Raduis Arm FIXED
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Raduis Arm FIXED
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.ph...?&albumid=15527
2 days later and it is fixed...new question, the arm that controls the wheels to move left and right from the steering box, the protective cover at the joint is gone, can it be replaced or does the whole arm need to be replaced (see pictures)
2 days later and it is fixed...new question, the arm that controls the wheels to move left and right from the steering box, the protective cover at the joint is gone, can it be replaced or does the whole arm need to be replaced (see pictures)
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Wow I'd get that cover back on. But how long has it been off and have you greased it since the cover is gone? Any water in there and rust will start and that has all of your steering pressure on it. You for sure want to inspect it very carefully and any doubts replace it, it's not worth hurting yourself or anyone else for just a tie rod. Those lift brackets look like Superlifts and the weld is recommended not just bolted on on that drop bracket. Also thats a Dana 44 IFS front axle. I was just reading your comments on the pictures not sure if you already had answers or not. If you wheel alot you might want to look at longer radius arms Superlift has a good set a little expensive but worth it. Well good luck and have a good one
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From: Central NY
I didn't see any new pics in your gallery.
It sounds like your talking about the Tie rod. You can replace them fairly cheap or just buy a replacement boot and grease the hell out of it for now.
When you seperate it from the mounting you should be able to move the bolt end by hand. Replace it if you can't.
Keep in mind that if you replace it you need to align it.
Cheers,
Popa Tim
It sounds like your talking about the Tie rod. You can replace them fairly cheap or just buy a replacement boot and grease the hell out of it for now.
When you seperate it from the mounting you should be able to move the bolt end by hand. Replace it if you can't.
Keep in mind that if you replace it you need to align it.
Cheers,
Popa Tim
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You can't replace just the guts in the socket but like Popa Tim said the tie rod is not a real expensive part. When you seperate the tie rod from the pitman arm you will probally be able to move the stud but if it feels too loose replace it, it should have a smooth resistance to it but if you can't move it like Popa Tim said replace it. Check all the other tie rod ends for wear and replace as necessary while the system is apart. It really is a fairly easy job. Have fun and good luck.
LmooreF250
LmooreF250
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called the local napa store and found out that the production date for the trucks comes in two parts:
from jan 88 to feb 88 the tie rod is different from the tie rod from march on to the next year...why?
the price for the tie rod is miles apart...for the 'upto' feb 1988 it is approx $30 and the one from march on is approx $100.
whats the difference between them?
any ideas?
from jan 88 to feb 88 the tie rod is different from the tie rod from march on to the next year...why?
the price for the tie rod is miles apart...for the 'upto' feb 1988 it is approx $30 and the one from march on is approx $100.
whats the difference between them?
any ideas?
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I'm not sure what you are asking. If the tie rod looks bad goto a quality auto parts that carrys MOOG parts (that is the brand I use others will work fine but I like MOOG). You can goto Murrays if you want but I never had them last or you could goto to the dealer and pay alot, your choice just tell them what year your truck is and they will give you the parts. It is not a special part or anything. Last time I bought a whole set up for around 250 but that was everything all the tie rod ends and both arms. You should be ok it's not that hard to do. Just get the truck in and get a front end alignment before it is driven or you will chew your tires up pretty fast. Good Luck
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From: Central NY
They must have looked up something wrong I think, i just did my 94's a few years ago and they were cheap, Like $20 for the outters and $30 for the inners with lifetime warr.
for the hell of it I just checked Autozone and they are $25 & $36 respectively for the Duralast lifetime warranty ones. The only differentiation I could see is if the truck were madde in Mecxico or not (Vin 2bl for mex)
The boots are universal I beleive, ask about them at the counter.
Cheers,
Popa Tim
for the hell of it I just checked Autozone and they are $25 & $36 respectively for the Duralast lifetime warranty ones. The only differentiation I could see is if the truck were madde in Mecxico or not (Vin 2bl for mex)
The boots are universal I beleive, ask about them at the counter.
Cheers,
Popa Tim
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Popa Tim you are correct if you want Duralast or TRW neither one is my choice. If you look up MOOG they are more expensive and you do get what you pay for in this catogory. But I beat my 94 F150 bad and the MOOGs hold up. I have put TRWs on it before nad I usually end up changing them. But also the truck has 226,000 miles on it so they have needed to be changed. I now have superlifts supperrunner steering and love it best 450 I spent on the front end of that truck. It only has 33" tires but they do beat up that front end when driven hard on the trail. scouterspokane it is your choice of what to use, if you drive on the street mostly and don't run it hard on the trails you can use any of the brands. I don't just buy the most expensive parts either I check out what brands and get hte one suited for my application. Good luck with which ever brand you use.
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From: Central NY
Thanks for the info LmooreF250, I have never been off road and don't need anything more than "car quality" per say, but I can see where off-roading would require beefier suspension parts and scouterspokane should probably go this route.
I wouldn't think NAPA quality was that much better than Duralast thou, certainly not MOOG quality.
Cheers,
Popa Tim
I wouldn't think NAPA quality was that much better than Duralast thou, certainly not MOOG quality.
Cheers,
Popa Tim
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=15527
your right, they were looking up the listing for a van. I paid $62.90 for the drag link brand new from Napa.
Posted the pictures that I forgot to place in the gallery...
Thanks guys for the help...
your right, they were looking up the listing for a van. I paid $62.90 for the drag link brand new from Napa.
Posted the pictures that I forgot to place in the gallery...
Thanks guys for the help...
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