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Right now my truck is basiclly going to crap. About 6 months ago I wrecked it, and messed up my steering box and a few other things. They put new ball joints in, pulled a steering box out of a car, out of a junk yard. This threw off my turning. It turns a lot easier than it did before, but when you turn the wheel to much it makes a really wierd sound.
My rotors got messed up in the wreck, and my guess was the tire shop machined them. It was really smooth riding for a while but now it feels like the rotors are warped again? Is this likely within 6 months?
I recently put ES3000 shocks on it, and after I did that I noticed a squeeking quiet a bit. Is it just the shock boots rubbing possibly?
I know my torque converter is going out along with my transmission which is another $1100 to fix.
Along with this, when I accelerate/make a turn I hear a small chirping sound. Is this a u-joint going out?
On top of this I was planning on purchasing some mud tires this month. I could always trade this truck in with a couple thousand and get something decent, but I really like this truck. What seems like the best way to go. The engine seems solid *knock on wood*, but It is wrecked and the frame is slightly bent so I'm pretty sure it really isn't worth it to sell it.
Edit:Went out to just confirm these sounds and none of them happened this time. Only problem it has is the torque converter chatter. I think I am going to hold off on tires for now. Maybe look into a new rebuilt steering box off broncograveyard.com along with a 4" lift. But my truck does squeek quiet a bit, even in non bouncy areas. Seems like it started that after I put the shocks on.
If you noticed the squeak right after installing the shocks, then thats probably where the noise is coming from. Try spraying some lube on the shock bushings, if the squeak goes away you know where the problem is.
Check the torque converter bolts, might have come loose and need tightened. This will cause a rattle or knock.
Turned rotors will warp much easier than new ones, because they are thinner. If they are warped, replace them.
If you noticed the squeak right after installing the shocks, then thats probably where the noise is coming from. Try spraying some lube on the shock bushings, if the squeak goes away you know where the problem is.
K I'll get some tomorrow and see what happens.
Check the torque converter bolts, might have come loose and need tightened. This will cause a rattle or knock.
Ok I'll check this out this weekend and see
Turned rotors will warp much easier than new ones, because they are thinner. If they are warped, replace them.
Ok, went up to 4wheel parts to pick up my steering stabalizer, ect. $100 for slotted rotors a piece, hopefully I'll be picking them up soon.
On the way home I noticed that squeak that might be coming from the bushing usually only happens when I accelerate, and will kinda be there sometimes when I let of the gas.
Still think this is the bushings?
eurathane (sp?) bushing can be very load when it comes to sqeaking. I would spray the bushing (inside where the mounting bolts contact) with like a graphite dry lube. That may help. There may be other things you can spray on them but I believe graphite to be the easiest on the bushings. Hope that helps.
Went up to napa and picked up some spray for the bushings, oil and a filter. The shake from 35-50 went down to about 30-40ish. Is this the torque converter or is it a bad U-Joint? My last question is I am sometimes hearing a tick, tick, tick when I turn the wheel and accelerate a bit. Would this be in the front end? Not sure why since all the ball joints, and im pretty sure bearings where replaced from the wreck. Could it be a bad wheel bearing?
I have heard the noise from bad u-joints move in the MPH range. It very well could be the U-joints. The vibration is felt through the steering wheel. Also a bad alignment could cause bad wear on the tires which would cause vibration. A lost wheel weight would cause an unbalanced tire which would vibrate. My friend had all three of those problems on her 4x4. A few days later the U-joint snapped at the back axle. The drive shaft fell while the vehicle was in motion. The tail shaft on the transfer was busted off and the tranny housing was cracked. Both had to be replaced.
Thanks. Im gettin a new set of tires pretty soon so I will hold off on the alignment till than. Anyway to inspect if the u-joints bad? Ill check the haynes manual that I have and see if that says anything.
U-joints don't cost that much. If I remember correctly it was like $20 for the set to do the rear drive shaft. I usually just replace them if I think they may be bad. It's one of those parts you DON'T want to wait until it breaks to replace.
Were your rims replaced after the wreck, if not, one of them could be bent and causing your vibration. You might try rotating the front wheels to the back to see if it helps any.
In the wreck the front right wheel got bent pretty bad and they had to replace that/the tire. The rear right wheel looked to be good, and when driving it you couldn't notice it was bent at all. Turns out it was bent to hell.
Im gonna hold off on the rotating tire things, due to the fact theres a set of 35"x13.5"x16 ME baja claws 4 w/ 80% tread, and one with 100% tread for $550.
I took my truck on a quick test drive today to clarify the problem. When I accelerate it sounds like it has a exhaust leak so at first I figured my local exhaust shop did a bad job, but when in park and I rev it, it doesn't make the sound. But when I accelerate it makes a exhaust leak type sound. It is in ratio with the RPMS, but kinda seems like it quites out after 2nd gear.