Fresh rebuilt C6 wont shift
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 50
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From: Curently live in FL.
Fresh rebuilt C6 wont shift
Just placed a 351W and a C6 in my 68 F100. Engine runs great. Now this is where I tell you all that I did a very bag thing. I was working at night and bent and routed my new trany cooler lines and mistakenly placed my supply line into the radiator drain plug ( unaware that they were the same exact size and pattern). I then ran the engine the first time since the rebuild and red foamy antifreeze came bubbling out of the radiator. I cleared it all out of the cooling system I hope. But now I just can't seem to get the trany to work. I removed the pan twice and changed the fluid twice, the first time there was alot of coolant in the pan. Now there is no apparent coolant but the fluid is not a rich red color...more pink like. The trany falls into gear R or D great but when the accelerator is pressed it acts as if the truck is loaded down on a steep grade with a gusty wind head on. Any suggestions before I have to drop big bucks at a repair shop would be helpful. Thanks for looking.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,982
Likes: 7
From: Somewhere Saskatchewan
You must drain all traces of coolant. Even a small amount will separate the clutch linings.
There is a 7/16" drain plug in the convertor to drain this area.
As for the no shift. Do you have good vacuum at the modulator valve?
Is the KD rod too tight?
There is a 7/16" drain plug in the convertor to drain this area.
As for the no shift. Do you have good vacuum at the modulator valve?
Is the KD rod too tight?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Curently live in FL.
next i will remove the valve body and clean it. i just do not recall seeing a drain plug on my converter when I installed it. currently searching for a kickdown rod or cable assembly. found a cable from Lokar. is there anything that i can run through or spray into the trany with the pan removed that can assist with removing the coolant? thanks.
