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As I was responding to another post it occurred to me how often these little devils rear their ugly heads and the multitude of reactions to them. I see everything from "They suck, why do these trucks need all this electronic crud anyway?" to "Wow, I pulled the codes (or had them pulled) and when I replced the part(s), sensor(s), etc., the problem went away!"
The latter response is a good one to hear because they really DO assist in troubleshooting problems with computer-driven powertrains. For the most part the ONLY thing needed to get them is a PAPERCLIP! If your truck has an EEC (Electronic Engine Control) computer its definitely in your best intertest to learn how to perform the self-tests and obtain the coeds from the on-board computer. They can not only pinpoint the area or system that is causing the trouble, they also eliminate the need to guess at the reason for certain symptoms.
For those who may still be of the mind that electronics are a PITA and should just be avoided, your plight will only be worse if you shy away from the little flashing light that will reveal the source of MOST problems. The KOEO (Key On Engine Off) test is the simplest to perform and will yield information on the major trouble-causing symtoms. If your "Check Engine" light has come on while driving, there WILL be at least one code generated in the KOEO test. The KOER (Key On Engine Running) test is a bit more complicated but can be mastered easily and will show codes that are ONLY generated when the engine is running but may not trigger the "Check Engine" light.
For those of us who grew up dealing with an engine, carburator, points/condenser, and a keen ear for strange noises with the hood up, this is a new idea and would seem an extra, time-consuming step in the repair process. However the exact opposite is the truth of the matter. Example: truck began to run terribly, bogging down, loss of power, barely hit 60 mph on the highway without flooring it. Check the usual suspects, connections, dirty intake system, etc. but pulled the codes immediately when I found nothing obvious. KOEO test was CLEAN! *grumbles* KOER test came back Code 311 & 411 (my EEC computer generates 3-digit codes not two's). I was ready to replace a malfunctioning IAC until then. $69.00 part @ local parts wharehouse. 311 = Thermactor system inoperative during KOER. 411 = PCM unable to control low-end idle during KOER. Started looking at things that were NOT electrical and found a broken air injection check valve AND a disconnected vacuum line to the air injection diverter valve. Replaced check valve for $15.00 = Thermactor system partially operational now. Reconnected vacuum line to diverter valve $0.00 = Thermactor system fully operational AND vacuum leak repaired so low-end idle can now be controlled. Saving $54.00 on truck repairs = well worth pulling the codes and knowing how to do so. So guys who would rather go back to the tried and true method of listneing and guessing, more power to you! For me, I'll take those pesky lil' codes cause the truck was back on the road that afternoon to the tune of $15.00 and an hour and a half of my time.
The latter response is a good one to hear because they really DO assist in troubleshooting problems with computer-driven powertrains. For the most part the ONLY thing needed to get them is a PAPERCLIP! If your truck has an EEC (Electronic Engine Control) computer its definitely in your best intertest to learn how to perform the self-tests and obtain the coeds from the on-board computer. They can not only pinpoint the area or system that is causing the trouble, they also eliminate the need to guess at the reason for certain symptoms.
Dam......I always loved coeds
typo aside........most often when someone posts that they have this problem or that.....most often dirvability.....my FIRST question to them (even before what year etc) is did you check for codes????
Even when my Bronco is running just fine, I check for codes, both KOEO and KOER.......like every oil change or 2500 miles or so. I got sick of using a paper clip, so I went to a test light, now I use one of these.....for $30 well worth it.....and I also have access to a MT2500, and a MODIS. http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=3758
i agree, i have one of those code readers and its definetely worth the money. Its so easy to just hook up, do the tests, and see what codes come up. I check for codes quite often and it takes hardly no time to do it.
Hey i completly agree with you, but which code reader do i need for a 1993 351?
I figured out how to you the check engine light method, but i got all kinds of wierd flashes, and i couldn't figure out how to decode them.
yes i did right them down, and i found the explanation of how to decode them on fordfuelinjection.com but i couldn't decide whether they were right. I only did the KOEO test. I got 2 digit 3 digit 6 sec gaps 4 sec gaps ect................so i just want to get a code reader so i can be sure. THANKS!
