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I have a carb'd 87 F350 with a 460. It is running a rich. I have disconnected the air pumps. Do I need the air pumps to ram more air into the air cleaner. It has no cats, so I don't no what other purpose they serve. The carb is rebuilt, so I know that is not the problem(or shouldn't be).
Also, does anybody know how to adjust the choke flap?
is it smoking black or just smell rich? the choke is adjusted on the passenger side, there is a screw that adjusts the amount of throttle vs. choke movement if its a stock motorcraft carb with the mechanical choke. you should save up and look for a 750 holley and aluminum manifold combo.
Air pump supplies excess oxygen in exhaust to complete combustion of any unburned fuel, so without it you may be able to smell a little unburned fuel odor. If the carburetor is the original (Holley/Motorcraft 4180C-4V) and rebuilt locally it may have a generic power valve rather than the type originally designated for your particular vehicle. Holley has a good on-line tech support site and if you send them the carburetor number (example: E7TE-XXXX-XX) and List number stamped on the carburetor they can send you the proper p/n. Also ask for the main jet sizes. If it is a factory rebuilt- who knows what you ended up with? But still, the original power valve and jet sizes would get you to a good starting point. There is lots of good Holley info on the web.
Piffery1
the truck smells rich, and at about 35 mph, it coughs like it has to much fuel. it also doesn't idle to well. it seems to load up on fuel until you give it some gas. i went to holley's site yesterday and found some pretty good info, though. thanks for the help.
The stock choke was an electric unit. To adjust, with engine completely cold. On the passenger side of the carn there are 3 screws that hold black choke cover on the carb, loosen them until you can rotate the black cover. With the throttle held slightly off idle, rotate the black cover until the choke valve is closed. Tighten the screws. The choke is electric so you need to make sure the valve opens as the choke heats up with the engine running, if it doesn't the you need a new cover with heating coils in it.
On my '83 with 4180C carburetor the choke is both electric and heat tube operated. Voltage for the electrical portion comes from alternator stator (S) terminal and I'm pretty sure is only present with engine running.
Heat tube supplies hot air from engine manifold and is main source of heat for the choke. Electric choke heater just makes the choke open faster and cuts off after a short time. Check the heat tube, mine was rusted in two and I had to braze it back together.
Also, be sure to check fuel levels in carburetor bowls-too high can cause your problem.
Piffery1
On my '83 with 4180C carburetor the choke is both electric and heat tube operated. Voltage for the electrical portion comes from alternator stator (S) terminal and I'm pretty sure is only present with engine running.
Heat tube supplies hot air from engine manifold and is main source of heat for the choke. Electric choke heater just makes the choke open faster and cuts off after a short time. Check the heat tube, mine was rusted in two and I had to braze it back together.
Also, be sure to check fuel levels in carburetor bowls-too high can cause your problem.
Piffery1
The electric voltage from the alternator is present at the choke heater whenever the alternator is turning (the engine is running) and is the primary heat source. On your application the tube is back up as the earlier heaters were short lived sometimes. My '84 has the electric only and I have never seen a later model year with the manifold heater. The electric does make the choke come off faster for emmissions purposes but they work all the time the engine runs.
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