E40D swap
I've looked at gearvendors but I like the idea of the converter lock up. and the E40D keeps your RPM's lower when it's in OD at any given speed.
The clearance between the cab and the tranny is tight. I ended up grinding down the aluminum fins on and cutting off the large flanges on both sides of the bell housing. You will have less than a 1/4 inch between the top of the transmission and the cab.
I used the the crossmember and shift linkage from the donor truck('90). This way I just modified them as opposed to building them up from scratch. You can shorten the crossmember and massage it to fit.
The linkage requires a two rod set up from the newr vehicle because the selector is further back on the transmission. I shortend the vertical rod from the steering colomn and bent it a bit to mate with the cross shaft assembly that bolts to the transmission and the frame rail. This shaft also needed to be shortend. If I remember right, it lines up with at least one hole(maybe both) on the frame rail once you remove the frame rivets. The top cast threaded hole on the transmission that holds the cross shaft assembly also needs to be shaved down a little to clear the cab. Don't remove too much material or you won't be able to mount the cross shaft bracket.
Well worth the effort. I am still tinkering with the programming on the controller, always want to make it a bit better/different. The flexibility of programming two modes and customizing the way it shifts is great but takes time.
Good luck!
It depends on your tire size and rear end ratio but in my case at 60mph I'm at 1500rpm.
Especially since you can program different shift patterns.
Keep all the info coming. fp_5 any pictures?
Thanks,
Matt
This was all trial and error on my part , compounded by a torque converter that would not seat properly(thank god for FTE and the answer on that one). So I had the transmission in and out way too many times.
I am not aware of any contollers other than the Bauman TCS. Their website and litterature is pretty good for getting things installed and wired up. Programming, well,.. your on your own. The configurations included with the TCS are VERY performance oriented. I remember going for my first test run down the street and getting whiplash as it launched the truck into second gear. Kinda fun but painful after a while.
I was helped out a whole bunch by Javi2000 who had gone through the programming and shared what he learned. Check the transmission forum for controller info. This is what I did before I decided to put out that kind of money.Make sure you get a E4OD with the speed sensor in the tailsection/speedo drive. Later transmissions after '92? may not have drive gears machined into their output shafts because the speed sensor was in the diff.
There is a small vent/nipple on top of the E4OD that sticks up about a 1/2 inch. This proved to be a PITA. I had to take a ballpien hammer to the floor for clearance. The stock wiring harness had to be extended a few inches because it could not go over the top of the transmission as intended, no clearance, It had to be routed around the rear to mate with the solenoid pack.
I'll try to get some close ups of the visible parts installation and post them this weekend.
Later transmissions after '92? may not have drive gears machined into their output shafts because the speed sensor was in the diff.
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I don't know if this link will work but try it there is some good info at the Bauman site
http://www.becontrols.com/ourfaqs/e4...1.htm#12216740
Your best bet is to buy a donor truck like I did. For $500 I bought a '90 XLT with 50k on the rebuilt 302, more miles on the rebuilt transmission. I used all the mounts, harness, speed sensor etc for the swap. Plus ...I had the seat reupholstered and put in my '76, newer tires w/aluminum rims, a good battery, etc. I opted to run a carb so I junked the FI but you could swapp the entire wiring harness and EEC if you wanted too.
Let us know when you jump into this project.
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But keep us informed. I would love to have more than 3 gears for my thirsty 460.
My E40d had been rebuilt at some point by the original owner so I am assuming that it had all the required updates. When I first got going it shifted so hard I thought I was going to get whiplash. No problem chirping the tires from 1st to 2nd. I had to tame it down for daily driving. It runs great but I have yet to tow or carry a heavy load. With the kind of hp and torque your talking about I think the valve body kit would be a good idea along with any other mods that would help durability. I think it would depend a lot on how you drive. I'm guessing that you like to put your foot down alot? better to invest the extra cash up front. Also put in a decent cooler. I used a B&M Super cooler that has 3/4 npt fittings on it so everything is steel lines.
In my case I also replaced a worn out 360 which was awful on gas, less than 10-12 mpg. It's a little difficult to calculate milage since the speedometer is off(10mph@50), I can't be sure of actual distance travelled. There was a definite improvement. I just put smaller summer tires on the truck and the milage got a little better again. My truck has 3.00 rear end ratio and with 30x9.5x15(28.5 inch diameter) tires the smallblock has a hard time moving things along. In 4th gear at 60mph I was at about 1450rpm with the torque converter locked. Ok for cruising along but the truck was sluggish and couldn't handle hills in top gear . Kick it down to third and it was much happier. Eventually I want change the gear ratio to something like 3.73 and that should help my mileage. With the current LT235-75R15 that have a 27in diameter I estimate that I'm getting between 15-20mpg avg depending on how I drive.
The most challenging part is the programming. I did this in the late fall and I am still tinkering with the settings. You can change the shift points and the firmness of your shifts to whatever you like but it does take a lot of time.
Thanks for all the info here.
Matt



This sounds very do-able to me