When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
leave it to banks to put a steel plug in the downpipe to become forever rusted in place...i wanted to install my pyrometer today but we are afraid to break something trying to get the plug out..let it sit the night w/some w/d and hopefully she moves 2morrow...anybody got any ideas?
thanks in advance
jon
My advice - leave the rusted plug in the DP and put the pyro sender pre-turbo. That's where the #'s will really be real time and will really help you protect the motor. Post turbo temps could be the same as pre-turbo, or as much as 400* different depending on all kinds of factors. Pre-turbo is really the way to go!!! It's not that big a deal to put it in pre-turbo - and you will be way farther ahead in the long run!!
ya i think i want to go in the pipe cause i dont pull anything ...just like to blow everyone away goin up hills...and ive been doin it for almost seven years w/out a pyrometer...just using my geusstimation for when to back off the throttle...im also going to get an intercooler and im just curiuos what if any the temp differance will be...truck runs better than ever btw w/the scmt ..my mileage went up significantly on the high performance setting even!...banks chip is on ebay if anyones interested...going cheap!
after leaving the rusted plug soaked all weekend in LPS (some sort of fancy liquid wrench) on the down pipe. the plug eased out nicly today for me to install my pyrometer and i love it!...warning though for those who get the BD Pyro, the cable from the sender booster to the gauge is kinda short and i was almost screwed...lucky i found another place to mount it...i would have drilled through the firewall closer to the hump had i done it over again..anyway so i cruised around to see what temps i would get nothing over 600 degress (42 degrees f outside) so i started playing around w/the newly installed SCMT to see what it could do and watch the temps...i noticed the kickdown was shorter than b4 so i started to run the auto tranny manually and felt like i was driving my old dodge 340...noticed i can take the rpm up higher than b4...so one thing led to another and wanted to see if i could get the rear wheels to spin...call me an idiot but ...so i held her down w/the brake but becuase i got a small popup camper on the back to much weight tires would not spin...but when i let the brake loose holy s**t..tires broke almost smoked for 30 feet with a launch similiar to my 3800 high stall in my old dart!...was crazy...anyway wont be doing that agian ...but should i be temped to drag someone that really needs to be put in there place...should i bother?...
If you still want to put it in the pipe, and can't get the wd to work, give it a shot of PB Blaster; you'll never ever use Wd-40 again!
Once you go PB.... you never go back!! stuff is awsome!! hey superrangerman... have you ever tried that "foaming cup" thing it showes on the side of the can??
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.