Friday I put in new 4 inch exhaust and new turbo blade...now the cruise control wont work. What am I missing? I checked the fuses but to no avail. Anyone have access to the diagram or working knowledge of the cruise control on 2000 crew cab powerstroke? Thanks Troy

 

It's a ford thing, they just randomly work and don't had that same problem on EVERY ford I have ever owned. something with the way they use three wires to do five different things, its weird.


Diesel Rod

 

I'm not sure if it's true on a Superduty, but on an OBS truck, if the third brake light bulb burns out, it'll disable the cruise control.

 

Hmmm interesting, how long it take you to figure that out....have to check that out cuz my '97 quit also, but it was at the same time I installed my chip so I think thats it.


Diesel Rod

 

I didn't actually "figure it out", but learned it on a forum. Apparently, Ford realized that you'd never know if your third brake light burned out, so they put this feature in as a safety measure.

 

Well I did have a chip in it and the cruise was working fine and the third light has been out for about 6 months now. I was actually wondering if there is a wiring or vacuum line somewhere near the turbo that i knocked loose but cant see..thanks for any help.

 

Me too!

I just put in my WW and now my CC doesn't work! Any ideas?

 

Check the end of the brake master cylinder and be sure you didnt knock the connector off the sensor.

 

I agree with John. My sensor went out last year and the cruise stoped working. I got it from the dealer for 20.00 and it comes with a pigtail to connect to the old wireing. Just take the sensor out and put the other in, it will not leak fluid.

If this is the problem. ???

 

Kudos for using the search button, this is a three year old thread.
^^^^^ What they both said, I would think. ^^^^^

 

I didn't even notice Dan. lol

 

no mechanical connections to anything BUT the PCM. You can't inadvertantly disconnect stuff under the hood because it is all fly by wire.

places to look: adjustment on the clutch position sensor, brake sensor, inside fuse box for a blown 20 amp, (I think # 13), clock spring connector

See if the horn works, and you might have to do a full blown reset on the computer

 

That's exactly what I did!

Pulled my 6637 out the way, reached around the master cylinder, and there it was......

Now my CC works and I'm happy again. Rep points to y'all for helping me with out!

 

Found this for my 2000 taurus with OBDII, not sure if it applies. HTH's

CC self-test

This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in PARK only with the parking brake fully engaged.

Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control actuator switch OFF while turning the ignition switch to the RUN position, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator in the instrument cluster will flash once to indicate that the speed control servo entered the diagnostic mode.

Note:
Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo.

Release the OFF switch.

Note:
If the speed control actuator switch ON is not pressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostic mode, the speed control servo times out and the procedure must be started over.

Depress the remaining speed control actuator switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST, and SET/ACCEL. The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each speed control actuator switch is depressed. Press each speed control actuator switch in the sequence immediately after the speed control indicator lamp goes out for the previous switch.

A speed control indicator lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the speed control indicator lamp does not flash with the last speed control actuator switch and there are no additional flashes of the speed control indicator, the speed control actuator switch is defective. If the speed control indicator does not flash with the last speed control actuator switch, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for flash codes:

— 2 flashes - BPP switch is defective, circuit is defective, or brake pedal is applied.

— 3 flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit is defective.

Immediately after the static test has passed, the speed control servo will then carry out a dynamic test automatically by actuating the throttle lever from 1mm to 10 mm of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe the throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of speed control actuator cable, correct connection of the speed control actuator cable to throttle lever, and ensure throttle returns back to idle position. If incorrect connection and/or binding or sticking of speed control actuator cable is observed, REPAIR or INSTALL a new speed control actuator cable, REFER to «Speed Control Cable—3.0 (2V)» in this section.

Return ignition switch to the OFF position and go to the Symptom Chart.


Symptom Chart

Note:
The Self-Test Diagnostics must be carried out before proceeding to the Symptom Chart.

Note:
New speed control diagnostic software is available on some scan tools.

Note:
Refer to Wiring Diagrams for connector numbers stated in the pinpoint test.


Condition(s):

o Flash code 1 — system pass

o Flash code 1 — with last switch depressed and no dynamic pull occurs at the throttle

o Flash code 1 — dynamic pull occurs at throttle and speed control inoperative

o Flash code 2—brake pedal position switch or circuit failure

o Flash code 3—deactivator switch or circuit failure

 

Thanks lee, but the self test only works on the gas motors. The diesel motor requires a scanner hooked up to it and run a switch test.