This oil is disgusting!!!
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Normal, IL
This oil is disgusting!!!
I personally changed my oil, @600 miles in a rebuild to Mobil 1 15w50. For the first week, every time I checked the dipstick, the oil looked new, clean, and smelled great(for oil at least). Now, after another 550 miles of moderate driving, I checked the oil, and it truly resembles tar. It smells, is thick as molasses, and black as coal.
My thoughts are, I switched to syn a little prematurely, but only on a cost standpoint, and my viscosity is a hair on the high side. Combined with the fact that there still may be a little bit of assy. lube left in there, which would make my very nice mixture that does a better job at sticking bricks together than lubricating the internals of my big block. So, next month, I will change, once again. This time, it will be a fresh 6 qts. of Mobil 1 10w30, and a brand new motorcraft FL-1A.
I'm just wanting some opinions and idea's. Did switching @600 miles hurt the motor any? It runs great, carries good oil pressure, and my favorite, almost pours freshly condensed water out the tailpipes.
My thoughts are, I switched to syn a little prematurely, but only on a cost standpoint, and my viscosity is a hair on the high side. Combined with the fact that there still may be a little bit of assy. lube left in there, which would make my very nice mixture that does a better job at sticking bricks together than lubricating the internals of my big block. So, next month, I will change, once again. This time, it will be a fresh 6 qts. of Mobil 1 10w30, and a brand new motorcraft FL-1A.
I'm just wanting some opinions and idea's. Did switching @600 miles hurt the motor any? It runs great, carries good oil pressure, and my favorite, almost pours freshly condensed water out the tailpipes.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
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From: Northern California
In your case, I might suggest changing your oil filter now, and topping off with even a good dino, such as Mobil 5000. With your recent rebuild, you probably have a lot of diluted assembly lube, by-products, and even minute metal shavings, particles, all normal, and all present in a rebuilt motor. You can even go with a bargain oil filter just for this purpose. Then, next month you can go with a quality Motorcraft oil filter, when you change your oil completely. Also, you are smart going with 10w30 Mobil 1. I feel this oil will be much more efficient in your engine, delivering maximum MPG, and cold start pumping, which will vastly reduce wear in your engine. Mobil 1 is a excellent oil, I feel. ED
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Joined: Apr 2005
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10w30 will make all the difference in the world....I'll go as light as 5w30 but thats's only 4 the winter months.
I won't change my oil without replacing the filter. It's money well spent.
I find every 3 months or 3000 kilometers is about right for many vehicles.
If you got the time, let it drain for a good hour before finishing the job. I find taking off the oil cap helps but maybe that's just in my head.
'96 f-150
inline 6
115'000 kilometers
Awesome
I won't change my oil without replacing the filter. It's money well spent.
I find every 3 months or 3000 kilometers is about right for many vehicles.
If you got the time, let it drain for a good hour before finishing the job. I find taking off the oil cap helps but maybe that's just in my head.
'96 f-150
inline 6
115'000 kilometers
Awesome
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 5,228
Likes: 5
From: Running Springs CA
The initial 600 miles should have been plenty to flush out anything left in the engine after the rebuild. I wonder if the rings have not seated yet and you just have excessive blowby sooting up the oil. Delo, Delvac or Rotella should hold the soot if that is the case. If you used chromed rings, you should wait several thousand miles for them to seat before switching to synthetic.
Jim
Jim
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
Originally Posted by Ed
In your case, I might suggest changing your oil filter now, and topping off with even a good dino, such as Mobil 5000. With your recent rebuild, you probably have a lot of diluted assembly lube, by-products, and even minute metal shavings, particles, all normal, and all present in a rebuilt motor. You can even go with a bargain oil filter just for this purpose. Then, next month you can go with a quality Motorcraft oil filter, when you change your oil completely. Also, you are smart going with 10w30 Mobil 1. I feel this oil will be much more efficient in your engine, delivering maximum MPG, and cold start pumping, which will vastly reduce wear in your engine. Mobil 1 is a excellent oil, I feel. ED
just to let you all know the new mobil 5000 is a sm oil and not made for old engines you never ever want to run a sm rated oil in a engine with a in block cam the oil provides no cam metal on metal protection all oil companies made the switch a few monthes ago but only use a sl rated oil and something like rotella t would work a lot better than mobil in your engine as for wear metals are concerned.
