dead turn signals
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 1
dead turn signals
Had a bad turn signal cam that wouldn't turn the left signal off, so I bought a steering wheel puller and after market replacement cam for Fords and replaced the old cam with the replacement. Now my turn signals won't work. Neither one lights up when I engage the lever and they seem a little mushy. Everything else works fine...horn, cruise, tilt...so I think I got it back together right. Did I just get a lousy aftermarket part? Should I try a Ford OEM cam or take it to a mechanic? If I go that route, what would it cost? Any advice, or estimates, from those who have been there, too, would be appreciated.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
dead turn signals
I have a similar problem now, or at least untill payday. I found that my ignition switch is worn, but if I turn it back a little after starting it my blinkers work fine, also my back up lights, same fuse. Hope your problem is as simple.
1988 F-150 351W
1988 F-150 351W
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 1
dead turn signals
I had to buy a steering wheel puller ($7) and the $9.95 generic Ford/Chrysler replacement cam and install it in my column. Not a bad job, but when you do this, be sure you don't cut the two wires on the replacement cam too short before you crimp them to the column wires. There isn't a whole lot of room under the cam for the wires and crimp/joiner. I got mine done but couldn't get any flashers...then noticed that hazard lights and brake and back-up lights were dead, too. I somehow blew two of my 15 amp fuses, but everything is back to normal with new ones. Also discovered that Ford doesn't sell just the cam...they sell the whole shooting match for $115, not bad for the whole assembly if you need everything that goes into the top of the steering column. Next morning, the key cylinder ignition switch broke as I tried to get to work (running late, too) so I had to replace it, too...another $9 at Checker Auto Parts, but an easy replacement to do. Hopefully, Ole Red won't get cranky and start spitting parts again until AFTER I get the inspection sticker renewed next week!!
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Problems with aftermarket "Help" turn signal cam
I know this is a very old thread but I will add this bit of information here for others who may have problems with an aftermarket turn signal cam.
While recently trying to get my brother's 1981 F150 XLT through the Texas safety inspection, I replaced the broken OEM turn signal cam with an aftermarket "Help" brand one. Prior to this the turn signals had been working but the right signal would not hold in position. After the replacement, I had no turn signals at all. Upon close examination, I found that the one of the wire brushes (looks like paperclip wire) underneath the new cam assembly was too long on both ends and was catching on the sides of the switch when the cam assembly was seated in the switch. This caused the "paper-clip-like" wire brush to be held away from the electrical point-connectors located in the top of the switch. Using wire snips I clipped about 3/16" off each end of the wire brush that was too long and reinstalled the new cam. Voila, everything started working and the truck passed the safety inspection with flying colors.
Hope this information helps someone.
While recently trying to get my brother's 1981 F150 XLT through the Texas safety inspection, I replaced the broken OEM turn signal cam with an aftermarket "Help" brand one. Prior to this the turn signals had been working but the right signal would not hold in position. After the replacement, I had no turn signals at all. Upon close examination, I found that the one of the wire brushes (looks like paperclip wire) underneath the new cam assembly was too long on both ends and was catching on the sides of the switch when the cam assembly was seated in the switch. This caused the "paper-clip-like" wire brush to be held away from the electrical point-connectors located in the top of the switch. Using wire snips I clipped about 3/16" off each end of the wire brush that was too long and reinstalled the new cam. Voila, everything started working and the truck passed the safety inspection with flying colors.
Hope this information helps someone.
