I've been fooling with a Check Engine Light that first gave me a bad 02 sensor; bank 1 sensor 1 - replaced senser (front, right side). CEL went out for a while and then came back on. Cleaned the MAF; it wasn't very dirty, if at all.

Now getting a P0135 code "Oxy sensor heater circuit bank 1 Sensor 1.

I've got the following info from my scanner:
Fuel trim
Bank 1 Sensor 1--------Bank 2 Sensor 1
Avg. .421|||||||||||||||||||.330
Max .505|||||||||||||||||||.845
Min .220||||||||||||||||||0.000
Diff .285|||||||||||||||||||.845
Rate -.007|||||||||||||||||-.119
Max .036|||||||||||||||||||.358
Min -.036||||||||||||||||||-.385
Freq .158|||||||||||||||||||.119
T(s) 6.314||||||||||||||||||6.319
P-p .020|||||||||||||||||||.615

I hope this comes out ok on the screen and the data is something that can be used by someone who knows what this all means.

I had thought that maybe the wires for the 02 sensor that I replaced may have come out of the connector, but upon inspection they look ok and I wouldn't have been getting any data for that sensor anyway, right?

HELP!

Thanks in advance as always!
Jack

 

Sorry I don't have an answer for you but at least this post will go to the top again. Maybe someone else will be able to give you a good answer.

 

Jack, I don't mean to make a long post, I just want it thorough, If you have any questions after reading this, post it or PM me.
What this codes is: Engine running for 1 minute, then the PCM detected and open or short in th HO2S heater circuit. Now the heater circuit is nothing more than two wires and a portion of wire in the oxygen sensor making up the heater. Either the power or ground wire is open to the sensor for the heater circuit or the heater in the oxygen sensor itself is open or shorted to power or ground in itself (which is most of the time the situation). I made a test connector for this problem to help me track this down, I used an old oxygen sensor and cut off the connector on the sensor side, wired up a small halogen light (a lite that pulls about 1.5 amps) to the power and ground of the heater circuit, unplug the oxygen sensor in question and plug the make shift test connector/lite into the vehicle harness and turn on the ignition key, look for the test light to be lit, if it is lit, that means that you have a power and a ground to the heater circuit at the oxygen sensor connector, if no lite then there is an issue with either the power or the ground coming to the sensor, I don't believe you have a fuse issue though (power feed circuit to the heater), there is to many items that are fed by the two fuses that are in this system, likewise for the ground, So my guess is that your new oxygen sensor is not functioning properly. If you can see data on your scanner, this is how I test the basic heater circuit system, bring up the millivolts for the oxygen sensor in question, then startup the vehicle and watch the millivolts for the sensor in question, the millivolts needs to start rising within 20 seconds after startup (heading toward 900 millivolts (MV)). If the MV does not rise within this time frame, there is a heater circuit issue or a combination of heater circuit and lean fuel, So there is test two to validate the first with the make shift test lite.
Color codes for the heater circuit:
Red on the vehicle is 12 volt power to heater (common)
Red/White on the vehicle is computer ground to the heater
Gray/Yellow on the vehicle harness is oxygen sensor ground (common)
Gray/Light Blue on the vehicle is sensor signal to the computer
These color codes are for bank 1 sensor 1 on a 1998 F150 w/ 5.4 vin L
Hope this helps, Broken wire

 

Thanks to you both for your help. I've been out of town until tonight and I'll get right back to this problem tomorrow night. You guys are great - but you know that already! Thanks and I'll let you know how it works out.
Jack

 

Thanks for jumping in Broken Wire. I guess getting it to the top of the list worked. now hopefully he can get his truck to work.

 

My pleasure. Glad I could help. Broken wire

 

And let me chime in again with thanks. I hate computers but this internet thing is wonderful AND it wouldn't be what it is without guys like you!

 

Hey! I think we did it! At least I hope so. As I was going in to check out the wiring I noticed that the connector wasn't pushed in all of the way. It took me about 1/2 hour to get that darn thing to click in. The starter, tranny dip stick, exhaust heat shield and inner fender all work against getting at the connector. I thought it was connected properly before but I guess it was just wishful thinking. Well, haven't gotten the code in about 40 miles so far. Thanks so much for all of your help!
Jack