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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 07:07 PM
  #1  
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A/C problems

Okay, the other day I went to flip on my A/C and it started working fine. Then out of nowhere it got hot. I poped the hood and sure enough the clutch is not turning. My system is 134a and it is charged right where it should be. I was messing around with it again and later that day it started to work, then failed again. I pulled the electrical and it was getting 12.9 volts to it, so that cancelled out eletrical. Last night I replaced the clutch, pulley and coil. Still no luck. I got the clutch from the zone and they don't have insructions. I used some shims that came with it but I am not sure how thick or thin I should have gone. Any Ideas? Oh, it is an F-s6 compressor.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 08:03 PM
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It really sounds like an electrical problem if it's been working fine before this. Where did you test for voltage? Will the clutch plate move in and out (engage/disengage) by hand? What year is your vehicle?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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I tested the end of the electrical connecter. My truck is an 88.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 11:09 PM
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Do you have a full charge? if not the low pressure switch will shut of the compressor to protect it.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 12:15 AM
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Yes, I checked it with a pressure guage.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 04:34 PM
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what happens if you short out the pressure switch? Does the clutch kick in?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 05:10 PM
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I am not sure what you mean by that?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 09:51 PM
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-If you disconnect the low pressure switch and insert a jumper wire does the clutch pull in?
-Disconnect the power to the clutch and measure the windings for the clutch how many ohm's do you measure? 3-4 ohm's is what mine reads.
-What kind of ac gauge do you have?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 05:22 PM
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The low pressure switch is the eletrical that goes to the coil, right? I jumped that and the clutch did not pull in. I mesured 4.6 ohm's from it. The guage I have is one that connects to the freon can and the other goes to the low pressure side.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 10:28 PM
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- The low pressure switch is located near the collecter.
- Does the blower work?
- Is there continuity from the black clutch field coil wire to ground?
- do you have a big hammer? LOL
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 11:58 AM
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I'm having the same problem with my A/C. When I bought my bronco (1994) last year, the ac was working fine. The guy I bought it from told me the ac worked the best on "Normal" instead of "Max" setting. I do have some knowledge about ac's, and thought he was just feeding me a line. Anyway, the problem I've found is that now when I turn it on either on "max' or "normal" , I can hear the flapper in the dash switching from the defroster,to the floor and then to the vents. The compressor doesn't always come on. When it does though, the air comes out cold. I read through many post in this form and it sounds like others may be experiencing some of the same things I am (compressor not coming on all the time). I've talked to a repair shop and they told me it might be a vacum line or the flapper switch in the dash. Has anyone heard of this ?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 08:29 PM
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I touched the two terminals leading to my low pressure switch together and the clutch kicked right in. So does this mean that the low pressure switch is bad? If so, does the freon have to be breached to replace it?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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Is the low pressure switch also called a pressure in cycle switch? Because I looked on Checker auto and that part is called that.
 

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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 09:56 PM
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I found the name, clutch cycling switch.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 03:37 AM
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Yes, the switch has many names depending on whom you ask.

The switch will prevent the system clutch from engaging if you are low on refridgerant so check that first.

On my truck I noticed I could adjust the setpoint of the switch by turning a screw between the two terminals on the switch. I used it to get the system to cycle the system on and off every 60-120 seconds as per a previos thread I started about A/C issues.
 
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