intake and exhaust
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New User
Joined: Jan 2005
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intake and exhaust
What about the ford severe duty air filter upgrade? Anything to it, or should I look elswhere? My MPG is really bad 8.77 mpg half pulling about 5400 lbs. on 20' trailer and half with just trailer. I get no better than 10 mpg. Because of the mileage issue I am looking into some upgrades. My transmission ate the torque converter, so I am rebuilding with beefer stuff. I have ordered gauges, so now I am looking at exhaust & intake to be followed with a chip/programmer. Any comments on whose kits fit right. I have read the old posts, but there are new products out there and I am overwhelmed with the options.
thanks
99 PSD 4X4 auto 303,000 mi (180,000 mi on motor)
thanks
99 PSD 4X4 auto 303,000 mi (180,000 mi on motor)
Elder User
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Well, I see your definatly heading in the right direction. Most folks around here are either going with the TYMAR filter, or what we call the KWIK filter setup....after it's creator....KWIKKORDEAD. Both are open air types, with good filtration and good air flow. These are the ones I'd be looking at.
You will also hear from the K&N supporters.
Your exhaust choice should be at least 4" to reduce all that extra exhaust temp you will be generating when you put in that chip or programmer.
Your wise in getting the gauges before the programming mods.
You will find your MPGs will take a jump after the chip or programmer. Then your going to have some FUN!
More views are on the way.
You will also hear from the K&N supporters.
Your exhaust choice should be at least 4" to reduce all that extra exhaust temp you will be generating when you put in that chip or programmer.
Your wise in getting the gauges before the programming mods.
You will find your MPGs will take a jump after the chip or programmer. Then your going to have some FUN!
More views are on the way.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,248
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From: Elverson, PA
Yea I'd also have to say that milage doesn't seen quite right. I'd make sure everything is right with your rig before you go throwing money at performance mods just for a milage gain. AND - not EVERYONE gains milage with a chip or tuner - so don't count on that. It all depends on your right foot - but even when I drive like a grandma - I bet I only gained 1/2 a mpg with my setup. IMO - you should be getting way better MPG stock....
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: West Texas
I know we get bad fuel mileage on the PSD's around here when the screen between the filter housing and the FPR gets all plugged up. Might need to check that if you have not already. I know I have never got that poor a mileage with my 95 MY even when I drove her hard pulling way to much weight. I everyone else here is right, you have something else going on with your setup.
Still getting the cat. and muffler deleted and improve the air filter is always a good idea on the older PSD's. I got a big improvement with just those along, let alone the chips and what they can help with. Look forward to reading how you come along with your truck.
Still getting the cat. and muffler deleted and improve the air filter is always a good idea on the older PSD's. I got a big improvement with just those along, let alone the chips and what they can help with. Look forward to reading how you come along with your truck.
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The truck is a stock X-cab, short bed 4X4. 285 tires. Not sure gear ratio. This is my first PSD, so any tips on "tune-up" tricks would be helpful. I change air and fuel filters every other oil change. I usually do not pull a load in OD, beacause unless I am going at least 70 mph (2000 rpm) or more, the truck seems to be very sluggish. At 70-80 mph, with the tach above 2000, in overdrive,it sails. When my trans started acting up, I slowed my speed to about 62 at 2400 in third. I know that hurt my mileage, but I have only been getting about 10 mpg empty. A mechanic asked what temp it runs and all I could say was 1/4 the way in normal (don't you just love C-H gauges) He suggested removing thermostat. Don't think I'll do that, but I will check and replace if ya'll think that could be a problem.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
No, do NOT remove the thermostat! Diesels need to be up to operating temperature to be at thier best. Ever notice how they are less powerful when cold? Want that all the time? You want a minimum of 190 degrees.
At this point all I can think of is possibly a slow fuel leak at the filter drain valve that only drips while the engine is running. It happens.
Another possibility is worn out injectors producing a poor spray pattern requiring extra fuel to get the same amount of energy delivered.
At this point all I can think of is possibly a slow fuel leak at the filter drain valve that only drips while the engine is running. It happens.
Another possibility is worn out injectors producing a poor spray pattern requiring extra fuel to get the same amount of energy delivered.
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From: Colorado Mountain Country
It's been said already, but the Tymar or Kwik intake setup is most certainly the most popular here. I think most of us will agree that this is the best first step to take with an exhaust upgrade. I went with the HOG Performance 4" turbo back Stainless Steel system, installed the muffler for maximum flow(other choice is sound muting) and I am really happy with it! Only do this if you like to hear that turbo spool up!!!!!!!!!! 
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I did not make myself clear when I mentioned removing thermostat. The mechanic thought my engine may not be getting hot enough.
I get the "jet engine sound" sometimes when pulling a load. I thought it was the fan clutch engaging. Could it be the EGPV opening and closing. Somtimes it pulses, but when it makes the noise - no power. When noise stops,the truck will take off.
I get the "jet engine sound" sometimes when pulling a load. I thought it was the fan clutch engaging. Could it be the EGPV opening and closing. Somtimes it pulses, but when it makes the noise - no power. When noise stops,the truck will take off.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
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Yes sir.....you pegged that one Buck......that's what it is. You can stop it from opening by removing the hose from the actuator, and plugging it. Most people just put it on one of the intake hose clamp screws. Fits real nice there....like it was made for it.
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From: George West, Texas....
OK, one more question !
Where is the actuator and which hose do I pull and plug ..
Living here in TX I don't need warm up... Speaking of which, do the glow plugs come on even though I don't wait for the light to go off ??
Thanks,,
Where is the actuator and which hose do I pull and plug ..
Living here in TX I don't need warm up... Speaking of which, do the glow plugs come on even though I don't wait for the light to go off ??
Thanks,,
Elder User
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When you open the hood.....it's on the right side of the turbo. It's got a rod that runs from that side to the exhaust side. If you look at the bottom of the exhaust side....you will see the rod and crank. There is only one hose running to the actuator.
The glow plugs come on as soon as you turn the key to "on"......normally.
The glow plugs come on as soon as you turn the key to "on"......normally.
