Waterpump change
New User
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6
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Waterpump change
Hey all. I'm in the middle of replacing the waterpump on my 88 F150 with 300 I-6 and 5 Sp Mazda tranny. I've reached roadblock with the fan clutch and need advise on how to remove so I can get at the waterpump bolts. Apparently, mine is screwed into the face of the waterpump and per my Hayne's manual, I need a special order tool from Ford. I don't want to buy this tool as I'm sure a large enough wrench will work. Does anyone know what the size of this nut is? Also, how can I keep the waterpump from turning when I put pressure on this nut?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,345
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From: NorCal
Waterpump change
That fan clutch nut can be a bit of a road block, but there's a few things you do. One is buy the tool set at Napa, mine ran $34 and I've used it in a few other places. Other people on this site have found other less enpensive ways. Some use a long flat tip screw driver wedged between the water pump pulley bolts and a large wrench (mine was 1 3/8"). Just be sure to turn it the right way. I've heard large channel locks and cresent wrench's work too.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,172
Likes: 4
Waterpump change
The tool made to remove the fan clutch is the easiest way to remove it because sometimes the clutch is fairly snug . Wedging a large screwdriver on the pulley bolts and using the wrench will work , just watch your knucles if something slips . Turn the clutch fan nut in the same direction as the fan rotation ... Standing in front of the truck will all tools in place , turn the wrench , tool , channel locks , whatever you decide on , to your LEFT . The fan clutch is right hand thread . Also remove the fan and shroud together . Youll have to remove the heater hose connection from the old pump and install it on the new pump , make sure you seal it with something ( my fav is liquid teflon ) Note the position of the heater hose pipe and install it the same on the new pump . Three of the water pumps bolts are thru holes that need to be sealed also otherwise they will leak . Since all the coolant is out of the engine now is a good time to replace the rad hoses and clamps if they need it . One other tip is to leave the heater hose off the pipe you transfered to the new pump to allow a lot of air to be expelled . Once you notice coolant in the pipe , reinstall the heater hose .Installing is the reverse , fan & shroud in together and once you have the fan clutch threaded on a few threads , tighten the shroud to get it out of your way .
Paul
Paul
Elder User
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 780
Likes: 1
Waterpump change
Having the proper tool, especially a special one always makes the job go easier.
Go bother a Pep Boys or Autozone--they loan those special tools for free or with a refundable deposit.
I would imagine that anyother do-it-yourself retail auto parts chain store would have the same policy or could be talked into it.
Ed
Go bother a Pep Boys or Autozone--they loan those special tools for free or with a refundable deposit.
I would imagine that anyother do-it-yourself retail auto parts chain store would have the same policy or could be talked into it.
Ed
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 903
Likes: 0
From: Banning CA
Waterpump change
I have done many ford fan clutch and waterpump changes. Of all the times that I have changed them, I can only remember using the tool once. Even though I have both the tools for gas and diesle, I just use a large cresent wrench, and a large ballpen hammer. With the belt still on, make sure you check the direction the clutch comes off, install the cresent and strike the wrench firmly, about the 2nd or 3rd time it will just spin right off. Using the tool and trying to hold the water pump pulley and trying to turn the fan clutch can be such a pain. I found it faster and easier to just use the cresent.
Dave
http://a2ztowing.homestead.com/a2ztowing.html
Dave
http://a2ztowing.homestead.com/a2ztowing.html
