Hello All!

I Am About To Have To Replace A Bad Power Brake Booster On My 1983 Ford E-350. Was Wondering If There Are Any Problems That I Might Encounter. Would Appreciate Any Words Of Wisdom.

Mendi1

 

1. Might have to readjust the cruise control release valve (if so equipped) so brake pedal arm doesn't hold it open.
2. Be sure to put fluid in and bleed the master cylinder (in level position) to get out all trapped air before installing on vehicle. I bought mine (for F350) from Advance Auto Parts and it came with excellent instructions and all parts needed (caps, plugs, tubes, etc.).
Piffery1

 

Thanks Piffery1,
My question was for information on installing a brake power booster on a 1983 E-350 Ford. Would this truck have the same hook-up and booster as a F-350 Ford? I haven't started this project yet and was sort of in the dark as to what to expect when I do start removing the old booster. This is on a class C 23' motor home and the deep cycly battery will have to be removed in order to have access to disconnecting the master cylinder from the booster. I will be useing the master cylinder that is on the truck now and will
be completely flushing out all of the old brake fluid with new fluid while bleeding the system. I don't anticipate having any problems but thanks for
any little info tips that will be helpful;

mendi1

 

MENDI1,
According to my '83 Ford Shop manual both the F350 and E350 (with dual wheels) both use the Bendix Tandem (double) Diaphragm dash mounted vacuum brake booster.
There is one procedure in the manual that covers both types of vehicles. If you're going to change the booster I'd go ahead and change the master cylinder too. You can buy a rebuilt booster/master cylinder already assembed as a unit for just a few dollars more and not have to worry about getting the booster pushrod length adjusted properly plus, if the booster has failed its probably time to change out the master cylinder anyhow. Here is a simplified step-by-step booster removal instruction paraphrased from the Ford manual: 1. Disconnect stop light switch wiring. 2. Support the master cyl. 3. Remove master cyl. nuts. 4. Remove vacuum hose. 5. Pull master cyl. off booster and keep supported. 6. Inside cab, remove retaining pin and slide stop lamp switch, pushrod spacers and bushing off the brake pedal arm. Remove booster mounting nuts. 7. Remove booster.
If you're replacing both booster and master cyl., then no need to separate the components- just remove brake lines from master cyl.
Installation is reverse of removal except for adding bleeding of system if master cyl. is replaced. Make sure you remember how bushing and spacers go back (Step 6). You might have to adjust stop light switch and/or cruise vacuum release for proper operation.
Piffery1

 

Piffery1,
Thanks for your responce to my question. You surely covered all points that I was
in need of knowing for sure. I didn't intend to replace the master cylinder with this
project but your advise has me thinking your way. Anyway, thanks again for your
responce. Very helpful.

mendi1

 

MENDI1,
If you don't replace the master cylinder, be sure to properly adjust the pushrod length. Instructions should come with the replacement booster.
Piffery1

 

Could not agree more with Piffery1. Replace the master cylinder when you replace the booster.

 

Having replaced the booster on my '83 F-150, I agree with the others here on also replacing the master cylinder. I had to replace mine about 6 weeks later. The back seal started leaking on the cylinder, and was leaking brake fluid into the booster.

All is well now.

Best of luck with the switch-out. Its not a hard job. The hardest part is getting room to get it out. Used to own an Econoline 250. Really crammed together!