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i just pulled out my distributor and it came out with a long metal rod...kinda like an alan wrench... my buddy says i just screws up majorly but i really have no idea...i think the rod is the oil pump gear drive thingy(i'm using "thingy" becuase i really have no idea.
Anyway, am i in trouble or is this normal?
Oil pump driveshaft. Why did you take out your distributor? if you are changing dist. then just replace the shaft unless it looks bad then use a new one.
i just pulled out my distributor and it came out with a long metal rod...kinda like an alan wrench... my buddy says i just screws up majorly but i really have no idea...i think the rod is the oil pump gear drive thingy(i'm using "thingy" becuase i really have no idea.
Anyway, am i in trouble or is this normal?
Thanks
Yes, it is the oil pump drive shaft and something was wrong if it came out with the dist. as it has a keeper to keep it in the pump and engine if installed right. Get as new one (they are cheap), use heavy grease or non-harding sealer and basicly glue it in to the dist shaft and when you reinstall the dist. you may need to bump the engine over a bit to get the shaft to go into the pump. Or you can get a set of mechanical fingers and a flash light and feed it down into the oil pump and then reinstall the dist. Either way works and you haven't hurt a thing.
I agree, no problem. Actually you are lucky. When the shaft keeper is not installed you can end up pulling the shaft out of the oil pump but then dropping it down into the oil pan. That would be no fun.
I remember my son after rebuilding his first 302. Looking at the leftover parts he had (LOL) I saw the retainer clip for the pump shaft. I told him what it was and where it went and to be careful when pulling the dizzy out. He only dropped it once into the oilpan. After that was more careful. LOL. G.
Since it's out do yourself a favor and get the ARP shaft for about $16. I saw what happened to my stock one. It snapped like a twig. The ARP is alot thicker and worth every penny.
ARP shaft is .404" diameter, I don't have the pre-oiler dizzy at the moment maybe someone will post the dizzy stub diameter under the gear. I believe ARP will go in from the top.
Carl....=o&o>....
Found a electronic trigger dizzy in my junk pile, stub bearing is .453" or 29/64". ARP shaft will go in from the top. becareful when removing dizzy next time to not drop the drive into the pan, ya got kucky once.
Carl....=o&o>....
Ditto what Bear said except I glued mine back in with silicone. I used silicone instead of grease because I didn't want to fish the shaft out of the pan AGAIN !!!!
I have a pump drive in the pan the last 100K plus miles, it was a Milodon or Moroso "must have shaft". A moly pipe with allen stubs pressed in, the allen material was full of fractures on the pump end that I recovered. A metallurgist tested it stated it was like glass. The shaft is below the windage tray under pan baffles, I feel safe until the next teardown. This pump drive would not go in from the top.
Carl....=o&o>....
I have a pump drive in the pan the last 100K plus miles, it was a Milodon or Moroso "must have shaft". A moly pipe with allen stubs pressed in, the allen material was full of fractures on the pump end that I recovered. A metallurgist tested it stated it was like glass. The shaft is below the windage tray under pan baffles, I feel safe until the next teardown. This pump drive would not go in from the top.
Carl....=o&o>....
I agree with "Beemer Nut". I have had several engines go many miles with a dist. drive laying in the pan and never had a problem. That includes two drag racing 428CJ's.
thanks for the advice guys. got the gear back into the oil pump using a long flat head and tape. Unfortunatly my truck still does not get spark after new coil and new dizzy. This is driving me nuuuuuuuuuuts. Will an engine fire if the dizzy is installed incorrectly...i think i got it right...didn't crank the engine while the dizzy was out and i think i got the rotor facing the right way....uhhhhhhh.
so, again i go to yous guys for help
360 no spark..died while driving
cranks and the ignition box aftermaket Crane cams HI-6 has power but blinks error signal..
So far replaced coil and dizzy and trying to clean up the wire mess that the previous owner left for me
many thanks
If you have points, get a $10 coil from Advance Auto or Autozone that drops the voltage from 12v to 9v and wire it directly to a 12v ign source just to get you going.
If the dist. is not installed to the #1 position at TDC, it is possible not to have spark or to get it started and have a ton of back firing and no power. This is how I bought the F-100 390 I am driving after they did gasket work.
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