Hi all.
i just wanted to start a post on tips and tricks anyone may have .
specifically on 73-79 trucks.

there are probably a lot of people that have something to share.something new 73 - 79 owners might not know.

like rear glass from 73 to 96 fits.
Or that seats from up to a 96 are bolt ins

just want to pick all your brains really

 

How about Chevy front 4x4 axle shafts will fit the Fords.

 

Now thats what i am talking about.
Lets keep them comeing

 

dang! beat me to the seats!

turn signal lenses from 80's econoline vans fit our pickups, but are clear instead of amber.

I will probably think of more...

 

tail light lenses from 75-92 econoline vans work in our trucks as well.
also the locking hood latch from these same vans are 100% interchangeable with the 73-79 locking hood latch, the only problem is the length of the cable is too short on the vans...

 

TIP: Tranny Tailshaft rear motor mount through bolts should not be tightened more than 10-15 Ft. Lb. This mount needs to "flex" and pivot. Use a grade 8 through bolt with a Ny-Loc nut.

TRICK: To keep from losing your mind while trying to keep a torque converter in place while you're lining up an automatic transmission to the engine, use a 3/4" or 11/16" combination wrench lightly bolted through the lower transmission case mounting hole (closed end part of the wrench) with the open end pushing up against the torqe converter. When you're satisfied with the line-up and just before the gap beteween the engine and transmission closes up, remove the wrench. One more push and, yee-ha, it's in.

J.

 

The hood latch in grille is adjustable, adjust it and amaze your friends when you can actually "pop" your hood, give it lots of lube after adjustment. I hate seing these trucks with the lever bent halfway over cause the idiots before me didn't know how to care for something properly, just remove 2 bolts and bend handle straight with hammer and bench vise, lube, paint handle, reinstall properly, done!

when you first get the truck replace all the old vacuum lines with new, it felt liked I gained 30HP just from better vacuum!!! and my rpms dropped too! make sure to replace one at a time so you don't mess up the routing.

when you first get the truck:
change out the air filter, pcv filter, fuel filter, power steering filter if equipped, check/replace plugs and wires, replace cap & rotor or check/adjust/replace points, check/adjust timing, make sure you have good ground wires to bat and alt, block to frame, and body and frame. replace oil & oil filter and check trans fluid level. do that and have fun and get to know your truck and you might find something you misssed before you bought it.
It does make a performance difference, response is crisper and mileage is better.

In the inside on my two tone jade green truck, I changed to tan interior, but for the door panels I put the dark green armrests on the tan panels, looks sharp and slick and better than stock using stock pieces, simple & looks NICE!!! have to remove door panel and on back of panel undo two screws holding armrest to panel

I have bucket seats from a 83 datsun Z or something(free from friend), me & dad welded a custom frame for them and they look sharp! tan leather 4-way mechanically adjustable, I love lumbar support! I wanted head rests was the main reason, but I like how they keep me from sliding in the corners!!

Use anti-seize compound on any bolt or screw that is exposed to the elements that you have to remove and replace.

If you want to use clear turn signal lenses in front, buy some amber bulbs to go inside of them so you are still legal, not many people like a glaring strobe light to distract them.

lube/grease your hood hinges, made a world of difference on mine.

EVERYTIME you wash your truck, wash out the hidden lip on the rear wheelwells so they DO NOT RUST OUT!

don't use front chrome bumper as step to work in eng bay, you will scratch it, and it will be noticeable

you can get chrome plated(shiny) door lock pulls off of 73-96 Ford trucks and probably vans too

haven't tried it yet, but I was thinking about getting the bigger sun visors out of a van for my truck

the 73-79 doors have a stock 6 inch round speaker location hidden behind the panel, look before you cut!!! It ticks me off everytime I see one in a wrecker, a 6" speaker below the panel, I pull the panel to find an empty stock hole. They ruined a door cause they didn't look behind the panel. Easier to replace/fix a panel then weld a hole in the door!!!!!!!!!!

just because it is a 30 year old truck doesn't mean your friends should slam the doors with all their might!!! politely tell them not to do that, or let them walk home from the mall or wherever.

I repositioned where my window crank handle rests when closed and open so my knee can rest comfortably against the door panel.

