Engine Problems need Help.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Tucson
Engine Problems need Help.
Well Truck 1 Me 0. I have a 2000 F-250 with the 5.4L
Problem is when I floor it, it will fall on its face and sputter until it gets up in the higher RPMS. I had a Predator program in it and have taken it out to see if it went away. It didnt. It is not throwing a light, and no codes. Only codes I have are a P1000 which I dont know how to get rid of that either. I clear the codes and it will come right back. How long do you need to drive to get rid of a P1000.
So The truck hesitates and sputters until up in higher RPMs if you floor it.
Is it coils? Plugs? Fuel? I cant figure it out and I do not want to start throwing parts at it. Is this what they do before they blow out a plug? or after? unfortunatly I am in a cast right now so I cant climb up and look in there and I hate to pay the stealership for something I can fix in a few weeks. But it is bugging me!
Thank you all in advance!
Problem is when I floor it, it will fall on its face and sputter until it gets up in the higher RPMS. I had a Predator program in it and have taken it out to see if it went away. It didnt. It is not throwing a light, and no codes. Only codes I have are a P1000 which I dont know how to get rid of that either. I clear the codes and it will come right back. How long do you need to drive to get rid of a P1000.
So The truck hesitates and sputters until up in higher RPMs if you floor it.
Is it coils? Plugs? Fuel? I cant figure it out and I do not want to start throwing parts at it. Is this what they do before they blow out a plug? or after? unfortunatly I am in a cast right now so I cant climb up and look in there and I hate to pay the stealership for something I can fix in a few weeks. But it is bugging me!
Thank you all in advance!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,859
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From: USA
Do you have a scan tool that can read misfires?
good scan readers do, an can point to the cylinders that are misfiring,if its ignition coils.
I would also ask,have you changed your fuel filter?
Then I would chk the fuel pump pressure
How is the idle? rough or searching ? IAC valve.
Is this doing it after completely warmed up or only when cold in the morning?
last thing bad gas!
I guess we can throw out
maf sensor and tps sensor because your not seeing any codes.
Rich
good scan readers do, an can point to the cylinders that are misfiring,if its ignition coils.
I would also ask,have you changed your fuel filter?
Then I would chk the fuel pump pressure
How is the idle? rough or searching ? IAC valve.
Is this doing it after completely warmed up or only when cold in the morning?
last thing bad gas!
I guess we can throw out
maf sensor and tps sensor because your not seeing any codes.
Rich
Last edited by FortyFords; May 4, 2005 at 07:44 AM.
Elder User
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From: NJ ... the garbage state
how many miles on truck? all good things to check mentioned by fortyfords, just might help if anyone else has any thoughts to know how many miles and what service has ever been done (plugs or anything of the sort)
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: USA
the p1000 code is a code that is thrown,if the pcm(on board computer OBDII )doesn't complete its monitoring cycle.It happens when the battery is disconnected before enough drive cycles are completed so the pcm can do its comparison of stored internal values.
If you need more info,I can explain further
Rich
If you need more info,I can explain further
Rich
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
An engine, the PCM, nor any of its components can "sense" that a plug will blow - I don't know if that will make you feel better or not... 
Can you feel a slight "quiver" in the engine when going to WOT? It could be the EGR (Exhaust Gas Return).
Other than that:
IAC as Rich mentioned along with bad gas
You may have faulty COP's (coils) where they are not at full voltage, but enough not to throw a code.
Injectors may be slighty clogged.
A Drivability Test using a WDS (worldwide diagnostic system) would be my plan of action. This procedure usually requires a good tech with patience in order to complete the test fully. Hope you have one nearby.
Can you feel a slight "quiver" in the engine when going to WOT? It could be the EGR (Exhaust Gas Return).
Other than that:
IAC as Rich mentioned along with bad gas
You may have faulty COP's (coils) where they are not at full voltage, but enough not to throw a code.
Injectors may be slighty clogged.
A Drivability Test using a WDS (worldwide diagnostic system) would be my plan of action. This procedure usually requires a good tech with patience in order to complete the test fully. Hope you have one nearby.
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From: Tucson
Ok well here is what has been done. the truck has 93K on the clock. All repairs have been done less than 3kmiles.
