?Bad Alternator?
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Joined: Feb 2000
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?Bad Alternator?
The Voltmeter on my 1988 F150 302/EFI/AOD will drop to about 10-11 volts after driving about 10 miles. The battery light then comes on. If I shift to neutral and rev-up the engine, it will very momentarily go off (battery light). I replaced the battery about 3 months ago. Is this the alternator going bad as it heats up? If so, what do you recommend in a replacement (brand, etc). Thanks
Rob
Rob
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Joined: Jul 1999
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?Bad Alternator?
Rob ,
Check the alternator output , It should be 12 to 14V . As for the replacement , the original has lasted 12yrs ...My opinion , Go with a Ford one . Ive seen too many of these aftermarket ones , even with the lifetime warranties ,die after 2 yrs .
Paul
Check the alternator output , It should be 12 to 14V . As for the replacement , the original has lasted 12yrs ...My opinion , Go with a Ford one . Ive seen too many of these aftermarket ones , even with the lifetime warranties ,die after 2 yrs .
Paul
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Joined: May 2000
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?Bad Alternator?
Rob, I went through this last weekend myself. First, check voltage at the battery to make sure your voltage gage is OK.
Ford uses two output wires from the alternator to the battery...each apparently is connected to half of the alternator windings. Mine was half-bad...one winding was ok, the other was blown.
I think you're talking new alternator.
hth
steve in tx
Ford uses two output wires from the alternator to the battery...each apparently is connected to half of the alternator windings. Mine was half-bad...one winding was ok, the other was blown.
I think you're talking new alternator.
hth
steve in tx
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Joined: Mar 2000
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?Bad Alternator?
FYI, be prepared to do some soldering, and the job taking some time when replacing that alternator. You probably have one of the "bad idea" alternators. Those were the ones that the high-current output of the alternator came out via a plugable connector, instead of a wire on a bolt-type stud and nut connection. The problem with the connector is that it would lose its tight grip, and resistance would go up, sometimes burning up wire or connector. The replacement alternators usually come with a conversion kit to avoid the connector problem. Ford went back to a setup more like they used to have, with a stud and nut connection. That really is a trouble-free idea.
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