If you look carefully in the wrecking yards you can find the armrest/handle piece, that looks like a strange canoe when removed, in plastic or metal, the plastic ones break if abused, the metal ones don't and you can paint them easily.

make sure to use that round opaque plastic spacer between the door panel and the window crank handle, it makes rolling down/up the window a little easier and doesn't damage the panel(and the spring between panel and door cuts down rattles, if equipped)

there are 9 clips holding the panel to the door, one screw on the door open handle, one screw on the window crank handle, two screws in the armrest/pull, and then the door panel comes off

the headliner is ridicuously easy to get out to replace or customize

try to find chrome headliner strips in wrecking yards, they look better IMHO

I think that plastic cover piece at each end of the benchseat that breaks often is interchangeable 73-96

for the benchseat itself bolting in, you have to use your 73-79 seat mounts/rails on the 80-96 benches, the rails easily unbolt from all 73-96 benchseats

my driveshaft is greaseable, check if yours is if you hear a clunk, and even if you don't

I used the hood to cowl rubber weatherstripping off of a mid80s ford van in my beater truck but I had to drill 2 holes for it to fit, be careful when removing, it breaks easily.

use anti-seize on your lugnuts

a lockable glovebox is a nice thing to have, search the wreckers and have a key made at a locksmiths place, doesnt cost too much when you bring the lock to them

clean the radio antenna for a better reception - it relly does work! just use something that doesn't leave a residue behind

theres a little tab on the bottom of the plastic guage/heater/radio surround that I always forget to pop in before I put the 1st screw in place and have to redo it

I'm done for now, enjoy!

 

wow, that was like, long. but some really great info

 

Not all steering wheels that FIT on our trucks will actually operate the horn and cancel the turn signals. Caveat Emptor...

 

When installing an aftermarket stereo, don't run wires over to the fuse box. Use a male spade terminal in the factory radio connector for switched power. The connector for the lighter harness is just to the right, and has open spots for your constant 12v wire.

I plan on using the other side of the radio connector, which comes on with the dash lights, for guage lights. This avoids tapping into wires or the headlight switch.

 

Just because you have a cracked grille or a chunk missing out of one, doesn't mean you have to run out and buy a new one(or half of one). When you remove the damaged grille see how much you can move the crack, probably not much. Just get some duct tape and line up the crack and then tape it straight. Flip the grille over so you can see the back of it, its kinda hollow. You want to buy some fibreglass that you mix up, so you can pour it into that kinda hollow space to fix the crack, but you might want to rough up the surface a little first, and its probably good to use some mesh in there too. Wait for it dry a day or two depending on how much you use(the guy that told me this said he just fills them to the top)and take the duct tape off. If you have an obvious line where the crack was, just sand the crack to open it a little and spread some fibreglass over the area and when dry go ahead and sand it and paint it.

The same applies if you have a chunk misssing from it, just make a little form of cardboard, then duct tape the form to the grille and fill from behind.

-EDIT- More suggestions:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s....php?&t=417087

 

The 351C/M/400 takes a special thermostat with a kind of collar around it. A 192-5°F thermostat is the one to use. Use only the Cooper-Robertshaw thermostat. This has been discussed many times in the 335 series engine forum.

 

The fuel pump will interchange with the 351W not the 351M/ 400 motor, and I think the 302-351W, 351M/400 take different starter's.

 

A 76 2wd long wheel base, 133 inches, cab and bed will fit with no problems to a 79 f 350 4wd, all the holes are the same, and you'll keep the rear gas tank like in the 79. you will just need to cut the hole for the manual transmission thats all ready marked from the factory and will take like 15 minutes to cut and drill and install the 4x4 tranny hump.
also u will need to replace the steering column and the pedals assembly if you are going from an auto to a manual like i did.

the electrical system is compatible with them, I reused all the 76 250 2wd 460/c6 wires
in the 79 350 4wd 400/t 18-205,

the sliding spare wheel carrier in the 2wd is a bolt on on a 79 78, 4x4 the holes are pre drilled,

hi boy front springs will bolt on a low boy giving the truck the same stance, using the rear block will make the 78 79 as tall as a hi boy.

 

[QUOTE=ranger429]The fuel pump will interchange with the 351W not the 351M/ 400 motor, and I think the 302-351W, 351M/400 take different starter's.


I'm using a starter from a 351M on my 302 right now everyday, and the 351W is just a taller 302 so starter will fit on there too