Wow, didn't realize the Freudian slip there! If I COULD get "Coeds" from the onboard computer I certainly wouldn't be telling anyone about it...especially the wife. Anyhow, I have a code-reader myself that has long since paid for itself in money saved elsewhere. The paperclip reference was more to show the simplicity and convenience factor.
Wow, didn't realize the Freudian slip there! If I COULD get "Coeds" from the onboard computer I certainly wouldn't be telling anyone about it...especially the wife. Anyhow, I have a code-reader myself that has long since paid for itself in money saved elsewhere. The paperclip reference was more to show the simplicity and convenience factor.
BTW, Streetgang, what IS "dirvability"? Hehehehe.
Thats what happens when your all of a sudden immersed in thoughts of computer generated coeds
Hehehehe, Ya know, up to this point, I had no idea FTE was "that kind of website"! Here, its off topic, but since they are such a nice "distraction" you might enjoy them.
I have a code scanner that reads EEC-IV systems. Now that I have a '96 Bronco it's more or less useless to me. What scanner would you reccomend for my '96 5.8L that doesn't have a hefty price tag on it? Am I correct in assuming it plugs into the port I see in my cabin under the passenger side dash?
[QUOTE=greystreak92]Hehehehe, Ya know, up to this point, I had no idea FTE was "that kind of website"! Here, its off topic, but since they are such a nice "distraction" you might enjoy them.
Let me ask you a quick question.....Ok today I checked for codes on my 93/302, and the first check I had a CM code of 634 MLPS switch out of range. So I cleared it, and rechecked then it was gone.....I had no CEL...so what do you think just a anomaly, or a R&R of the MLPS is coming in the mail?
Everything came back 111, after the reset.
I just want to thank you guys for all the help. My Bronco runs like a youngster again after following Greystreak's code help in prior threads. Greystreak has it down with the paperclip. I could have just attached the paperclip to the ground wires screwed in the fender next to the eec port then slipped the single wire connecter from the eec port on the paperclip. I went to soooo much trouble before by hauling around a screwdriver and jumper wire to pull codes and thinking that was too easy..... Streetgang, I ordered the digital code reader today but not the cable. Do I need the cable? It makes "cents" to check codes frequently when the reader is only about half the price of an hour of shop labor. BTW the prior version of that reader that a parts store used just blinked at me just like the check engine light test does and this one looks easier. Who has time to concentrate on the blinks?
I just want to thank you guys for all the help. My Bronco runs like a youngster again after following Greystreak's code help in prior threads. Greystreak has it down with the paperclip. I could have just attached the paperclip to the ground wires screwed in the fender next to the eec port then slipped the single wire connecter from the eec port on the paperclip. I went to soooo much trouble before by hauling around a screwdriver and jumper wire to pull codes and thinking that was too easy..... Streetgang, I ordered the digital code reader today but not the cable. Do I need the cable? It makes "cents" to check codes frequently when the reader is only about half the price of an hour of shop labor. BTW the prior version of that reader that a parts store used just blinked at me just like the check engine light test does and this one looks easier. Who has time to concentrate on the blinks?
Well you only need the extension cable if you want to be able to do a KOER (key on engine running) test with no body to help you. To do a KOER test you need to have the truck running......and when the code reader tells you to, you have to turn the steering wheel hit the brakes, and also hit the OD off button on the end of the shift stalk. SO..........with the cable, you can sit in the drivers seat and perform all the required steps to start the full KOER test. You could also just have someone else there to tell you when the reader is signaling you to turn the wheel etc.
If the MLPS was somehow not fully engaged or "between positions (electronically that is not necessarily physically) this code could have been generated. Don't know about yours, but my 93's shift lever is pretty sloppy and I have on occasion had to "lift" it to convince the computer that it was actually IN park as I was trying to start it. If this happens, it is possible that the PCM received a "zero voltage" reading from the MLPS which should generate code 634.
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