steering coupler

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Apr 10, 2005 | 09:39 PM

Dr. Lou

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steering coupler

Greetings all,

I'm new to the forum and to the site. I am restoring a 71 f100 custom. Can anyone give me a general idea of what all I need to do to replace the coupler on the steering column? Do I have to remove the gear box? Also, I want to dual the exhaust, but I've seen in catalogues exhaust systems that say "not for camper special." Does camper special mean the long bed?

Thanks for all your help. I hope to have pictures posted soon.

doc

Apr 10, 2005 | 10:44 PM

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

Welcome to the forum, there's alot of knowledge from many members on this forum. Camper Specials were long beds only. Your "rag joint" can be replaced by pulling up the steering column a little or by unbolting the three bolts that hold the steering box on the frame. Be sure to buy a quality joint like Ford's, not cheap but they last longer. Make sure after the joint is in to not have the steering shaft pull up or push down on the joint. Check the alignment, you may have to readjust the column pate on the firewall. Cab bushings over the years may sag and cause the steering shaft and box shaft to misalign. This will put a strain on the steering box and steering shaft bearing. If an auto check the shift linkage also. Welcome.
Carl....=o&o>....

Apr 11, 2005 | 12:08 AM

WillyB

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From: Near Fresno, California

Some CS had an extra stabilizer bar installed that causes interference with headers and dual exhaust (mine doesn't), and, of course, if you have the factory installed extra gas tank you can not route the exhaust between the left frame rail and the tranny.

Apr 11, 2005 | 01:15 AM

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

I was lucky as the 68 CS has 18 gallon saddle tanks outside the frame, 19 gallon cab tank, no sway bar so headers X and duel exhaust was easy. Almost as it took three weeks to fabricate custom exhaust not counting ceranic coating.

Carl....=o&o>....

Apr 11, 2005 | 01:37 AM

WillyB

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From: Near Fresno, California

OOPs, not all long beds were CS (camper specials) but all CS were long beds - you should have badges if yours is, or you can check your build list.

Apr 11, 2005 | 10:00 PM

Dr. Lou

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I appreciate the feedback. Very helpful. I got the three bolts off the steering box, but that didn't give me enough wiggle room. I tried to disconnect it down at the rod, but couldn't break the bolt after I took the pin out. Didn't have much luck loostening the steering column either. I think I need to go back and completely remove the column plate. I only loostened it. If you don't mind me asking another question, do I need to by a special tool to remove the steering wheel after I remove the center bolt?

Thanks again.

Apr 11, 2005 | 11:07 PM

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

Yes you need a "cheapo" wheel puller or make one out of bar stock. Put the nut back on a few threads, pull up on the wheel like 60-80 pounds rocking left and right. You might get lucky and the wheel may pull loose. The nut prevents you eating the wheel when it comes loose. If not a puller is needed, any parts store item. Did you remove the two nuts behind the steering shaft flange? Also the pinch bolt on the joint pinching the steering box shaft must be completely removed. Don't worry about the pitman arm and steering linkage as you can replace the joint with the box unbolted only. You should adjust the steering column up and down last to prevent pressure on the joint as well as the two shaft alignments with the firewall plate and strap. This is the two bolts under the dash on the slotted cloumn plate and the firewall suport and clamp.

Carl....=o&o....