Manual locks/windows==> power conversion help
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Delta, BC, Canada
Manual locks/windows==> power conversion help
I am thinking about heading to a wrecker and getting new power locks and windows for my truck, what kind of work is involved with this??? Has anyone here done it, how much, how hard etc
1992 f-150 reg cab
1992 f-150 reg cab
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 315
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From: Miami
I just did that exact same thing to my '88 F-150 about three months ago.
The biggest problem is that your non power window/lock truck, does not have the wiring in the cab for it.
Besides all of the stuff you will need to take from the donor truck, you will need to make the harness that goes across the cab from door to door.
Here is what you will need from the donor truck:
1) Power window motors with regulators
2) Power lock actuators
3) door trim panels with switches
4) Wiring harneses from inside doors including rubber boot that goes from door to cab.
The wiring harnesses connect inside the cab right behind the kick panels. Cut the harness on the "cab" side of the connector, leaving as much cable as you can so that you may use the "cab side" of the plugs to build your new cab herness.
Note the position of the widow regulator and power lock in the donor vehicle, because the manual regulators mount differently. The holes for the powered regulators will be pre-drilled in your door, but you need to know which way it mounts. Also, the left and right are different. MArk them when you remove from donor truck.
The regulators are attached to the door with rivets. Take something to break off the rivets when you go remove the parts off the donor truck. Easiest way seems to be with a center punch (to pop the stem out of the rivet) then use a sharp flat chisel and a hammer to cut the head off the rivet. You can then install them in your truck with 1/4 inch bolts unless you have a rivet gun.
The wiring harness that goes in the cab is basically 8 wires that cross from one door to the other. Two of the eight wires get tapped into +12V. One goes to a constant source for power to the locks, and the other one to a switched source (key) for power to the windows. Ground comes from a bolt in the drivers door.
I paid about $80 for all the parts at the local pick-n-pull, then ended up spending another $80 on new motors when the salvaged ones gave out about 2 months later. depending how long the truck has been sitting, it might be adviseable to take the motors off the donor regulators (so you don't have to pay for them) and just buy two new motors (about $40 each) to mount on the regulators you got from the donor truck.
If you decide to go forward with this endeavor, PM me and I'll send you the wiring diagram showing how to build the "cross cab" harness.
Just make sure you get ALL of the listed parts from the donor truck including The plugs from the "cross cab harness"
The Payoff is that you won't have to llay across your seat anymore to open the passenger window/door
The biggest problem is that your non power window/lock truck, does not have the wiring in the cab for it.
Besides all of the stuff you will need to take from the donor truck, you will need to make the harness that goes across the cab from door to door.
Here is what you will need from the donor truck:
1) Power window motors with regulators
2) Power lock actuators
3) door trim panels with switches
4) Wiring harneses from inside doors including rubber boot that goes from door to cab.
The wiring harnesses connect inside the cab right behind the kick panels. Cut the harness on the "cab" side of the connector, leaving as much cable as you can so that you may use the "cab side" of the plugs to build your new cab herness.
Note the position of the widow regulator and power lock in the donor vehicle, because the manual regulators mount differently. The holes for the powered regulators will be pre-drilled in your door, but you need to know which way it mounts. Also, the left and right are different. MArk them when you remove from donor truck.
The regulators are attached to the door with rivets. Take something to break off the rivets when you go remove the parts off the donor truck. Easiest way seems to be with a center punch (to pop the stem out of the rivet) then use a sharp flat chisel and a hammer to cut the head off the rivet. You can then install them in your truck with 1/4 inch bolts unless you have a rivet gun.
The wiring harness that goes in the cab is basically 8 wires that cross from one door to the other. Two of the eight wires get tapped into +12V. One goes to a constant source for power to the locks, and the other one to a switched source (key) for power to the windows. Ground comes from a bolt in the drivers door.
I paid about $80 for all the parts at the local pick-n-pull, then ended up spending another $80 on new motors when the salvaged ones gave out about 2 months later. depending how long the truck has been sitting, it might be adviseable to take the motors off the donor regulators (so you don't have to pay for them) and just buy two new motors (about $40 each) to mount on the regulators you got from the donor truck.
If you decide to go forward with this endeavor, PM me and I'll send you the wiring diagram showing how to build the "cross cab" harness.
Just make sure you get ALL of the listed parts from the donor truck including The plugs from the "cross cab harness"
The Payoff is that you won't have to llay across your seat anymore to open the passenger window/door
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 89
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From: Delta, BC, Canada
hmmmm, sounds interesting, Definately going to be looking heavily into it, if you could email me those diagrams that would be great,, I'll PM you about getting it... Thanks for all of your help.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 282
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Sorry to bring up an old post, but I am getting ready to change my truck to power windows. Its a 1991 F150 and I have the regulators and motors from an 1989 Bronco. I would like to wire up my own aftermarket switch's and run my own relays. Does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram for this?