eec problems
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eec problems
i was wandering if my eec is bad because when i try to get the troble codes the check engine light just stays lit continuosly ive also tried cheking for codes by using hooking up a voltmeter as shown in my haynes manual but i still cant get anything and i know im hooking up right cause i tried it on another truck and it will throw the codes so my question is if the eec is bad will it cause the problems im having with getting no codes
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okay the truck is a 1987 f150 xlt lariet i tried to do the check with the clutch mashed in the whole time still didnt work could it be my computer is just messed up becuz when i went to get the truk they stuck another battery in it to crank it and then tried to put the dead battery back in and the cables touched could this be what fried my computer . ps i was just told about the whole battery cables touching today
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thanks im gonna try it again tommorow just to be sure but if not i can get a computer for like 30 bucks if the place has the right one. but im pretty sure im doing it right because ive tried using the faq on fordfuelinjection.com and my haynes manual and i couldnt get it to do anything plus something keeps killing the batteryso now i gotta charge it.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
You are looking at the red "Engine" light (comes on when there's no oil pressure, i.e. engine off). There is no "Check engine" light to blink on an '87. You have to use the volt meter method to pull the codes unless you wire in the check engine light in the dash. I highly doubt that your computer is bad, and if it is, it is too soon to be condemning it. What engine and transmission do you have?
For volt meter method: connect jumper between STI and SIG RTN (ground), then connect a volt meter between the positive battery post and STO wire on the self test connector. Turn the key on and count the sweeps of the volt meter (analog volt meter).
For volt meter method: connect jumper between STI and SIG RTN (ground), then connect a volt meter between the positive battery post and STO wire on the self test connector. Turn the key on and count the sweeps of the volt meter (analog volt meter).
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; May 4, 2005 at 11:47 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
When jumpered correctly (and the computer is functioning correctly), the check engine light (volt meter) should show 12V when you hook it up, then drop to zero the instant you turn the key on. Did you try that method with the clutch pedal depressed? Are there any other things that the computer is doing (or not doing) that would suggest it has failed? It could be broken, but it seems like there is something else going on than a failed computer (although I wouldn't rule it out).
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; May 5, 2005 at 06:41 AM.
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wel lets see none of the fuel pump circuitry is getting any power and yes ive tried that method with the clutch depressed. the haynes manual i have has a checklist to of points to check so u can fine the short in the fuel system and the first few steps pass fine then i get to the step that has sumthin to do with computer and it want work and the reason it gives for that wire not responding is (possible eec failure) so i dont if its messed up or not. but thanks for all ur help i really appreciate it alot