89 overheating when accelerating
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89 overheating when accelerating
My 89 f-150 4x4 is overheating rapidly when I am going uphill,( I live in southeast Arizona- mountain country) or when I'm working the engine. Coasting down long hills or just idling around it takes a very long time to overheat. I pulled the thermostat and it was corroded so I just left it out but it still overheats. I checked the water pump and it's not leaking. How do you check the fan clutch? Is there anything else I should look for? Oh yeah, the radiator is new.
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why am I overheating?
Originally Posted by azwolfman
My 89 f-150 4x4 is overheating rapidly when I am going uphill,( I live in southeast Arizona- mountain country) or when I'm working the engine. Coasting down long hills or just idling around it takes a very long time to overheat. I pulled the thermostat and it was corroded so I just left it out but it still overheats. I checked the water pump and it's not leaking. How do you check the fan clutch? Is there anything else I should look for? Oh yeah, the radiator is new.
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Just wanted to add, the Ford thermostat seemed to work fine in most instances, yet when I took it out it was burned black like a charcol briquet. What was going on I haven't a clue, when I tested it, it opened at 200 degrees. It was a 195 degree thermostat.
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F150 still overheating. HELP!!!
O.K. I've replaced the t'stat with a new 192 degrees t'stat, installed new extreme duty fan clutch, new top and bottom hoses and new bypass hose and water outlet. Filled system, idled up to normal temp, then topped off system. This is a 60/40 coolant to water mixture. Let truck sit idling and it overheated in less than ten minutes. Can somebody tell me what is wrong?
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When you had the t'stat out did you see how the flow was? Does you system hold pressure?
It's hard to see from here. but it has to be a water flow issue, or something hot getting into the coolant system.
It's also possible for a pump to fail and not get the green stuff out the weep hole.
Good luck.
It's hard to see from here. but it has to be a water flow issue, or something hot getting into the coolant system.
It's also possible for a pump to fail and not get the green stuff out the weep hole.
Good luck.
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From: Colville, Washington
You might want to check for flow in the rad while idleing when warm, the water pump might not be circulating the coolant. BTW, running without a themostat will usually make an engine run warmer because the coolant flows so fast it does not have time to transfer heat out of the engine or into the air at the radiator.
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89 overheating
Originally Posted by Popa Tim
If your coolant is bubbling or boiling then it likely a blown head gasket.
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89 overheating
Originally Posted by azwolfman
As bad as I hate it, you're probably right. I was hoping for a bad water pump but I pulled it off and the impellar looks new, no binding, bearings good. There was a lot of muddy looking gunk settled in the two channels on either side of the impellar and the gaskets were in pretty bad shape but the pump itself appeared almost new. If it is the head gasket leaking, what should I expect to pay for repair? I'm afraid this would be a little more than I want to tackle. I'm an electrician, not a mechanic.
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Could simply be that you need to have the radiator rodded/replaced. I've had many older vehicles that I've had to clean the radiator/rod it or replace it.
You can use chemicals like muratic acid to clean radiators out as well, however you have to be real careful, and don't let it sit in the radiator too long. Use a hose to dilute it and wash out thoroughly. Rubber chemical resistant gloves are good etc. You always take a chance with this route, as you may end up buying a new radiator or a trip to a hospital...
The biggest reason to always have a thermostat in, is so that pressure builds up in the coolant system. As pressure rises, the boiling point of water rises as well.
Joel
You can use chemicals like muratic acid to clean radiators out as well, however you have to be real careful, and don't let it sit in the radiator too long. Use a hose to dilute it and wash out thoroughly. Rubber chemical resistant gloves are good etc. You always take a chance with this route, as you may end up buying a new radiator or a trip to a hospital...
The biggest reason to always have a thermostat in, is so that pressure builds up in the coolant system. As pressure rises, the boiling point of water rises as well.
Joel
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backflush the cooling system and see if it helps. You just might have bad flow. Remove the Thermostat when you flush it. Drain it and then add clean water. Run it with heat on full blast for 10 minutes. Drain it agian then add water and prestone flush. run that for 15 or more. After that remove the radiator hose and flush it with clean water in the opposite direction of its operational flow. That way the rush of water will push off all of the scaling and buildup. Make sure you get the whole system to run totaly clean no debris or coolant. Then add 50/50 coolant along with your new thermostat. In did that to my truck although its only 3 years old, the coolant was filthy. I actually left the hose runnning in my resvoir tank and opened the drain valve on my radiator and ran the truck with the heat on. it drained while it was running and ran clear after about 20 minutes straight. Then I did the Prestone flush. I then backflushed.
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From: Shreveport, La.
Please don't be insulted, one of those basics ya gotta ask.
Are you certain you put thermostat in turned the correct direction?
Before install might you have tested it in a pan of water?
Never saw you answer the question about watching to see if the water in radiator is flowing once it gets hot, have you looked and is it?
What type of radiator hoses do you have? Molded or ribbed flex type?
Sometimes, the molded type will cavitate when under pressure and cut off any flow.
Is there any milky substance on the dipstick when you check the oil?
Is radiator cap new? Have you had it and radiator pressure tested?
Are you certain you put thermostat in turned the correct direction?
Before install might you have tested it in a pan of water?
Never saw you answer the question about watching to see if the water in radiator is flowing once it gets hot, have you looked and is it?
What type of radiator hoses do you have? Molded or ribbed flex type?
Sometimes, the molded type will cavitate when under pressure and cut off any flow.
Is there any milky substance on the dipstick when you check the oil?
Is radiator cap new? Have you had it and radiator pressure tested?
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It could be a head gasket issue. If the gasket should rupture between the cylinder and the water jacket. I have seen it where it is only a slight leak and there is no flow into the cylinder as the pressure in the water jacket is far less. However there is usually some foaming of the antifreeze.
IMO the first thing you should do is to pressure test the cooling system. Thats the only way to find out if the system is truely sealed up like it should be.
If it passes that test look for a water flow issue.
IMO the first thing you should do is to pressure test the cooling system. Thats the only way to find out if the system is truely sealed up like it should be.
If it passes that test look for a water flow issue.