Wont start, when hot.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 84
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From: south of ST.L
Wont start, when hot.
This post is for a buddie of mine, He has an 92 F-150 I6, 5 speed, 2wd, 213,000 on the clock. After he has run the truck and it is hot, and he kills it or shuts if off, it dont start. It will turn over as if had a dead battery, Really slow. Now he has replaced, the battery, the starter 3 times, cable going to the starter, solenoid, alternator, and maybe a few other things that im forgetting. Now if he lets it sit for a while it will start right up. He has had this problem for about the past 20,000 miles. He thinks he ruled out the starter, since he tried 3. Now is there something we havent looked at?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 24,418
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
Just a thought but how about vapor lock or maybe if there's a computer some where under the hood that might be shutting down when it gets hot under the hood. Is the exhaust system maybe to close to the starter?
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 84
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From: south of ST.L
The exhaust is stock, so I dont see why it would be over heating the starter. The starter's never went bad. He just replaced them thinking that would be the problem.
ECU, Electronic/Engine Control Module? Now is this the same a the computer?
As for the timing, I have listen to it and it dont sound like it is out of time. Now im pretty sure he would of changed out the ignition coil. Ill check with him on that. Now Vapor Lock, I have heard this many times, but exactly what is it?
ECU, Electronic/Engine Control Module? Now is this the same a the computer?
As for the timing, I have listen to it and it dont sound like it is out of time. Now im pretty sure he would of changed out the ignition coil. Ill check with him on that. Now Vapor Lock, I have heard this many times, but exactly what is it?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 1
From: Venezuela
ECM=Electronic Control Module in that truck it names EEC-IV=Electronic Engine Control-4, also known as "computer" 
ECU=Electronic Control Unit
Since 1987, no power to controller means engine doesn't run...
ECU=Electronic Control Unit
Since 1987, no power to controller means engine doesn't run...
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 446
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From: South Bend, IN
So is the issue "it won't crank", or "it won't start"?
Since it has a manual tranny, park it on a moderate grade when hot and see if you can roll start it in high. If it takes right off and goes that way, that would narrow it down to an electrical problem in the start circuit. If so get out the voltmeter and go to work. See if you have a good 10 volts+ right at the starter when you are trying to start it hot. If not, work back toward the battery till you find the voltage drop. If you have at least 10 volts at the starter and it still won't crank, look for a bad starter or a bad ground, like grease/oil between the starter and the bell housing or no lockwashers on the mounting bolts.
Vapor lock wouldn't cause a slow crank problem, but it might cause a "cranks but doesn't start" problem.
Post back and let us know what you find.
Brian
Since it has a manual tranny, park it on a moderate grade when hot and see if you can roll start it in high. If it takes right off and goes that way, that would narrow it down to an electrical problem in the start circuit. If so get out the voltmeter and go to work. See if you have a good 10 volts+ right at the starter when you are trying to start it hot. If not, work back toward the battery till you find the voltage drop. If you have at least 10 volts at the starter and it still won't crank, look for a bad starter or a bad ground, like grease/oil between the starter and the bell housing or no lockwashers on the mounting bolts.
Vapor lock wouldn't cause a slow crank problem, but it might cause a "cranks but doesn't start" problem.
Post back and let us know what you find.
Brian
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: south of ST.L
When hot it cranks very slow, just like when you battery is just about dead.. Ill see him this weekend hopefully and try out the voltage meter. Ill keep you posted.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 497
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From: Houston TX
Hummm...Is kinda weird...I'd check the voltage, but
for some reason I suspect a big drag from the engine...
Almost like a semi hydro lock or something....Weird,
considering the starter, etc, etc, have been changed...
See how the headlights compare when starting cold/hot..
A big drag on the starter, causing it to pull some heavy
current, should really dim the lights...In theory...There is
no such thing as vapor lock with a EFI...The fuel pump
should pressurize the system within seconds of turning the
key...So unless something is broke, normally you can't vapor
lock an EFI system. Too much pressure...And even if you had
a fuel delivery problem, that shouldn't cause a engine/starter
drag...Almost makes me wonder if a head gasket is getting
flaky and letting water into the system??...Does any water vanish
from the radiator or bottle? Does it eventually start when it does
that, or does he have to let it cool off?
MK
for some reason I suspect a big drag from the engine...
Almost like a semi hydro lock or something....Weird,
considering the starter, etc, etc, have been changed...
See how the headlights compare when starting cold/hot..
A big drag on the starter, causing it to pull some heavy
current, should really dim the lights...In theory...There is
no such thing as vapor lock with a EFI...The fuel pump
should pressurize the system within seconds of turning the
key...So unless something is broke, normally you can't vapor
lock an EFI system. Too much pressure...And even if you had
a fuel delivery problem, that shouldn't cause a engine/starter
drag...Almost makes me wonder if a head gasket is getting
flaky and letting water into the system??...Does any water vanish
from the radiator or bottle? Does it eventually start when it does
that, or does he have to let it cool off?
MK
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 129
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From: Augusta, Maine
SIMPLTE THINGS TO CHECK!
Dirty, Loose Ground Wire/Cable connection to Engine Block. Battery, Engine and Chassis must always be solidly grounded. I have seen similar problems in the past. If you have an ohmeter the resistance should be almost zero ohms.
Once argued and argued with my cousin that he had a bad ground. He woudn't listen to me until he melted the throttle cable to oblivion. The starter circuit found ground through the throttle cable, since the original ground connection on the block was corroded.
Could also be that the timing is advanced. Mark the distributor, where it's at now, and then retard the timing just a hair.
Dirty, Loose Ground Wire/Cable connection to Engine Block. Battery, Engine and Chassis must always be solidly grounded. I have seen similar problems in the past. If you have an ohmeter the resistance should be almost zero ohms.
Once argued and argued with my cousin that he had a bad ground. He woudn't listen to me until he melted the throttle cable to oblivion. The starter circuit found ground through the throttle cable, since the original ground connection on the block was corroded.
Could also be that the timing is advanced. Mark the distributor, where it's at now, and then retard the timing just a hair.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 55
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From: sanford,nc
jwilson0265
timing,,that could be it,my will do that if the timing is set to high.mark your distributor.and then move it up or counterclockwise,and see if that better.if not move the other way[clockwise] and past your mark,move it till it runs and starts the best,this mite work for you.and good luck.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
The starter is getting to hot. Even with the stock exhaust. Get some header wrap and wrap the pipes / manifold next to the starter and get a starter blanket.
I also had the same problem for years and went threw starters, batteries, ect. On my 89 with a 300, all stock.
I also had the same problem for years and went threw starters, batteries, ect. On my 89 with a 300, all stock.