretty simple.

 

Five-six months after the driver's side awd front bearing cooked, I am now having the same party with the right side. This time however I managed to catch the developing situation early enough, to avoid the frustrating and expensive tow rig call which happened last time.

For anyone reading this thread, I second on the fact that awd front bearings are definitely WAY MORE EASY to change than what one might think in advance. Really, not a big deal provided proper tools.

The only thing that might come as a surprise in some situations is a stuck brake disc. That happened last time. In fact no matter what pullers and heat I applied, the disc just would not come out without practically breaking it to pieces. Thus, you might want to (mentally) factor in possible replacement of front discs too. Which is in itself not a bad idea anyway in most Aeros after K's of mileage.

Cannon45 pretty much rounded up the bearing change procedure.

 

Well, I finally found the time to replace the left front hub & bearings and yep...solved the problem.

Thanks to everybody for the assistance it made the job much easier.

Only problem I had was that the hub came apart in two sections when I used the puller to get it off the splined shaft. Not sure if this is supposed to happen, or just that the bearing was so worn out. Anyhow, the section of the hub which bolts to the suspension casting was stuck on there like crazy. I ended up whacking the bejeebees out of it with a 2lb hammer until it finally freed up....in significantly worse shape than when I started hammering I might add!

I did look at whether the bearing itself could be replaced...not really. When you "split" the hub there is a circlip inside the inner hub portion where you could take the roller bearings and outer bearing race from out of the hub, but the inner bearing race is an integral part of the inner hub assembly so....no go.

Ended up picking up a used hub at the local bone yard for about $50. It'll probably last me longer than the van lives anyway, already up to around 250,00KM on it.

 

I'll tell you, Canadaler, if the hub assembly came apart while pulling it from the drive axle splines your van wasn't far from road kill. The towing charge would have been more that the hub assembly because these vans can't be towed. They have to be brought in on a roll back to avoid damage to the TC.

As far as buying at a salvage yard, I had my mechanic replace the first set, both sides, using NAPA parts, $400.00 +. Passenger side is doing fine, driver side lasted about 4 months. That's when I learned to replace the assembly myself. Yours could possibly outlast high dollar NAPA parts. At least now you'll recognize the sound if they start to fail.

I'm glad we could be of help.

Luck in the future,
Rod

 

going through some old threads and decided to put in my two cents. i live in chicago, had to replace the left front assembly a few months back. the rust/fusion was so bad, my friend and i took turns beating with 4lb. hammer, cold steel chisel, and soaking with EB after every several whacks. nearly despondant, ready to give up, the first part came off! with renewed vigor, kept back at it, and, the rest finally separated! success... after about 2.5 hours of banging away. i hate salt.

 

I have done this myself, its not a bad job. Be sure to just get the hub assembly with bearings already in it, it makes it much easier. You may need a hub puller.

 

Ok, so I think my RF AWD bearing is shot (92 aerostar, 4L), and actually feel pretty lucky that i got home ok. Heard some really loud grinding sounds- more when turning left/ some when turning right, and mostly gone when driving strait. Almost home, and the wheel locks up (going about 25 mph). Immediately stopped and got it into reverse, and unstuck it. Made the last mile home ok. Looked behind the rotor and the bearing isn't sealed anymore- some small metal flakes fell out, etc. SO, my question is, how easy is it *really* to replace? Online chilton's manual isn't much help, I'll quote:"All Wheel Drive Models: The front hub and bearing is an integral assembly and is not serviceable or adjustable. See Section 7 for replacement procedures." Section 7 doesn't exist online, however.

I'd like to believe Cannon45's answer is correct, but now I have one more question: At my local Schucks O'Reilly, there are two hub assemblies available: (1) Master Pro Bearing/Seal - Axle Hub Assembly, Part Number: 515000, $47.99/ and (2) Precision - Hub Assembly Part Number: 515000, $138.99.

Q1: Why the discrepancy?
Q2: If the repair is as easy as advertised, should I go ahead with the cheap one?

Is there a walk-through on AWD bearing replacement? I'd place myself at the level of "experienced novice". Done a bit of work, but never done any axle/wheel work, other than brakes. Also, what about CV boot replacement? The other wheel has a torn boot, but the bearing is (I think) ok. Is it easy to remove and replace the old bearing, or does it get trashed in the process? How do I inspect the bearing (other than waiting for it to go in a more spectacular fashion than the first one)