for good power and light weight, stroker the 351W to a 393 and call it a day.

if you wanted a lot of power and 7mpg, go with the 429, except stroke it to a 514 (I believe the 429/460 are the same motor, with different crank) and get another tranny.

 

Actually, I believe that the 2-barrel 429's (pre 71 or 72) were rated at 320 horse and the four barrel versions were rated at 370 horse.

 

im thinking about putting the 514 stroker crank in my 460. any other modifications i should do on that motor? it already has the low-end RV cam. the previous owner put the low-end cam in it, and kept the torque converter stock. could that be a reason why my truck has to run a little high at idle to kepe the truck from stalling when i put it in drive or reverse? just a thought. cuz i know you have to put a new torque converter in if you change the cam. any ideas?

 

go to atleast a 3500 Stall - 4K stall. were runnin a 4K stall on our 383 Vette and if we line lock the front and take her past 2 grand... LOTS o smoke. other mods... PORT THE HECK OUTTA UR AIR INTAKE AND HEADS... its the cheapest and most unbelievable pwr maker.

 

i think that if you are going to stick to the used motors you might stick witk the 351.a while back i owned a '86 f150 4x4 with a 390,but it was completely rebuilt.if you got the time and the money and the patience to deal with all the little problems to iron out with a 390 being out in your truck,then it would be a good selection.the 390 i had put in my truck was given various upgrades to allow around 425-440 hp and 460-470 foot pounds of torque which made for one hard working engine.the truck was just awesome at work.

 

do you think it is my torque converter that needs to be changed since it has a low-end cam?

 

I vote for the 429; maybe it'll be more work due to different bellhousings, etc., but the gas mileage can't be that much worse than a 351W (after all, both engines would be in a big, heavy truck) and you'll never regret the torque.

I have a '76 Chevy C20 with a 350 that has AFR heads, a hydraulic roller cam, Performer RPM intake, Hedman Elite headers and a 2.5" dual exhaust with an "H" pipe, and it's no slouch at 353HP and 410lbft, but my F250 with a stock 460 (but with a 4" single exhaust ) is a lot more fun around town, because of the torque.

The Chevy would kill the F250 in any race longer than across an intesection, but I just love the shove in the back that big block torque provides off the line. It's addictive!

BTW, the F250 gets about 9mpg, while the C20 gets about 11mpg under the same driving conditions... not too big a difference (other than percentage-wise) in my book.

Just my $.02.

 

changing the tourque conv. is a thing that doesnt have to be done. im guessing u have a 1200-1500 stall stock. i take my numbers down and if i was gonna put on in, id put a 2000-2500 one in. itll be better for the street and occasional play time.

from my experiance, AFR has darn good products. for the most part, headers are headers. quick quest...Redneck.. does ur truck have a computer, cause if it does, doing stuff and not adjusting codes and air/feul mixture can really mess some stuff up. also putting in the worng chip for the set up or having a guy make u a chip that isnt very good can cause you problems in the short run, and its not worth it.

 

429!! lots of tourqe.

 

Keep the 351. Further, for more power either bore/stroke up to 409 with a kit OR build it stock with forged rotating assembly then put on a blower. The beauty of the blower is that you don't need all of the cubic inches. Stock cam, heads, etc are more then sufficient when cramming air in at 10 pounds of boost. The blower kits are also easily obtainable. Whichever you do, be sure to ensure that the drivetrain is prepared to take the extra ponies. My blown Scout has broken just about everything between the crank and the ground.

 

The blower is a good idea, but i havnt heard of too many guys putting one in exept for towing and drag racing. if Redneck goes off road, and had a beefed up tranny, the u joins/ drive shaft is the weakest link and one would still have to worry bout them. its much easier to get towed/ pushed off the strip and out in the woods, though its more fun. even with just a rebuild, the blowers i have looked at @ round 10 PSI were in the price range of 2K (summit and Jegs). if u do a rebild anyway, thats gonna cost a pretty penny as is (200-600 or so from what i have seen) if u just upgrade heads, cam, and such, it will prob cost the same, maybe a tad bit less, yet you can wield more power. reguardless a shift kit is gonna be needed for the tranny, but as long as u take it easy on gas, life will be good.

given redneck, its your call. if u can find some1 that can help you with the blower, go that way, but if u cant, def go with the aftermarket parts. itll be easier on you (assuming u have taken engines apart before or have buddies that can help ya) in the long run. what the hell... do both lol... but thats a lot o cash.