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My new (to me) 2000 F250 7.3 PSD won't start. I thought I got a smokin deal on her but now??? What a sick feeling! The previous owner says he never had a starting problem (yeah right) and my neighbor says it sounds like a bad fuel pump. Any ideas and/or condolences???
the first thing to do is check all the fuses. dont just look at them use a meter.do you get a WTS (wait to start light). can you here the fuel run when you turn the key on. does the engine crank or you do you hear clicking, have you had any other problems or did it all of a sudden not start?
I got the wait to start light. I hear a buzzing noise when I turn the key on. The engine is cranking and smoke is coming out of the exhaust. I just got the truck Sunday and today is the first time it wouldn't start!?!?!?!? What do ya think?
sounds like maybe glow plug controller is out, or maybe glow plugs. How cold is it, and how fresh are the batteries? that would help a lot to know those two things. If your getting smoke out the tailpipe it most likely is getting fuel just probably not glow plugs I replaced my controller this year on my 2000 (when I looked at it one of the main wires had burned the end so check it
heres info on how to check the glowplug system.
Hard start/long crank--cold only:
This usually indicates a problem with the glow plug system.
Disconnect the Engine Oil Temp (EOT) sensor at the rear of the oil reservoir. This will cause the PCM to energize the glow plug relay for 2 minutes, and set a code. Turn the key to the run position and check for any voltage drop at the outlet side of the glow plug relay. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts during the glow plug cycle.
There is a history of burned and melted relay terminals and a couple of updated relays. Most recent part number is F7TZ-12B533-CA and can be identified by a gold-colored base.
If there is no voltage out of the relay, check for voltage in at the main terminal as well as key power and PCM-controlled ground at the two-wire connector. On 97 and newer vehicles inspect the bank circuit divider shunt for damage. If the relay tests fine test the glow plug resistance to ground at the valve cover connectors. The glow plug terminals are the outer two on 94-97, outer four on 98.5/99. Resistance should be 0.1-6 ohms depending on engine temp. A high reading could be the result of a spread or damaged Under Valve Cover harness or damaged valve cover gasket; re-check any high readings at the glow plug itself. Damaged UVC harnesses can be repaired with kits F7TZ-14489-AA for 97 and -BA for 94-96 trucks or replaced with F4TZ-9D930-K for 94-97 trucks or F81Z-9D930-AB on 98.5/99. Resitance from the glow plug relay to the valve cover connertors is 0-1 ohm. If no other faults are found, allow the vehicle to sit overnight. Before starting the engine, set the scan tool to monitor data stream and pick the EOT and Intake Air Temp sensors. The EOT and IAT should be within five degrees of each other. Next, remove the level-check plug from the HP oil pump reservoir and check the oil temperature with a thermometer to verify the EOT reading. If the EOT reading is higher than ambient (IAT) temperature, the PCM may be activating the glow plugs for too short a time, or not at all. If the problem only occurs at high altitude, and there is no glow plug system failures, the BARO sensor is most likley at fault.
Some 97 trucks have experienced a check engine light on after starting with Glow Plug Monitor circuit codes P1391, P1393, P1395 and P1396. After checking the glow plugs and the harnesses as in the above procedure, install a breakout box and check the GPM circuit to the PCM--GPML, LH bank terminal to pin 34; GPMR, RH bank terminal to pin 9; GPMH, relay output terminal to pin 8.
Dang! Thanks brother...wish I had you for a neighbor LOL
It is going to a shop here locally in the am...when I described the problem to him over the phone he said "no big deal, 1 hour labor and a new glow plug or two"
Hope he's right and how much should I expect to pay for a glow plug?
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