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One thing I've seen on the newer 6.0's is that the one battery I guess runs the starter, and the other runs the injectors and everything else. The truck would crank and crank until dead. Not sure if its the same case with you though...
Try this. If it happens again, put the jumper cables on the opposite battery that you've been using to jump it. If it cranks and cranks and cranks and nothing comes out of it, you then know that the battery you've been using to jump it is the one thats toasted.
I had this happen to me on my 91 e350. It turned out being a voltage regulator. Alternator tested fine but i couldn't keep the batteries charged. I dunno if they have those on the newer powerstrokes though.
I went to my local autoparts store today and had them test the batteries after I cleaned and tightened the connections. Both of them turned out to be fine. After a ride around town to get the Powerstroke to full operating temps I returned home and turned it off. I then tried to start it back up and to no avail it happened again. Cranked and cranked and cranked and wouldn't catch. I didn't even try to use the jump box again because just last night it happened and the jump box did no good. I had to wait it out and let it cool. Then it started up. So I think that I'm going to rule out the batteries and the alternator as they seemed to check out fine. The weird thing is that it seems like I'm cranking until the batteries are dead but when I come back an hour or so later it cranks like it has fresh batteries in it with out the jumper box, weird...Come Monday I'm going to the International dealer to pick up a new CPS and I'll see if that does anything.
Most batteries are like they. If you crank and crank it will wear out, but come back an hour later and they will be fine. It's not wierd, Just how it all works I guess...
Just checked the DTC's with the SCMT. P0603-Powertrain Control Module KAM error which is probably because of the tuner and P0113-Intake air temp sensor ckt high input. I'm thinking that the latter code might have something to do with my problem. Any thoughts?
Nobody here has mentioned a weak HPOP yet. Still good enough to run the truck and also start it when the oil is cooler and thicker. But when you heat the oil nice and hot and thinner it can't generate enough pressure to drive the injectors. That's my thought.
I went to my local autoparts store today and had them test the batteries after I cleaned and tightened the connections. Both of them turned out to be fine. After a ride around town to get the Powerstroke to full operating temps I returned home and turned it off. I then tried to start it back up and to no avail it happened again. Cranked and cranked and cranked and wouldn't catch. I didn't even try to use the jump box again because just last night it happened and the jump box did no good. I had to wait it out and let it cool. Then it started up. So I think that I'm going to rule out the batteries and the alternator as they seemed to check out fine. The weird thing is that it seems like I'm cranking until the batteries are dead but when I come back an hour or so later it cranks like it has fresh batteries in it with out the jumper box, weird...Come Monday I'm going to the International dealer to pick up a new CPS and I'll see if that does anything.
I assume you disconnected the cables before testing the batteries individually. Otherwise, if the cables were attached, you checked both batteries at the same time and would not get true readings. I had a similar problem to yours a few months back. Turned out that one of the batteries was weak. I replaced that and had no trouble until the CPS went out a couple days ago. My CPS symptoms were a little different. The truck shut off going down the highway. It would restart but only run for 2-3 seconds.
If the CPS is keeping it from starting the tach won't show any RPM's while cranking. If you do have a tach reading the CPS is probably working. If I had to guess I would look towards the starter. I thought mine was working good but I ended up changing it out. It turns over MUCH faster than it used to and my starting problems are cured.
I might also suggest that if the motor doesn't readily start it won't do any good to keep turning it over. If it won't start after 5 seconds of cranking it probably won't start after 30 seconds either.
Load testing is defenitely a good suggestion. Any national parts chain can do it for you, but a small shop may be able to load test through the cables and spot a bad cable also.
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