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My Expolrer is a 2001 and I want to do the brakes myself. I installing new Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads. Does anyone know if the caliber bracket has to come off or do the rotors tap off.
The front rotors can be removed after removing the caliper bracket. The bracket torque specs are 73-97 Ft#s / the caliper bolt torque specs are 21-26 ft#s ( I use red loctite on the bracket bolt and blue loctite on the caliper bolt)
I found that the rotors needed some convincing to remove. Hammer the hat in between the studs to loosen the rust. I also shot some liquid wrench in the stud holes. The rotors could not be re-used when I finally got them off.
The rear rotors only require the caliper to be removed and the retainer washers on the studs, the cal. bolt specs are 20 ft#s. The manual states that you need to back off the parking brake pads to remove the rotors. The adjustor hole is on the backside top, under the rubber plug "clockwise(down) on the driver's side and counterclockwise(up) on the passenger side." If you get resistance then go the other way.
EDIT: Be sure to re-lube the glide pins. If they are rusted clean them with sandpaper and re-lube them with caliper grease.
Last edited by drcoffee; Apr 30, 2005 at 05:33 PM.
I'm trying to replace the rear disks myself right now ('99 XLT 4x4). I cant seem to get the rotor off the passenger side. It seems that it's binding against the parking brake shoes, but I cant seem to get the parking brake adjustor (which is below the axel on my truck) to move in any direction.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Also when I got the rotor off the drivers side I found this:
There is a lot of greasy stuff all over the inside of the rotor and inner components. Does anyone know where this would have come from. Bearings maybe?
Thanks
Is it brake fluid or differential lube? I almost appears to b a leak rom the caliper fome the first photo. The calipers are cheap at auto zone, I just paid $25 for a new rebuilt unit. Check the caliper and let us know. But you'll definately need new pads now.
You'll want it to rotate up on the passenger side so get a screwdriver in there and tap with a hammer. Once you get the adjustor rotated all the closed then hammer the sides of the rotor hat to free the pads from the inside surface.
I don't think it's the caliper. The only place that the gunk is covering in that area is the brake pad, there's none on the boot of the caliper. It looks like the fluid is coming down from somewhere in the center of the wheel. It seems that as the wheel is turning it's spraying the stuff up where it hits the brake's and covers the pads.
So maybe it's differential lube? How do I tell and how would I begine to fix that?
Well the fluid is coming from the axel so I guess it's the seal. I'll have to go and get new pads now? I can't just clean it off?
The silly adjustor for the parking brake still will not turn for me...guess i'll just have to be more stubborn than it is.
I don't think it's the caliper. The only place that the gunk is covering in that area is the brake pad, there's none on the boot of the caliper. It looks like the fluid is coming down from somewhere in the center of the wheel. It seems that as the wheel is turning it's spraying the stuff up where it hits the brake's and covers the pads.
So maybe it's differential lube? How do I tell and how would I begine to fix that?
I believe this one is best left to the experts. In order to remove the axle to R&R the bearing and seal it requires you open and drain the rear end, pull the pinion shaft, C-clip on the axle shaft and remove the axle from the wheel end of the axle housing with a special puller tool. Then pound in a new bearing and seal with a large socket or special tool then re-assemble everything. It looks somewhat involved and you really should have a good shop manual before you begin.