Sparkplugs, Bosch Platnums
Cleaned out TB with cleaner
Fuel Filter
It only occurs at WOT and doesnt matter if it is warm or cold, and happens at the beginning of WOT then goes away. Its like a hesitation and then gets going.
I got the engine wet a while ago and took all the coils out and sprayed them with WD-40, but didnt really help the problem. I dont know! I have the Diablo Predator and I can scan and data log but I dont know what to watch.
Idle is smooth but when truck is cold sometimes it starts and stalls and takes another try. Not sure if that could be related.
Gas mileage is like 9mpg (have big tires)
Sparkplugs, Bosch Platnums
Cleaned out TB with cleaner
Fuel Filter
It only occurs at WOT and doesnt matter if it is warm or cold, and happens at the beginning of WOT then goes away. Its like a hesitation and then gets going.
I got the engine wet a while ago and took all the coils out and sprayed them with WD-40, but didnt really help the problem. I dont know! I have the Diablo Predator and I can scan and data log but I dont know what to watch.
Idle is smooth but when truck is cold sometimes it starts and stalls and takes another try. Not sure if that could be related.
Gas mileage is like 9mpg (have big tires)
Last edited by hc130flyboy; May 4, 2005 at 01:12 PM.
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From: Tucson
As for the P1000 what can I do to clear it and make the truck pull codes.
I drove the truck from AZ to Dallas TX and back, P1000 Still there!
I drove the truck from AZ to Dallas TX and back, P1000 Still there!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
Okay, Dan, you say you cleaned the TB with cleaner. What did you do, exactly? Could you see the EGR port? Or did you just clean the TB in place? Also, did you remove the intake tube? Sometimes you disturb the MAF sensor and get it gritty during the process - if it wasn't dirty to begin with. I would remove it and clean it - but be real careful when cleaning the MAF sensor. Use some sort of good cleaner like Gumout or STP air intake/TB cleaner. You will need good clean air to dry it off if possible.
Also, did you disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 15 to 20 minutes so that the PCM can reset? It needs to rebuild the data tables after repairs.
Do you have a Chilton's or Haynes manual? One or both is a big help.
As I stated earlier - you might save quite a bit of time if you go the WDS route. Costs vary, I assure you, but it's worth it. Around here the cost is from $45 to $60, but I have heard other places charge upward to $80.
Also, did you disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 15 to 20 minutes so that the PCM can reset? It needs to rebuild the data tables after repairs.
Do you have a Chilton's or Haynes manual? One or both is a big help.
As I stated earlier - you might save quite a bit of time if you go the WDS route. Costs vary, I assure you, but it's worth it. Around here the cost is from $45 to $60, but I have heard other places charge upward to $80.
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Thread Starter
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From: Tucson
Ron,
When I cleaned the TB I used Gumout and rotated the butterfly and sprayed in the hole and also cleaned out what I think is the EGR that is off the right side of the hole, I did infact take off the Intake Tube, I am also running a Brand New never re-oiled K&N. I cleaned the wire on the MAF with Gumout as well. I just disconnected the Neg battery cable last night and let it go (still disconnected) I think what I am going to do next is replace the plugs with Motorcrafts instead of the Bosch Platnums. I have heard Fords dont like Bosch's. I do have a chiltons but its Troubleshooting is covers everything I have done already. Only other thing is I have a Rotten Egg Smell coming from the exhaust when at oppertating temp. I think this indicates I am burning the Sulfer out of the CAT. Is that due to a Lean Condition or Too Rich?
Thanks
Dan
When I cleaned the TB I used Gumout and rotated the butterfly and sprayed in the hole and also cleaned out what I think is the EGR that is off the right side of the hole, I did infact take off the Intake Tube, I am also running a Brand New never re-oiled K&N. I cleaned the wire on the MAF with Gumout as well. I just disconnected the Neg battery cable last night and let it go (still disconnected) I think what I am going to do next is replace the plugs with Motorcrafts instead of the Bosch Platnums. I have heard Fords dont like Bosch's. I do have a chiltons but its Troubleshooting is covers everything I have done already. Only other thing is I have a Rotten Egg Smell coming from the exhaust when at oppertating temp. I think this indicates I am burning the Sulfer out of the CAT. Is that due to a Lean Condition or Too Rich?