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Elder User
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From: Normal, IL
I feel the SM clain is BS. That's like saying "If your engine was originally designed/built in the 60's, use only SA rated oils. SM is just a better protection rating, and I don't have a problem running it.
I now realize that going with the 15w50 was a huge mistake. After more research, thin oil is where it's at. Easier on startup, great thermal protection, and better mileage. There's no need to force the engine to work harder. When I get my next check(2 weeks), I'm changing from 15w50, to 5w30, the original spec'd oil for my truck anyway. More than likely, I'll probably see engine temps decrease, and for sure mileage will increase.
Also, synthetics are great, but, in my mind, since I'm changing it 2 weeks from now, I topped off with Mobil Clean 5000.
I now realize that going with the 15w50 was a huge mistake. After more research, thin oil is where it's at. Easier on startup, great thermal protection, and better mileage. There's no need to force the engine to work harder. When I get my next check(2 weeks), I'm changing from 15w50, to 5w30, the original spec'd oil for my truck anyway. More than likely, I'll probably see engine temps decrease, and for sure mileage will increase.
Also, synthetics are great, but, in my mind, since I'm changing it 2 weeks from now, I topped off with Mobil Clean 5000.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
[QUOTE=There Goes The Neighborhood]I feel the SM clain is BS. That's like saying "If your engine was originally designed/built in the 60's, use only SA rated oils. SM is just a better protection rating, and I don't have a problem running it.
I now realize that going with the 15w50 was a huge mistake. After more research, thin oil is where it's at. Easier on startup, great thermal protection, and better mileage. There's no need to force the engine to work harder. When I get my next check(2 weeks), I'm changing from 15w50, to 5w30, the original spec'd oil for my truck anyway. More than likely, I'll probably see engine temps decrease, and for sure mileage will increase.
Also, synthetics are great, but, in my mind, since I'm changing it 2 weeks from now, I topped off with Mobil Clean 5000.[/QUOTE
Even the companies that make the sm oil warn not to use it in a flat tappet cam application because the zinc content needed is no longer in the oil oh and by the way sa oil is not from the 60's try the 20's cars in the 60's used se rated , oil next time learn your facts first.
I now realize that going with the 15w50 was a huge mistake. After more research, thin oil is where it's at. Easier on startup, great thermal protection, and better mileage. There's no need to force the engine to work harder. When I get my next check(2 weeks), I'm changing from 15w50, to 5w30, the original spec'd oil for my truck anyway. More than likely, I'll probably see engine temps decrease, and for sure mileage will increase.
Also, synthetics are great, but, in my mind, since I'm changing it 2 weeks from now, I topped off with Mobil Clean 5000.[/QUOTE
Even the companies that make the sm oil warn not to use it in a flat tappet cam application because the zinc content needed is no longer in the oil oh and by the way sa oil is not from the 60's try the 20's cars in the 60's used se rated , oil next time learn your facts first.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Normal, IL
I find it interesting that all I missed on is the SA certification. The API label says
SM/CF
SJ,SL,................
So, since it is rated for both, I'll run it. besides, it was 1qt to top off, and it's getting 5w30 synthetic in a week.
SM/CF
SJ,SL,................
So, since it is rated for both, I'll run it. besides, it was 1qt to top off, and it's getting 5w30 synthetic in a week.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,155
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From: Centerville, Iowa
I thought we've been over the flat tappet cam issue, and it was decided (as relative as a decision can be reached) that a good diesel oil like JT-8, Delo, or something like that would be best for a flat tappet. You can get the JT-8 in 10W30. I"ll wait for Rusty to poke his head in here.
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