I'm still working on the disc brake conversion. While removing the drum brakes from the spindles, I notice that my king pin is pretty beat up and it looks like rubber is coming out of the top. My tie rod connections also look pretty bad and covered with pounds of grease. I figure as long as I'm where I'm at, now is the time to replace this stuff. How difficult is it to replace the king pin and tie rod ends. Also, any ideas of where to purchase these items at a good price? I hate brakes and suspensions and those are the areas that usually need the work. Did I mention my back was killing me? LOL....

 

A bunch of places have the king pin kits, tie rod ends, etc. You'll have to look around if you want the absolute lowest price. I tend to get my stuff from JobLot Automotive (www.joblotauto.com) since I've dealt with them for a long time and they've always come through with the correct stuff. You might be able to save a couple of bucks if you look around enough.

 

If you're going to go with original parts, you might want to check NAPA. They get Kingpin sets from Rareparts in CA. http://www.rareparts.com/

They can also get 0.010 oversize pins which I needed since my axles holes weren't round.


They can also get the rod ends, drag link etc.

Regards,

Rick

 

I got a whole NOS F-5 axle from joblot. $150.
Having the original axle sleeved $500. You make the call.

 

I wouldn't even try to remove the kingpins without torching the area cherry red. Even then it'll probably take some heavy pounding. Bad back? You might want to watch TV this weekend.

 

Having to do all the work on the floor, it does a number on ones lower back. I've never replaced the kingpins or even done tie rods, etc. So I haven't a clue on where to being. As far as cost, I'm not concerned, I just want the right parts and not have to worry or go over again, because the parts were wrong. I checked a few auto parts in my area, no one carries them for a 56 F100 staight axle. Are there any special tools needed to do this job? I've got a pickle fork and a torch. And a very large sledge hammer.

 

Shouldn't need any special tools except for a bushing reamer to trim the kingpin bushings. I brought mine to a local shop and had them fit mine. One tip I've heard but haven't had the pleasure of trying yet is to carefully grind or torch off the top of the kingpins so you can hammer them down instead of up to get them out. Hold a good sized punch with a vise grips and have at it. I actually have fond memories of doing mine since it was about the first thing I did on my restoration. Let us know how it goes.

 

Just to give an idea of how difficult king pin removal MAY be, I'll give this example. Was tearing down an F-1. It was pretty bare when I got to the kingpin. No sheet metal. With the wheels and backing plates removed I lowered the axle by jack onto a drift, one end positioned on the bottom of the kingping, the other resting on a steel plate on the floor. Started with a 3 lb hammer to a piece of wood on top of the axle, and ended up quite a few attempts later with a 7 lb sledge, before the pin gave way. Of course the whole thing had to be resetup between each blow.
Hopefully you will have an easier time.

 

I'm going through the exact same stuff right now on my son's truck. We finally got the brake parts in from classicperform, still missing the bushings for the caliper brackets! The king pin bushings were hanging out the bottom, so we decided to change them out. The left side came out very easily. The right side, however, is still not out. I have beat is so much that the top is starting to crack and mushroom out. I am so frustrated over this. My 57 wasn't any trouble at all. Will heating the axle up help the pin come out any easier?

Vern

 

If you are going to take the axle to a machine shop to have the bushings reamed (good idea), don't bother trying to remove the kingpins yourself take them the whole axle let them do it for you on their big presses.
While you are this far into it, replace the tierod with a heavy duty one from Mid Fifty et al.

 

Before I jump into this venture with the king pins, I've been doing research on the internet. It looks like most people are saying the pins come out from underneath and going up? I've also seen where they sell king pins which are .10 over and the axles need to be line honed etc. They say the straight axle front end is simple, this sounds difficult especially if you have to remove the whole front end and take it to a machine shop. I'm hesistant to start removing the suspension now. I've also seen where they have king pins that have needle bearings instead of the bushings. What's the purpose of .10 over king pins? Worn out Axles? I've never replaced tie rod ends, but they seem to be much easier to replace.

Pootscratch - I'm installing the CPP disc conversion kit also. I haven't taken the parts apart but it appears everything is there. I'm not using the rubber brake lines they supply. I had some steel braided lines made with nicer looking banjo ends. I also installed a Corvette dual chamber Master cylinder (my truck for whatever reason has a Chevy power brake booster) and currently plumbing the truck with new lines, etc. Good luck on the install. It's a lot of work..... But then again if it wasn't we would be bored and we can always remind ourselves that the outcome results are all worth it. Right?

 

removing the axle to work on it is much easier than working on it in place! detach the draglink from the spindle, undo the brake line, Undo the Ubolts holding the axle to the springs and it's out.

 

AX- Makes sense buddy! I was think I had to remove everything attached to the axle, linkages etc. When you say detach from the spindle? Are you talking about where it connects to the steering box shaft near the frame rails? I think I'm going this route, It would sure make it easier to clean all the parts. Thanks AX...

 

imlowr2,

I was finally able to beat the king pins out this morning. We let them soak overnight with some heavy duty penetrating oil. I beat them back upwards, groung the end down where they had mushroomed out, and beat them down and out. Once I cleaned the mushroomed end up, it came out rather easily. I really believe the penetrating oil really helped. Regarding the CPP conversion kit--I am starting to get very frustrated with these guys. Their instructions are a little to be desired, and I believe they shorted me the bushings that go between the adapter plate and the spindle. They have still not called me back--this after it took them over 3 weeks to deliver my parts! Good luck on the king pins, I really believe this is a job that anyone can do at home, given a little time and patience.

 

You can take the draglink (the horizontal rod with the fat ends that goes between the pitman arm on the steering box to the arm on the spindle) off pretty easily at either end. There will be a large cotter pin through the end, remove it and use a large screwdriver in the slot the cotter pin was in to unscrew the plug. Note the order the parts came out it's different at each end. Next remove the bolts holding the rubber dust cover and you should be able to lift the end of the drag link off the ball. There are a few more parts inside so don't drop them on the ground! Check the ball and the two cup shaped discs that were on each side of the ball for wear and replace it and/or the parts inside the draglink with new ones if they are worn. At least replace the rubber dust covers. When you put it back together make sure everything goes back in in the same order. Tighten the plug tight then back it off until the slot is lined up with the holes for the cotter pin, put in a new pin. Be sure to grease the ends when you grease your new tie rod ends.