Thanks
Dan
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
I have heard good and bad about the Bosch, but not enough to judge them. I always stay with the Motorcraft platinum’s to be safe.
I would still take another look at the MAF sensor first; just to make sure it's not damaged. Then I would have to check the EGR and the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor (DPFE). – I think the DPFE readings at idle are around 0.6 volts, but I’m not sure.
Fred or Rich – are you reading this? Keep me in line here…
Another thing, since you have the rotten egg smell, which indicates that the fuel mixture is rich (and that the cat is working overtime), is to check the O2 sensors.
I would still take another look at the MAF sensor first; just to make sure it's not damaged. Then I would have to check the EGR and the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor (DPFE). – I think the DPFE readings at idle are around 0.6 volts, but I’m not sure.
Fred or Rich – are you reading this? Keep me in line here…
Another thing, since you have the rotten egg smell, which indicates that the fuel mixture is rich (and that the cat is working overtime), is to check the O2 sensors.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
The bosch plugs are junk I put them in two vehicles and had to take em out cause the two vehicles ran like shhhhhhhttttttt. I have never seen that B4 with a plug so I thought it was odd...Just my exp, thought you might like to know.
Dick
Dick
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From: Lowell, MA
If you had Predator program in there and then removed it, and, according to Fortyfords, the P1000 code indicates that the computor is not completeing it's monitoring cycle, you can look at what the common components are and you are left with the brain box itself. Sometimes these programable I.C.s are not as robust as one would like. Very possibly the device was damaged by the previous programming and deprogramming. You may need to bite the bullet and bring it to the dealer
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From: Tucson
It had the P1000 when the program was installed, I have since removed the program and disconnected the Neg Bat lead, I will hook it up and see if the truck tells me something is wrong. I cant figure it out. I have used the scan tool in the past and It has showed normal numbers and figures. So In what ordershould I start with checking?
Plugs first, MAF, IAC, EGR, O2,ECU?
Thank you all for your inputs, I might have to suck it up and go to the stealership! Man I hate doing that!
Plugs first, MAF, IAC, EGR, O2,ECU?
Thank you all for your inputs, I might have to suck it up and go to the stealership! Man I hate doing that!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,859
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From: USA
I have no expeirence with aftermarket chips or programers
Remove the diablo programer or chip and go back to stock.run for a couple drive cycles (that means drive above 40mph or higher shut off and do it it again a few more times) .
If you have damaged the pcm or any sensors the chk engine light should show up
soon after.
Then get a scanner or go to the dealer.Or find an autozone that will pull any codes for free.
also get rid of the bosch plugs!
Big -orn's advice is correct,though most of the time if dpfe sensor or egr or even the maf go bad or get dirty they will throw codes.
The rotten egg smell is a rich condition.The pcm could be damaged an has now gone to closed loop or limp mode.
Most of this is speculation based on what your telling us.
Rich
Remove the diablo programer or chip and go back to stock.run for a couple drive cycles (that means drive above 40mph or higher shut off and do it it again a few more times) .
If you have damaged the pcm or any sensors the chk engine light should show up
soon after.
Then get a scanner or go to the dealer.Or find an autozone that will pull any codes for free.
also get rid of the bosch plugs!
Big -orn's advice is correct,though most of the time if dpfe sensor or egr or even the maf go bad or get dirty they will throw codes.
The rotten egg smell is a rich condition.The pcm could be damaged an has now gone to closed loop or limp mode.
Most of this is speculation based on what your telling us.
Rich
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 475
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From: La Habra, CA
P1000 can take a long time to go away. It must have been close to 2000 miles for me.
My understanding is p1000 will show until the drive cycle is done, or until a code is thrown.
Hopefully your catalytic converter isn't bad.
If it was in limp home mode or closed loop mode you should definetely have a check engine light. You would know if it was in limp home, because that's exactly what it would feel like.
My understanding is p1000 will show until the drive cycle is done, or until a code is thrown.
Hopefully your catalytic converter isn't bad.
If it was in limp home mode or closed loop mode you should definetely have a check engine light. You would know if it was in limp home, because that's exactly what it would feel like.