degreeing a camshaft
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
degreeing a camshaft
Anyone one here ever performed a cam degree alignment on a newly rebuilt engine like a 351m/400 ? If so, which alignment is the preferable method for this engine, the .050 or centerline ? What if a person does not have the new cam's time card , can the alignment still be done accurately without it ? thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 2
From: Boise, Idaho
I have degreed a cam. I had a cam card to use but I don't think it's necessary. I strongly encourage you to do this, especially with a 351M or 400. It's probably the smartest thing you can do for a 400, so don't skip this step.
I'd use the .050 to find where the lobe center is.
I'd use the .050 to find where the lobe center is.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
Without knowing where the lobe center is ground, the only thing you will get for your trouble is knowing where it ended up. You'll have no idea where it is supposed to be. Say you go through it and find at zero it's at 114. If you had a card and it said 112 you know how much to move it.
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
Originally Posted by mark a.
Without knowing where the lobe center is ground, the only thing you will get for your trouble is knowing where it ended up. You'll have no idea where it is supposed to be. Say you go through it and find at zero it's at 114. If you had a card and it said 112 you know how much to move it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
If the timing gear marks are lined up it will run, degreeing isn't your problem. How did you check p.r. length ? Hows your cylinder p.s.i.? Does it run rough when it runs ? If it runs ok & then just quits I'd be looking into the ignition, if your sure it's getting fuel.
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
Originally Posted by mark a.
If the timing gear marks are lined up it will run, degreeing isn't your problem. How did you check p.r. length ? Hows your cylinder p.s.i.? Does it run rough when it runs ? If it runs ok & then just quits I'd be looking into the ignition, if your sure it's getting fuel.
Trending Topics
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Kinda sounds like the carb float and needle valve aren't connected and the fuel pump has to "push" past the valve to fill the bowl.
Steve
Steve
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
Assuming your using a known good dist. I think the push rods are too long. If you want to try something that will cost nothing, then find a piece of sheet metal about .03-.04 thick, drill 16 5/16" holes in it and cut them out to fit under the rocker stands, beet them flat after you make them. Put them under the the rocker stands & tighten them back down & see if it makes any difference. This step must be elimimated before before moving on.
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
Originally Posted by mark a.
Assuming your using a known good dist. I think the push rods are too long. If you want to try something that will cost nothing, then find a piece of sheet metal about .03-.04 thick, drill 16 5/16" holes in it and cut them out to fit under the rocker stands, beet them flat after you make them. Put them under the the rocker stands & tighten them back down & see if it makes any difference. This step must be elimimated before before moving on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
I wouldn't use any thicker than .05 at the very most. You will probably hear some valves clattering. I wouldn't rev it up either, just see how it acts. If it makes a difference you'll know your on the right track.
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
I searched though my engine rebuild /parts receipts, and found out he put a Crane blueracer cam in it, so I got on line and ordered the Crane rocker shim kits for the 79 Ford 351m . I will report back my findings after I get them in and installed. thanks
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 236
Likes: 6
Mother of all thread bumps
Okay guys, I have looked and looked but still trying to figure this out...
If I install a brand new camshaft and timing set do I still have to take out the 4 degree timing retard that was factory.
I am thinking about ordering this( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6621-9 )timing set to make it easy.
So, with a whole new cam, do I set it to 0° (to take out the factory R4)? Or do I set it to A4 to take it to actual 0°?
Or what do you suggest? I haven't started looking at cams but I want to get this timing issue right in my head first
.
Engine is complete stock rebuilt 10 years ago with about 12k miles on it. I have the Edelbrock Performer intake and carb going on it when I do the cam.
If I install a brand new camshaft and timing set do I still have to take out the 4 degree timing retard that was factory.
I am thinking about ordering this( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6621-9 )timing set to make it easy.
So, with a whole new cam, do I set it to 0° (to take out the factory R4)? Or do I set it to A4 to take it to actual 0°?
Or what do you suggest? I haven't started looking at cams but I want to get this timing issue right in my head first
.Engine is complete stock rebuilt 10 years ago with about 12k miles on it. I have the Edelbrock Performer intake and carb going on it when I do the cam.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
First, you do know this is a 10 year old thread? You really should start your own thread.
But, to answer your question, there are only two places Ford could have built in the retard - the cam itself and the timing set. So, if you replace the cam and use an aftermarket timing set there will be no retard. You should install the cam at 0.
But, to answer your question, there are only two places Ford could have built in the retard - the cam itself and the timing set. So, if you replace the cam and use an aftermarket timing set there will be no retard. You should install the cam at 0.