Has anyone experienced brake vibration while slowing down from freeway speed. The Dealer wants to turn the discs again... I have a 2003 SD CC FX4 with 27000 miles. any help would be appericiated.

Dan

First time writer long time reader

 

sounds like warped rotors to me. a common problem on my truck as well.

 

Thanks, I got rid of my 02 because of it.

 

Its caused by hard spots on the rotors from excessive heat. Sometimes turning will help but replacing the rotors will get rid of it.

Denny

 

Check out Carolina Clutch here. They have a new lineup of rotors...plus they sponsor FTE.

And the ART rotors are good, so I hear.


One thing's for sure, the OEM's are pretty much made of jello.

 

Dan,

Sounds like warped rotors in deed. You mentioned dealer wants to turn rotors "again" ... Hmmmm, sounds like they might be getting too thin. If this is second time or more for turning, I would recommend replacement. Even at only 27000 miles, depends on your driving or the casting of the rotors, but the more they turn them the more metal they take off the less heat dissipation you will have. Sounds like in this case you will have a temporary fix at best, maybe another 2 months you will be right back to vibration (warped rotors). I would replace rotors and move on!

HTH,

Joe

 

Hey Ron,

Do you know if we get any kind of discount with them? I'm going to need some new rotors soon (76k on original set) but dropping over 500 large on rotors is so darn expensive. Is this a pay for what you guy type thing? Will I ever have to replace these? I plan on keeping my truck until I run it into the ground so if I spend the $500 now for good rotors and never have to replace them, I can justify the purchase.

Thanks!
Matt

EDIT- Wilderness, sorry to jack your thread!

 

Don't know, Matt. Sorry.

I'm not far from ordering a set myself. I guess the best thing is to call the toll-free # and tell them where you're coming from. Might be worth a shot.

 

Thanks Ron, I just got off the phone with them. They don't give any discounts through us. Oh well, like you said, it was worth a shot!

 

Warped rotors are a myth.

I do not intend to repost all I know on this subject only to say there are many Brake experts on this site and the diesel stop.

Proper "bedding in" of new pads is the key.

Almost every after market replacement rotor set is good.

Not all brake pads are your buddy.

I get over 75K out of disk brakes on all my cars and trucks since 1983 when I learned how to properly break them in.

NASCAR rotors are not any different alloy , or dimension to what we use and they get red HOT a LOT and do not warp.

Hard spots, and material transfer are what you feel.

Not all brake fluid is good for every application.

Steel flexible brake lines to the caliper greatly enhance peddle feel and braking capability.

There that ought to start some good discussion.

 

Really?

My 03' with 41K has had worped rotors for most of those 41k miles. It has never really bothered me. Yes there is that vibration and pedal pulse. But at $130 a piece for the cheap rotors and $200+ a piece for the quality rotors, I will wait until they are wore out before replacing. I still have plenty of pad left so I should get about 60K out of the factory brakes.

A new truck because of warped rotors.....my gal would kill me for that. Like she knows what rotors are anyways.

 

Thanks for all your info. Who took the super out of super-duty???? Any way Im going to let the dealer deal with it even though its a pain in the a(*&%*&. As for my 02 after 5 times in the dealer they and ford bought it back and I got into the 03. I've Also herd the break pads loose their ability to remove heat away from the roters.

 

I purchased 4 slotted and drilled rotors from Forum racing in Huntington Beach, CA shipped to my door and machined in-house, as well as my choice of colored coating for $220. I couldn't recommend a better source or replacement for this bad (150,000 mile OEM) rotor problem my Expo had. As far as the color choice, well who cares with the stock rims? Look up FORUM RACING in the phone book at Huntington Beach, CA.

The old rotors were so bad, they grumbled something fierce as brakes were applied, coupled with deep pulsation.

The old rear rotors were so bad that the damned parking brake shoes crumbled-off (loose) when the rear rotors were removed; of course the parking brake's wheel cylinder & friends were JUNK. I didn't bother to replace that B.S., since this is an automatic, and the parts store didn't have that stuff in stock.

The old front (4x4) rotors were so bad, that I had to actually get my 4" grinder and heavy duty chisel to remove them. They were SOOO stubborn, that I had to try using a coal miner's-size pick, sledgehammer, sledgehammer + 2x4" piece of wood, rust penetrant, grade 8 bolt & nut (that actually snapped while making ZERO headway) although it was a great idea, and LOTS of cussing. I had to cut away quite a bit of a slice of the rotor/ maybe 1/4 of it before hammering a chisel between the hub and the shi&#y rotor, and wedging the two until they finally seperated. The grinding wheel used was designed for metal of course.

With the brake fluid, I managed to bleed the original shtuff out of the system, replacing it with the standard on-the-shelf DOT3 fluid. Hopefully that keeps things good for a while.

Needless to say the brakes are there when I need them most, and it seems like night and day difference. Thanks.

 

By the way, I neglected to mention that these rotors are quality material; not some cheap B.S. that'll break down in a year or anything. The super cheap price was because they machine 'em in house. $90/ front pair + $90 rear pair + $40 s&H = $220. Call those guys if you want the good stuff, and can't afford an arm or a leg for Brembo or PowerSlot.

 

Of all the Ford Trucks that I have owned I have only had HARD SPOTS on on set and thats was not the trucks fault, down hill with crappy brake controller smoked the brakes and I mean smoked. Turned the rotor and new pads brake controller in the sh** can and no more problems.

On the work truck in my sig I had the pads only replaced at 75K didn't even turn the rotors, just broke the new pads in and just like new. I also used Motocraft pads.

Denny