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4.9L hoist problem

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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 10:18 AM
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Question 4.9L hoist problem

There is just about zero room over the 4.9L in an E150 for engine hoist. I have removed and rebuilt 4.9L from my 95E150. I pulled the head off before lifting the engine to make room for the lift. Even with the head off there wasn't much room to lift and get the oil pan over the cross member. Now that I have completely rebuilt the engine, the head is back on, and I want to leave it on. Any suggestions on hoisting the engine back in. I thought about making a special low profile boom extension for my lift that would gain a few inches. Anyone tried that or how about lifting the engine at a 45degree angle and rolling it down after the engine is set back. All help from anyone who has attempted this is appreciated. If I have to take the head off, I can and will however it is a last resort, because my engine is clean, and the head is tourqued.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 09:38 PM
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Well, so far I have welded up a low profile extension for my hoist boom. I made the boom of angle iron and flat bar from home depot to end up with a 1"x3" piece 4' long that is sturdy as a railroad tie. That is going to give me 3 more inches of clearance. I am going to weld bolts onto the boom to attach chains at precise angles and location.

I am going to try to set the engine in this weekend.
I am still open to suggestions!! I don't know if this is going to work or not.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 06:46 AM
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Can you set the engine without the oil pan and then jack it high enough to put the pan back on? Just a wild stab.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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Removing the oil pan, pick up tube and oil pump would provide approx. four or more inches of clearance. Yes that would work. Still, my engine is fresh and cleaned up right now. I'ld hate to get any dirt in it.

Is it OK to lift the whole engine by lifting up on the head. I want to use an intake manifold bolt hole on one side, and there is bracket mounting bolt hole on the opposite side of the head. Can this warp the head?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Don't know about lifting by the head, I think I would stick to the block myself. On the oil pan thing, if you sealed the crankcase with clean plastic sheet and masking tape you should be alright. I sure if the engine is out you've cleaned out the area under it pretty thoroughly anyway so there would be little chance of contamination. Still you would have to find a way to jack the engine without blocking the pan from going back on. Your there and I'm not and like I said before, it's just a wild stab at the problem. Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 12:57 PM
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Think about this, when you remove a V8 engine it is lifted by the heads.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 06:41 PM
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Yep, you can lift by the head, just be sure the bolts are far enough in the head to they don't pull out and strip out the hole.
 
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Old May 5, 2005 | 01:26 AM
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I'm in the process of swapping a semi-rebuilt 351W into an E250. Posted lots of questions on small block forum.
I've decided to raise the vehicle with jack stands to have a better angle to put in the new motor. Cant see, even without the heads, any other way to do this myself. I REFUSE to experience the oil pan crap again.
Munrow
 
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Old May 5, 2005 | 01:06 PM
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Success! I installed my complete 4.9L engine this weekend, with oil pan, heads and valve cover all in place. It went in smoothly.

The low profile boom I made 1" high by 2" x 36" long gave me a few extra inches of clearance. Connecting the lifting chains directly from the side of the boom with bolts, eliminating a hook, also gave me another couple inches. I raised the front of the van quite high with jacks and blocks as well, to improve boom angle as well. And one other good trick is too put down a full sheet (4x8) 3/4" of plywood if your driveway is uneven. This allowed the hoist to roll smoothly.

Thanks to all for suggestions. I think FTE is great.
 
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